Last year, my aunt and I visited Krakow to do our Christmas shopping. While there, we stayed just off the main market square in a neat little hostel. Every morning we were awoken to the smell of fresh food coming from the market below. It was the perfect place to find homemade, tasty foods and drinks for the family. I bought everything from honey, homemade wine to delicious handmade biscuits. It was perfect. The snowy landscape made the hot foods even better, as it warmed you from the inside out. I enjoyed it so much I'm hoping to go back next year.

The Rynek, Market Square, Old Town
Google map: bit.ly/v0TgXw

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Last December I took my teenage niece to Krakow. For under £100 we had three nights in a clean, warm, twin room with our own bathroom. Even breakfast was included; it was pretty basic but who cared? We were surrounded by cheap and wonderful eateries and fun bars. Our hostel (better than hotels for meeting other young people) overlooked Rynek Główny, Europe’s largest medieval town square, with its massive underground museum (advance booking recommended) and a lovely Xmas market. Between us we bought loads of interesting presents: parents, boyfriend, grandparents, toddlers, school friends. There was some rubbishy tat, but not much, and Kay still had change from her Saturday job money. And on one day we went to Auschwitz. The tour was very informative and, of course, harrowing. It certainly put the commercial pressures of Christmas into perspective and, as Kay put it: “Made me so grateful to be born when I was, into the life I have.”

mhk.pl/oddzialy/podziemia_rynku (the Underground Museum)
www.hostelrynek7.pl/en_,hostel.php (Hostel Rynek7)

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The Wieliczka Salt Mine is only 80 km from Krakow and a great experience. The mine has been producing salt since the 1200s and was the source of one-third of Poland's total income under King Kazimierz the Great. In the 1800s the miners started creating sculptures and even carved the largest among underground chapels carved in rock salt and embellished with salty sculptures, salt chandeliers and bas-reliefs. There are over 200 miles of tunnels and chambers that are currently maintained by former miners. The tour inside the mine is informative and fun. Also, if you suffer from asthma or breathing problems (like me) you will love being down there as the air in the mine contains large quantities of sodium chloride, magnesium and calcium ions which help control and improve the respiratory system. This is also the reason why the salt mine has its own Underground Rehabilitation and Respiratory Treatment Camp.

Daniłowicza Street 10, 32-020 Kraków, Poland
+48 12 278 73 75
Google map: bit.ly/qSBb3k
The Wieliczka Salt Mine is only 80 km from Krakow. There are organised tours which take you there or you can catch a local bus www.krakow-info.com/wielicz.htm

The Respiratory Rehabilitation Camp has its own website: www.kopalnia.pl

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A legendary cave found hidden in the western slope of Wawel Hill, where visitors can journey down a tight, spiral staircase into the 81m cavernous dragon's den below. Children and adults alike will enjoy the rich 12th century story and history attached to the cave and, better yet, the metal sculpture of the dragon itself that breathes fire every few minutes.

www.wawel.krakow.pl
Zamek Wawel 5, Kraków, Poland
+48 12 422 51 55 ext. 219
Google map: bit.ly/qQ2QKu

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Founded in 1945 The Groteska Puppet, Mask and Actor Theatre in Cracow, is one of the earliest puppet theatres in Poland. Every one of its art directors had a clear vision of creating the best quality puppet theatre in the country. It really worked and now, after more than 60 years the Groteska Theatre gives around 450 performances a year with an audience of more than 100,000 people. Its productions are not only for children, there are also two stages for adults: one with pieces by Sophocles, Voltaire and Bulhakow just to name a few, and one for concerts, dance performances and cabarets with their most famous Reality Shopka Szol played usually in February. There is also lot of activities and workshops for children, young people and teachers.
The theatre runs an annual Great Dragon Parade, one of them was made in cooperation with Wales, Ireland, Portugal and Czech Republic as a part of Myths and Legends of Europe Festival in 2007. There are Dragon Family Picnics held on the banks of Vistula River and lots of events for the youngest.
The Groteska Theatre is world famous and it is awarded on many theatre festivals around the world and it can be easily called the modern cultural centre.
It is in the walking distance from Main Square and I would strongly recommend to visit it. Their work is really worth seeing and admiring not only by people who love puppets.

www.groteska.pl/english.php
2 Skarbowa Street, 31-121 Cracow, Poland
+48 12 633 48 22
Google map: bit.ly/pAwiSn

