Peru
Beautiful, rustic tavern, still running after all these years by a number of old Limenos, in the beautiful Pueblo Libre district, surrounded by the gorgeous colonial homes of the colonial Spanish elite, daubed in irridescent colour. Typical Peruvian dishes offered to a high standard, particularly recommend papa rellena: a jacket potato filled with mashed potato, egg, meat and olives. Superb.
Taverna Quierolo, corner of Avenidas Vivanco and San Martin, Pueblo Libre, Lima.
antiguatabernaqueirolo.com/index.html
+51 1 4600441
Google map: bit.ly/obmd1m
Many people get out of Lima as soon as possible, fearful of its poor reputation. Yes, Lima is big, dirty, grey-skied, and you need to keep your wits about you. But if you don't see anything of this capital city of 8 million people, you're missing out on an important part of Peru.
So don't be scared: Check out the colonial architecture around the Plaza de Armas, eat ceviche by the sea in Barranco, sit and enjoy a Pisco sour in the cafes around Parque Kennedy, and visit museums like the Museo de la Nacion for the best introduction to the archaeological sites you'll be visiting later in your trip.
Museo de la Nacion, Av. Javier Prado Este 2465 - San Borja. Teléfono: 476-9933 anexo 229 / 231
e-mail: museodelanacion@inc.gob.pe
Open: Tues-Sun 9-6
Not one for the claustrophobic or faint of heart, a walk through the narrow, eerie catacombs deep in the belly of the San Francisco Monastery is hard to forget. They were once used as a cemetery for the city, and subterranean pits still contain the skulls and bones of about 200,000 people. If being underground in low tunnels in a city known for seismic activity with enough bones to make a reasonable-sized dinosaur is not your thing, there’s plenty to see at street level too.
The yellow Moorish-influenced church photographs well, and the mosaic-lined courtyards and an old library Dan Brown would feel at home in make a guided tour worthwhile. But it’s the oppressive nature of the catacombs that sticks in your mind after you leave. Be warned.
Address: Plaza de San Francisco (between Lampa and Ancash), a short walk from the Plaza Mayor; tel: 51 1 427 1381; guides in English and Spanish
Sitting on the Plaza Mayor in Lima’s Old Town, the cathedral is impressive from the outside and interesting within. Here you can see the mausoleum that contains the bones of the original conquistador and founder of the city, Francisco Pizarro, along with a huge, heroic mosaic depicting him in messianic terms. The exquisitely carved choir and general opulence do jar in such a poor country. A relic of Spanish legacy that may not be politically correct, the cathedral shows how it used to be.
Plaza Mayor, Historic Centre, Lima
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