Galicia was once the heart of Eastern European Jewish culture. This museum gives a great introduction and interesting overview of this fascinating culture.

The permanent exhibition, Traces of Memory, is a contemporary look at the Jewish past in Poland. The exhibition features the work of the late photographer Chris Schwarz. Over a period of twelve years, he travelled together with Prof. Jonathan Webber (UNESCO Chair of Jewish and Interfaith Studies, University of Birmingham, UK) town by town and village by village. Their work offers a special way of looking at the Jewish past that was destroyed in Poland. I enjoyed the exhibition as very informative and thought-provoking.

Check the changing current exhibition as well!

www.galiciajewishmuseum.org/

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We visited the site of the Jewish Ghetto (in Podgorze) on the other side of the river in the morning and spent the afternoon/evening wandering our way through the bars of Kazimierz. It was the best day I've spent in Krakow.

Everybody talks about Kazimierz with its young and funky atmosphere, but I hadn't heard so much about Podgorze. The river is about 20 mins walk from the main square and as soon as you cross it you're in the Ghetto Heroes Square with it's atmospheric memorial of empty chairs. Visit the Pharmacy under the Eagle which has been turned into a small museum (it's on the opposite corner of the square - keep going, it's not obvious until you're literally outside it!) to get a handle on what it used to be like. The displays are pretty meaningless without the audio tour, so spend your zlotys and get informed. When you've done that, cross the road using the underpass, follow your map, go through the foot-tunnel under the railway and find yourself at the Schindler Enamel factory. It wasn't very well signposted, or that easy to find on foot, but it's about 8-10 mins walk from the Ghetto Heroes Square. It was being renovated when we were there - looks like they're finally going to turn it into something, rather than the basic display there at the moment.

After a subdued morning we hit Kazimierz, and I can't recommend the bars and restaurants of this area highly enough. Stick to soft drinks/halves of the lethal beer/one drink per establishment, and you should be able to manage at least 10 of the fantastic bars - every one has something unique about it, and they're all within stumbling distance of each other - just keep going round and round!

I used the Cracow-Life website a lot beforehand, and you can also pick up free copies of the paper version in most bars - lots of info, especially on going out.

Get yourself to Krakow and enjoy a fabulous, accessible city with a great atmosphere and friendly locals.

www.cracow-life.com/

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You can't beat Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) when it comes to looking for souvenirs from Krakow: Amber, silver jewellery, linen table cloths, stained glass, wooden chess sets and decorative glass are among the most popular buys.

On the first floor, there's a gallery of 19th century Polish Art, housing paintings by Jan Matejko, Henryk Siemiradzki, Józef Chełmoński, Julian Fałat, and the Kossak family.

After shopping and sightseening have a rest in the Noworolski cafe, a favourite of a certain Vladimir Lenin during his stay in Krakow.

In the middle of the Market Square (Rynek Glowny).

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Home to Leonardo Da Vinci's famous "Lady with an Ermine" painting, the museum also houses Rembrandt's "Landscape with the Good Samaritan", a collection of Western European paintings (from the Middle Ages to the Classicism) as well as ancient Egyptian, Roman and Etruscan artefacts. There is also the Memorabilia of Puławy (Pamiątki Puławskie), an exhibition with memorabilia related to some key figures in the history of Poland.

ul. Św. Jana 19
31-017 Kraków
Polska

Tel: 012/422 55 66;
tel./fax: 012/292 64 64
e-mail: biuro@fundacja-czartoryskich.krakow.pl
www.muzeum-czartoryskich.krakow.pl/

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These 900 year-old mines must be one of the least known wonders of the world. Thirty minutes drive outside Krakow at Wieliczka, they comprise 300km of tunnels on nine levels. Three kilometres are open to the public. There are underground lakes, numerous chapels, a ballroom and, most breathtaking of all, a church 70m high with exquisite Bible story carvings on the wall. All of it was created by the miners who worked here. Eight hundred stairs take you down into the mine - but there is a lift to take you up. Contrary to popular belief, criminals and political prisoners were never sent down the salt mines. It was too prestigious a job when salt was (almost literally) worth its weight in gold.

ul. Zamkowa 8, 32-020 Wieliczka;
tel: 12 278 32 66, 12 422 19 47;
www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl/pl/english.html

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From the outside Wawel Hill, upon which stands the Castle, Cathedral and other buildings, looks like an imposing - but not unattractve - fortress.

Inside the fortifications the very attractive grounds and courtyards create a sense of space that is rather unexpected. Some of the views, particularly towards the Cathedral, have an almost fairytale aspect.

The outside vista of Wawel Hill does not really prepare you for its internal character. Like so much of Krakow it was a delightful discovery.

For inquiries and booking contact the Tourist Service Office (BOT), Wawel 5;
Tel: 12 422 51 55 ext. 291;
www.krakow-info.com/wawel.htm

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A vast network of rooms and churches literally all built with salt. You can even lick it off the walls. The water is extremely beneficial for those with arthritis or asthma.

Take the frequent trains (every 10 mins) from Krakow's main station.(journey time: 25 mins). Salt mines are just a few minutes walk from Wieliczka's main train station;
www.krakow-info.com/wielicz.htm

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On the edge of the Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz), this small museum houses reconstructed home interiors, an impressive collection of traditional costumes and probably the best display of decorated eggs you'll ever see. No photography allowed, unfortunately.

ulica Krakowska 46;
tel: 12 430 60 23

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The Museum houses a stunning photographic exhibition documenting the physical remains of Jewish culture and civilization in Galicia. In addition, there is a cafe and an excellent bookshop. It's well worth a visit and situated in the heart of the historic Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, where Speilberg filmed 'Schindler's List'. A real 'must' if you're in Krakow.