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A charming restaurant with superb food great service and Reasonable prices. It also has a court yard that you can sit out in and have your meal - very nice!

www.aperitif.com.pl/
Sienna 9, 31-000 Kraków, Poland
+48 12 432 33 33
Google map: bit.ly/nEK2DE

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Prefect place to stay on a tight budget. We spent four nights in August. Very good location at Plac Nowy, center of Krakow's Kazimierz. Friendly atmosphere, clean basic rooms, plenty of showers and toilets. Lot of hot water. Kitchen well equipped, breakfast rather basic but very tasty. Staff, specially Karolina very helpful, she gave us very good tips where to eat or what to see. Location is perfect for exploring Krakow, not too commercial area plenty of cheap places to eat. We recommend for all.

www.balloonhostel.pl
ul. Estery 12, 31-151 Kraków
+48 12 421 07 59
Google map: bit.ly/ofByRF

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For the best zapiekanka (called the Polish pizza - half a baguette, covered with cheese and any number of variety of toppings) visit this place in the fascinating and historic old Jewish quarter of Krakow (Kazimierz). Set in the middle of the square, the queues will tell you that you have chosen well and the cheap delicious take away, will keep you filled and satisfied for a long time.

+48 12 429 37 54
Plac Nowy 4, Krakow
Google map: bit.ly/hPgPuJ

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I don't recommend going to Auschwitz unless you're prepared. When I visited with my aunt, I was very under prepared. We watched a video on the coach up there, which helped a little in my understanding of the camp itself. I hadn't done it in school so I wasn't entirely sound with what happened in WWII regarding the concentration camps.
I stepped off the bus into thick snow as it was a week before Christmas. Even in my four layers I was still freezing. Everything is very bleak in the first camp. Although the buildings are large red brick and very neatly arranged, everything seemed dead.
In Auschwitz, you can feel the silence. Nothing really moves. Even when my aunt would stumble in the snow or mutter something under her breath, I couldn't pay any attention. It was like something was stopping me from seeing this place in the 21st Century.
I'm seventeen with blonde hair and blue eyes. I'm not religious, I have no serious disorders and am pretty normal I suppose. My aunt is gay and very openly so. Standing next to her, realizing that I would never had been considered for a place like this where she would have been without question made me feel hideous.
Going to the Birkenau camp was actually a lot easier than Auschwitz. The landscape is so open and freeing that I couldn't quite get my head around the awful things that happened there.
To anyone going to visit the camps, I highly recommend taking a tour. It is a lot less stressful, you get every single piece of information you could possibly take in and they are very professional.
Also, I think it's best to go in the winter. A summer trip would be no where near as moving than standing beneath the entrance, freezing cold realizing that this was the last thing many people ever felt.

en.auschwitz.org.pl/m/
+48 33 844 8100
Google map: bit.ly/fPTbjI

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Beautiful, cozy vegetarian restaurant with a candlelit, cozy atmosphere. You can relax in the stunning interior, while listening to the score from Amelie (well, when I was there anyway). The food is delicious and you get traditional Polish food, vegetarian style! A real treasure!

Wolnica Square 7, Kraków, Małopolska (30-061) (at Krakowska St)
www.cafemlynek.pl‎
+48 124306202
Google map: bit.ly/ffjt0b

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Hala Targowa is a bit off the beaten track in Krakow - I found it by getting lost - but is a genuine market for locals, piled up with produce from nearby farms, and also cheap. I bought 1kg of succulent strawberries for 2zl last summer. Wonderful fruit and veg in mouthwatering displays, as well as flowers with cheese, bread and meat to the side. There's also haberdashery, clothes etc. A short walk away is where pigeon and rabbit swapping goes on in another small market at Plac Nowy twice a week: you have to get up early but it's worth it.

Hala Targowa is to the south-east of Wawel Castle on Grzegorzecka street close to the viaduct. Plac Nowy is in the Jewish Kazimierz district.
Google map: bit.ly/glfOSv

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Kazimierz is the old Jewish quarter of Krakow. With its labyrinthine streets and serene synagogues, the area evokes a blend of melancholy and hope - an inspiring literary place. Hidden behind the crumbling facades of pre-war architecture are some of the city's most exquisite bars and restaurants. Of particular note, is the Alef, a kosher restaurant that was regularly frequented by Steven Speilberg during the making of Schindler's List. A traditional band plays Klezmer music whilst Borscht is served piping hot. The decor captures a place and time history has almost forgotten. A place to escape and to reflect, Kazimierz is a truly inspirational place.

