Use taxis to get you to the start of hikes. Ask the driver and get them to drop you at the top of the pass out of the valley and walk back down through the fields.

Alternatively, they'll take you up to the start of the hikes (see travel guides) and will wait for you as long as it takes until you come back down again. Take food and water, we gave our driver some too - and don't pay until you get back. All for a few dollars.

You can also catch collectivos - we did that but had to hitch back down from a one-day hike on a tour bus full of happy Peruvians who'd been on a day trip up into the lakes.

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