Peru’s capital was built by Francisco Pizarro in 1535. Originally dubbed the City of Kings, it was home to South America’s first university and a jewel in the Spanish crown.

But recently Lima has become known more for its traffic congestion, overpopulation (one third of Peru’s 27 million people live there), crime and air pollution than for its colonial legacy.

The extremity of Lima’s poverty is obvious in the shantytowns – or “pueblos jovenes” – that ring the city. The towns arose mainly due to the flight of country people to the city to escape the bloodshed between Marxist rebels and militia in the nineties. While conditions are slowly improving, many of these settlements still go without electricity or running water.

Most of the Old City was destroyed by an earthquake in 1746, which killed over 4,000 and left only a few buildings intact.

Then there’s the weather. The sun may always shine on TV, but it never shines in Lima. The dreary smog is year-round.

Despite all this, there is much to enjoy in Lima. Most travellers heading to Cuzco will end up spending at least 24 hours in the capital, so why not make the most of it? Lima boasts Peru’s best museums, restaurants and shopping. Much of the colonial centre has been refurbished, and locals are beginning to return to the heart of the city. The districts of Miraflores and Barranco – situated on cliffs overlooking the ocean – are packed with great shops, hotels and eateries filled with fashionably turned-out Limenos.

Idea for new Lima tourist board slogan: Lima: worth a look.