Stay overnight in Aguas Calientes and get the first bus up the mountain in the morning (5.30am). It really is worth being there for sunrise and before the hoards arrive. Fantastic sight. Expect to be wowed and want to stay all day.

Take water with you as they don't stop you taking it in and you will need it up there. The cafe sells water but at vastly hiked costs. Just remember to take your rubbish home with you.

Up a mountain!

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Take a taxi up to Tambo Machay and then walk down back to Cuzco through all the ruins to end up by the big statue.

You don't need a guide - it'll take you all day - and there's food stalls on the way. We sheltered from the midday sun in one and drank beer and watched football.

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Do you remember seeing a green finger-like mountain in the background of most Machu Picchu pictures? The mountain is Huayna Picchu (also called Wayna Picchu) and there are stairs going right to the top of it. If you want an alternative view of the famous Inca site, climbing up is a must.

The climb takes about an hour but the view will stay in your mind for the rest of your life. The Incas built their cities in the shapes of different animals. Look down at the condor shape of Machu Picchu, and don't forget to bring a packed lunch and some water.

Nearest station Aguas Calientes. Stay overnight in Aguas Calientes to allow more time than on an average day-trip from Cuzco.

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One of many companies providing guided tours and equipment for the Inca trail to Machu Picchu. The guides were brilliant - helpful, friendly, knowledgable and introduced us to our porters.

The chef and the food were first class - better than in any resaurant in Peru.

enigmaperu.com

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Truly mystical...

More information on my blog: windowtoablueplanet.blogspot.com/2005_11_01_windowtoablueplanet_archive.html

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A symbol of the clash between the Incas and the Spaniards, Qoricancaha was once the religious centre for the Incas and legend has it that the “Court of Gold” was so named because the area was literally covered in the stuff when the conquistadors arrived. Imagine what happened next.

The Spaniards actually built a church on top of the old walls (Santo Domingo), but when an earthquake brought some of the European-engineered walls crashing down, there stood the famous Inca stonework intact underneath.

A truncated Temple of the Sun at one end of the church overlooks a grassy area, below which is an interesting little museum displaying skulls that were deformed by Inca surgeons. A must, hence the removal of Qoricancha from the Cuzco Tourist Ticket...

Hours: Monday-Saturday, 8:30 am – 5:30 pm; Sunday 2-5 pm;
Plaza Santo Domingo;
tel: 51 84 222-071;
Prices: Not included in Tourist Ticket. Costs S/6 for adults, S/3 for students

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This tiny café offers one of the best views in Cuzco, great coffees and enormous juices. If you can secure one of the seats outside, you get to look past the nearby San Blas Church and down onto the red roofs of the city while enjoying the sun and a latte. Of course you will be asked to invest in cigarettes, paintings, postcards and so on, but it’s worth putting up with.

Above the waterfall, Plaza San Blas;
Tandapata 684, Plaza San Blas

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One of the best things to do in Cuzco is to grab (it may involve inflicting minor flesh wounds) a table in one of the balcony cafes overlooking the Plaza de Armas, order a Pisco Sour and just take in the view. The Cathedral, La Compania, San Blas, laughing local children harassing tourists in quick-dry clothing … what more could you ask for?

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