Alef Restaurant, Szeroka 17, Kazimierz
Kraków, Poland
www.alef.pl/
+48 12 424 31 31
Google map: bit.ly/fBi08K

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Tucked away down a side street on the east side of Krakow is ‘Massolit Books and Cafe’. If you ever wanted your favourite second hand bookshop to have comfy sofa’s, good coffee and excellent cake here it is. Although I don’t read much at home, I love to read authors of the country I’m visiting but it’s not always easy to find them translated. Here you can. Could take you an hour, could take you all morning, the sun gently filtering through the blinds.

Ul. Felicjanek 4, 31-104 Kraków
+12 432 41 50
www.massolit.com
Google map: bit.ly/c3p231

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Just got back from Krakow and stumbled upon a great way to get from airport into the centre. As you come out of the airport you'll see a bus stop to your right, from there take the 292 bus to the main train station (3 Ztls, make sure you have change, the ticket machine doesn't take notes) but get off at the Craovia hotel/casino. This takes about 25 minutes. From here you are only about 5 minutes from the Ibis hotel (Sykomil 2 street) and from the hotel it's not a 10-minute to the centre. We got the bus to the main station, then paid 25ztls for a taxi that dropped us off virtually where the bus had taken us.

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Avoid the organised trips (99 -160 pln). If you do want to go independently, it is 65 plns, plus 10 for taking photos in a poor light. The local 304 bus from Krakow stops outside. You have to go down hundreds of stairs to a depth of 64metres just to start - many more steps ahead! Be prepared for light, long, boring tunnels. Vastly overcrowded. The only highlights were a chapel and a hall with chandeliers. Unlit densely packed miners' lifts back to top. Not for the claustrophic or disabled persons. There are loads of great attractions in Krakow. Put this at the bottom of your list!

Wieliczka salt mines,
12 km south east of Krakow.
Jana Mikołaja Daniłowicza 10, 32-020 Kraków, Polska‎ - 12 278 73 75‎
www.krakow-info.com/wielicz.htm

Google map: tinyurl.com/32wd88o

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Rich collection of Polish peasant culture and crafts, wonderfully displayed. This is a treasure trove of colourful wonders. Rooms with authentic furniture and costumes. Highly recommended and free entrance.

Krakowska 46, 31-066 Krakow, Poland‎ - 12 430 60 23
Tram no 6, 3,8,10,36,38,40.
also can get 304 or 502 bus.

www.cracow-life.com/culture/culture_details/666-Ethnographic_Museum

Google map: tinyurl.com/39h99bw

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Winter Under Water (Picador) by James Hopkin. I read this novel while in Krakow and it describes all the beauty and magic of the city, as well as the other side. Highly recommended! Also his stories, 'even the crows say Krakow' were pretty good too and perfect to take on a trip.

hetmanska bookshop, rynek
massolit, ul. felicjanek
american bookstore, galeria krakowska

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It's an amazing novel by James Hopkin set in Krakow during all the changes - colourful, poetic, evoking this magic city, a must for all visitors.

www.jameshopkin.org/

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In three trips to Krakow I have never had a problems with a bureau de change so unfortunately dropped my guard and lost 30% by using Interchange at ul Grodzka 9. They have three rates and if you change less than £500 you get the very poor rate of 3.5 zlotys instead of 4.7. They have other branches so avoid like the plague.

Poland

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Located on the edge of Krakow, at the last stop on the tramline is a nest of hyper malls and rampant development. In the middle of this sits the lone surviving building from the once massive Solvay Soda Ash Complex which employed at its peak 3,000 men and their families.

"Solvay" has a complex and fascinating history (Pope John Paul II worked there during World War II to avoid deportation) but stands today as a forgotten monument and symbol of the transformations that have occurred in Poland over the last 20 years. Solvay has quietly become the defacto community center of the area - and a dedicated space for creative and artistic production.

Conceived and curated by Halfslant, NOWA SODA: Solvay Transformed is a month long artist in residency which challenges four international artists to create a site-responsive installation while bearing witness to the past and present of the building. Four artists have each developed proposals that address not just the history of the building, but the living community that uses the space every day.

www.nowasoda.com
62 Zakopianska
Last stop on tram number 8 heading towards Borek Fałęcki

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