http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20011 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20011 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19433 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19433 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19413 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19413 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18265
Whilst it doesn't have as an extensive menu as some of the other vegetarian places, the food there is superb - totally vegetarian (with some vegan) and really good quality. The onion soup is exceptional!

Unlike the other vegetarian cafes in Krakow the emphasis at Mlkynek is on superb food, good service and relaxing surroundings rather than simply 'healthy' food. This means you can actually get a beer or a bottle of wine with your meal (an essential part of the equation, in my book!).

What is more, like many places in Krakow, the food is unbelievably cheap (though the wine isn't that cheap).]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18265 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17516 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17516 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16515
Everybody talks about Kazimierz with its young and funky atmosphere, but I hadn't heard so much about Podgorze. The river is about 20 mins walk from the main square and as soon as you cross it you're in the Ghetto Heroes Square with it's atmospheric memorial of empty chairs. Visit the Pharmacy under the Eagle which has been turned into a small museum (it's on the opposite corner of the square - keep going, it's not obvious until you're literally outside it!) to get a handle on what it used to be like. The displays are pretty meaningless without the audio tour, so spend your zlotys and get informed. When you've done that, cross the road using the underpass, follow your map, go through the foot-tunnel under the railway and find yourself at the Schindler Enamel factory. It wasn't very well signposted, or that easy to find on foot, but it's about 8-10 mins walk from the Ghetto Heroes Square. It was being renovated when we were there - looks like they're finally going to turn it into something, rather than the basic display there at the moment.

After a subdued morning we hit Kazimierz, and I can't recommend the bars and restaurants of this area highly enough. Stick to soft drinks/halves of the lethal beer/one drink per establishment, and you should be able to manage at least 10 of the fantastic bars - every one has something unique about it, and they're all within stumbling distance of each other - just keep going round and round!

I used the Cracow-Life website a lot beforehand, and you can also pick up free copies of the paper version in most bars - lots of info, especially on going out.

Get yourself to Krakow and enjoy a fabulous, accessible city with a great atmosphere and friendly locals.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16515 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13184
Modern, interesting and tasteful decor, the menu not the largest but has a good choice and lovely vegetarian dishes. The best food we have eaten anywhere in the last year, great service and cool music. Excellent wine and all very cheap.

Our meal for two, two courses each, with one large wine and one soft drink came to £24.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13184 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11242
About 12 of us got there at 9 pm on a Sunday, when they were about to close, and they effectively re-opened for us.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11242 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10998
The first two rooms – a bar and dining room - are quite intimate with cream walls, sepia photos, wooden furniture and subdued lighting.

The room we were seated in is more of a banqueting space, very pleasant - perfect for large groups and parties but a little empty with just the two of us at 6 in the evening. Towards the end of the room is a wonderful old stove and, yes, there are equine themed black and white photographs but actually this gallery, well displayed on the pale blue walls, was both decorative and interesting.

The menu is traditional Polish with a modern slant, starters include crab terrine, Polish sour rye soup, battered sardines and the intriguing but a little gruesome (at least for a non-meat eater like me) piglet in jelly. Main courses take in a selection of meats in sauces and casserole including wild boar, duck and turkey. For non meaties there are fish and vegetarian options, the latter including pancakes and pierogi. The food was extremely well presented and service throughout the evening was excellent. The standard of cooking was good but I am not sure that the main courses we had exactly worked, the carp was tasty but a little overpowered by the strong taste of the mushrooms, the Turkey could have done with a little more garlic and a little more sauce. However it was still a very nice meal and I would certainly eat there again, not least because of the lovely ambience and attentive staff.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10998 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10822
The surroundings are simple but pleasant, white walls, wooden chairs and benches, black and white photos on the wall and an array of hanging wooden fishes. The menu comprises a variety of soup - brought to your table in a metal dish suspended over an open flame from which you ladle it into your bowl – herrings, salmon and salami for starters followed by main courses of meat - including veal and wild boar goulash - poultry and fish dishes many incorporating potato cakes and dumplings. There is, however, only one vegetarian dish, potato cakes with mushroom sauce.

Service was understated but friendly and with a touch of flourish, for instance, when a main course of chicken Hungarian style was brought out sizzling from the kitchen and served ceremoniously from a platter onto the plate. As for the food itself it was great, tasty, filling, well cooked and well spiced. The main course of trout was perfectly cooked, crisp skin with melt in your mouth flesh underneath. Each main course also came with a side order of refreshing carrot, red and white cabbage salad.

And the price for two people for two courses, beer and vodka each – 99 zloty including a tip (approx. £17.00/$33.00). Excellent.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10822 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10750
If you want Jewish food, try one of the others around the square.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10750 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10749 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10749 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9624 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9624 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6841 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6841 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6357
However, this place served the best meal of my life, taking in everything from the food, the service, the ambience, the environment. Everything about it was just 5 star.

They offer a 4 course traditional Polish menu (which ends up being 5 courses with an additional one brought "compliments of the chef") which is just outstanding, from fantastic pierogi to a broth full of flavour and tender beef fillet. Dessert is magnificent and comes with a large glass of cherry vodka to help it down.

Despite this being the most expensive restaurant in Krakow, 5 courses for two plus two bottles of wine and vodka came to £66 in total.

For service better than any michelin starred restaurant in London and quarter of the price, you must come here and experience it. They are so friendly and unpretentious that you could walk in in your jeans and trainers and you wouldn't get a second look from anyone. Definitely worth paying the extra just to experience this place.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6357 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6321
On the first floor they have a restaurant which I think is the best in Krakow. Ariel is also very good.

You don´t have to do much in Krakow. Just strolling round the streets is a pleasant experience.

I was there during Christmas time. They have a very nice Christmas market on the main square in December.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6321 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6345 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6345 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6334 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6334 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6277 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6277 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6273 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6273