Dajwor Street 18, 31-052 Krakow, Poland;
tel: 12 4216842;
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org

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Needs little explanation. Well worth a visit. The main site is a museum, with photographs and exhibits. Following the planned trail leads you through the cells and ends up in a gas chamber. The Polish hut contains photographs and information about the struggles of the nation. Also go to Birkenau, which is about 5 minutes on the bus from the main camp. The sheer size of this camp (aka Auschwitz II) is astonishing and eerie. The 'Death Gate' is enough to send chills down your spine.

Buy the guide (4zl) at the entrance to Auschwitz which is very informative, otherwise you can take an expensive organised tour.

Trains from Krakow to Oswiecim go every 2 hours or so and take 90 minutes from Krakow. From the train station, it’s around 15 minutes to walk to the site. Entrance to the site is free.

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Only twenty minutes on the train, the extraordinary royal salt mine just outside Krakow is a memorable trip underground, and contains some extraordinary salt carvings by miners, and a large chapel/church entirely hewn from salt. An absolute "must" if you ever visit Krakow, southern Poland.

Twenty minute local ride from Krakow main station. Also bus access. Regular services both ways.

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The salt mines in Wielicka are really good, tours last about two hours and English-speaking guides are available.

www.kopalnia-wieliczka.pl/english/index.html

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A treat for plane enthusiasts. More than one hundred aircraft, including gliders, helicopters and anti-aircraft missiles, and also some two hundred aero engines.

In a park half-way between the centre of Krakow and Nowa Huta district. Best way to get here is by taxi.
Al. Jana Pawła II 39
30-969 Kraków 28, P.O. Box 79
phone: +48 012 642 87 00, +48 012 642 40 70
phone/fax: +48 012 642 87 01, +48 012 642 40 71
web: www.aviationmuseum.pl
e-mail:info@aviationmuseum.pl

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In the main exhibition area is a photographic tribute to Poland's Jewish heritage during the last thousand years. It also holds Jewish musical and cultural events. We attended an excellent Klezmer musical evening, which was held regularly in the summer. They have an English bookshop and a cafe, provide a really clear map of 'Jewish Krakow' and speak good English. Everyone was very helpful.

18 Dajwor Street (just off Szeroka Street, 1 minute from the Old Synagogue);
tel: 12 421 68 42;
email: info@galiciajewishmuseum.org;
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org

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This monument honouring the great Polish playwright and artist Stanislaw Wyspianski shows him surrounded by characters from two of his plays.

Apparently there was a lot of criticism of the monument when it was first unveiled. Not being familiar with any of Wyspianski's plays, I don't know whether the criticism was levelled at the way the characters have been represented or the style of the sculpture. Coming to it from an uninformed viewpoint I rather liked the solid, stoic characteristics of the figures.

The location, however, is pretty terrible. Outside the National Museum is fine but at the end of the car park outside the National Museum isn't! It simply doesn't do it any justice; it gives the monument a rather sorry aspect as it stares forlornly over the roofs of cars.

Pomnik S. Wyspianakiego, outside the National Museum.

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This collection of 360 tapestries was begun by Zygmunt I and continued by his son, Zygmunt August. The tapestries were commissioned for specific places on the walls of the Royal Castle on Wawel and, thus, were tailor-made to fit the exact dimensions of the area where they were to be hung. The themes of the tapestries range from biblical stories, animal and landscapes to mythical creatures, coats of arms and allegorical scenes.

Catherine the Great appropriated the tapestries for herself, having them transported to Russia. They were returned in 1921 but removed to Canada at the start of the Second World War. The tapestries were finally returned to Krakow in 1961.

They really are amazing pieces of art. Huge, intricate and finely detailed. The amount of work that must have gone into creating them is stunning. Examples of the tapestries can be seen in the State Rooms and Royal Apartments of the castle

Wawel Castle, Wawel Hill

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A memorial built in the 1820s to celebrate the life of Polish national hero Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1818) in the form of a circular mound, which you can climb for a view over Kraków and the surrounding countryside. A small but fascinating museum at the base charts the life of Kościuszko. There is also a separate exhibition of wax figures and a hotel.

al. Waszyngtona, 30-204 Kraków;
tel: 12 425-11-16;
Bus no. 100 or a good 30-45 minute walk (mostly uphill) from the Debnicki bridge;
Mound & Museum: www.kopieckosciuszki.pl
Hotel FM - Pod Kopcem: www.hotel.fm.pl

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This village is the birthplace of the former Pope John Paul II. His house has been preserved as a museum and the church where he was baptised is also open to the public.

Wadowice lies 70km to the west of Krakow and is easily accessible by bus and train;
www.krakow-info.com/wadowice.htm

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I was lucky enough to sing there with a cantor during a Jewish festival. The dignity of its quietly crumbling deterioration has to be seen to be believed.

Also, the young folk there are charming. There are a selection of old, brick cellars that are now bars where university students play their light, almost naive, drinking games.

ul. Szeroka 24;
012-422-0962

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The Krakowska Karta Turystyczna, valid for two (45 PLN) or three (PLN65) days, entitles the holder to free travel on city buses and trams (including the bus route no 192 from/to Krakow's Balice international airport) and to free entry to 32 Krakow museums. Cardholders also receive discounts in certain restaurants and shops as well as when buying tickets for local trips and excursions.

You can buy the card at the airport, tourist information centres, travel agencies and hotels.

1 Polish Zlotych = approximately 0.18 Great British Pounds (April 2006)

See www.krakowcard.com/ for more details.

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