Fantastic custard tart available from most pastelarias around the city, although the original ones come from one shop in Belem (Antiga Fabrica dos Pasteis de Belem - you can spot it by the queues outside) where they call them Pasteis de Belem. Custard tart really doesn't do it justice, they are truly stunning and one is never enough.

At pastelerias across the city, or at Antiga Fabrica dos Pasteis de Belem, Rua de Belem 84-88, Belem

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A buzzing outdoor terrace, quality coffee, history and that atmospheric, cavernous interior – damn the critics, this Brazilian lady is a Lisbon classic.

Address: Rua Garrett No. 120, Largo do Chiado.
Telephone: (351) 213469541.

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Boasting one of Lisbon’s best views, at U Terracao you can enjoy the panorama of this elegant city from a comfortable chair with the beverage of your choice at hand. Take a break from the climb up to the castle and have a look at where you are.

Address: Calc. Marques de Tancos No. 3, Lisbon.
Telephone: (351) 508507413.

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Peaceful cafe/bar beside a small lake at the very top of the Parque Eduardo VII. Lovely place to relax and read.

Rua Marquês de Fronteira Jardim Amália Rodrigues, quite near metro São Sebastião.

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Public terrace and suntrap with a spectacular view across the River Tejo to the 25 de Abril bridge and the Rio imitation Cristo-Rei.

The little kiosk does good, cheap bica's of coffee and imperial glasses of beer. If you take exception with young bohemian types playing percussion stay away. Otherwise, take a book, people watch and easily while away a few hours.

Rua de Santa Catarina, Santa Catarina/Bairro Alto; Metro: Baixa-Chiado

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These gardens are a haven due to a canopy of ancient trees and a peaceful cafe serving cool "imperial" beers. It's where all the trendiest (with baby) hang out on a Saturday morning before shopping at the bio farmers market.

Tram 28 goes from the Praça do Comércio to the Basilica da Estrela. From there it is only a 5 minute walk.

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Food is not Lisbon's strongpoint, but savour the glorious custard cream pies at the cafe Antiga Confeitara de Belém.

Rua de Belém 84-92;
tel: 21 363 7423

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A legend among pastry lovers, this place invented Pasteis de Belém (or pasteis de nata as they're called everywhere else) and it's hard to beat their claim to make the best ones (the recipe is kept secret). Have them with coffee in the maze of rooms at the back, sprinkled with cinnamon and icing sugar from battered metal shakers, or take them home in a tube with little sachets. They won't keep for more than a day - but no-one can resist eating them that long anyway.

Rua de Belém 84-92;
tel 21 363 74 23.
www.pasteisdebelem.pt;
Tram 15, trains from Cais do Sodré, many buses

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A restaurant, cafe, social club for Alentejans (the vast rural plains between Lisbon and the Algarve) and one of the loveliest Moorish interiors in Lisbon. To see the tiled interior of the restaurant is worth the price of an excellent meal alone.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58, just north of the Rossio

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This is one of the most lively squares of Lisbon, and one of the most beautiful in my opinion. In the middle stands the statue of Dom Pedro IV and on each side there is a beautiful fountain. The D. Maria II National Theatre is situated at the northern side of the square next to the glorious Triumphal Arch. If you want to rest and have a bica (coffee), then choose one of the many cafés or pasteleria's situated on each side of the square.

At the southern end of Avenida da Liberdade, on the southern bank of the Tajo river.

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A small square where the locals of the Estrela and Chiado districts meet. It features a statue of Portugal's most famous poet - Luis de Camoes.

Tram 28 takes you from the Praca de Comercio to the Basilica da Estrela. From there it is a 5 minute walk;
Metro: Baixa-Chiado, exit to Chiado (upper) and walk up to Camões, it's straight ahead;
www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/camoes-square.html

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The Cafe Martinho da Arcada was a favourite haunt of the famous poet Fernando Pessoa. It's elegant, chic and friendly (but not cheap).

Praça do Comércio 3, near the Triumphal Arch at the northern end;
tel: 21 886 6213

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If you're a fan of the angst-ridden (in the best possible way) Fernando Pessoa, have lunch at the Cafe Martinho da Arcada, one of his favourite haunts. Located on one of the city's grandest squares, Praça do Comércio.

Praça do Comércio 3;
tel: 21 886 6213

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