Beautiful, rustic tavern, still running after all these years by a number of old Limenos, in the beautiful Pueblo Libre district, surrounded by the gorgeous colonial homes of the colonial Spanish elite, daubed in irridescent colour. Typical Peruvian dishes offered to a high standard, particularly recommend papa rellena: a jacket potato filled with mashed potato, egg, meat and olives. Superb.
Buried in the back streets of suburban Lima, surrounded by faceless modern office blocks, lies a rich reward for the intrepid seafood lover.
A cheap painted sign over a metal door leads into the less-than-salubrious interior of the restaurant. But once you get over the decor (or lack of) you’ll notice that the place is packed with locals – a sure sign that the food is what matters there. And it does.
Scallops, crab, the freshest of fish, Pisco, and the ceviche...a hidden treasure.
Address: Leonardo Da Vinci 505 (On the corner of Marie Curie 108),
Urb. La Calera, La Merced, Surquillo.
Telephone: (51-1) 271-6455 / 9756-7394
I strongly recommend this place if you are in Lima. You will find everything here with the bonus of having a magnificent view of the Pacific Ocean in front of you: excellent restaurants, cool bars, clubs, cinemas, shops and places to play and have a good time!
It is located at the end of Larco Avenue in the upscale Miraflores district.
A nice restaurant with good food and good service, nice steak + lyonnese potatoes for $10, and everything else is cheaper than that. Great choice of main dishes, desserts, sandwiches and drinks. Friendly waiters.
In Miraflores, Larco Mar, end of 2nd floor row, if you sit outside you get a nice view of the sea.
Really, there is other food in Miraflores other than pizza.
Once place to try is Aventuras Marinas. They are one of the few cheapy local places that stay open until 9pm-ish. Especially good is the Ceviche Mixto, and the Aquaditas, a heady soup made with coriander and mixed seafood.
One more recommendation is the most perfect little lunch place at 180 Alcoflores (parallel to Av La Paz). It has no name, just a menu outside with 4 starters and 6 main courses at 6 Sol for the full meal, plus complementary lemongrass drink (the name escapes me). The food tastes like home cooking, and they use real stock for their soups and sauces. Dishes change daily, but don’t change much, so expect soups as starters and chicken, rice, and bean dishes for mains.
This is a gem of a place that is always packed by 1:30pm, so get there just after 12 if you can.
Aventuras Marinas is at 130 Jr. Manuel Bonilla, just round the corner from Pizza Hut.
In an area heavy with pizza competition, this little place is a slice of the unusual. Excellent pizza and garlic bread, but it’s the décor that makes it stand out – the walls are covered in graffiti. Fully sanctioned by the owners, customers have recorded their thoughts for posterity, spidery handwriting reaching all the way to the ceiling. It makes for interesting reading as you enjoy your pizza.
On the little street behind the Virgen Milagrosa Church next to Kennedy Park, Miraflores.
A kind of Shangri-la for fast food lovers, an oasis of pepperoni and mozzarella in a desert of rice. An entire street dedicated to the worship of deep-dish and stuffed crust, located just two blocks from the buzzing Ovalo at the heart of the plush district of Miraflores. Don’t waste time comparing menus – they have whatever you want, as long as you want pizza, so just tuck in.
Opposite Kennedy Park, Miraflores.
Location, location, location – the Rosa Nautica has it in spades. Perhaps there are restaurants serving better food in Lima. But nowhere else comes close as a culinary event. At the end of a long pier that juts out into the Pacific Ocean, waves crashing around its pillars, the Rosa Nautica is the ultimate in sea-view dining experiences. And the food ... incredibly fresh seafood, sinful desserts ... all washed down with Pisco Sours. Many on a traveller’s budge will balk at the prices, but by the standards of most cities it is incredibly reasonable. Take one look at where you’re sitting...
Life in Lima exists because of and for the ocean. Limeños are ever so aware of the importance of the Pacific Ocean in their lives. Seafood, therefore, is the most important of the many bonds than bring us and the sea together.
Take your time. Don't jump to it right away. Put aside a whole afternoon to sample (unfortunately only a fraction of) our seafood. Head out to a cevichería around lunch. Order a few dishes to share with your party; this is the best way.
Some of the dishes you might want to taste:
Ceviche - white fish cooked in lime juice (the acid cooks it) with corn and sweet potato on the side and onions. There are mixed ceviches, octopus ceviche, langostine ceviche, etc.
Tiradito - ceviche with no onions.
Chicharron (of fish or calamari) - deep fried usually surved with yuca and tartar sauce.
Causa rellena (with tuna, crab, langostines) -a pionono made of yellow potato mash and avocado filling.
Jalea -huge mixture of chicharron.
Choros a la chalaca - muscles with corn, onion and chili sauce (granted they don't look good but are delicious).
Conchitas a la parmesana -scallops on their shells oven cooked with cheese and butter (and a pinch of lime juice); amazing!
Arroz con Mariscos - this is the most crucial test for any cevicheria. If they do a good 'Arroz con Mariscales' then then you are bound to get a great taste of Peruvian seafood. This is rice with seafood. Give it a try!
Each place will have its own version of each one of these dishes. And if you go elsewhere in the coast you'll get the local variations as well.
Just ask for a good cebicheria.
Quite a few in Chorrillos; El segundo Muelle is a good one; there is a new place in La Mar in Miraflores; anotherone just opposite where they only sell Causas (brilliant!); La Rana Verde in El Callao is one of the very best.
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