Opposite the Jardim da Estrela, near the end of the 28 tram route, is the walled English Cemetery - an extraordinary, overgrown jumble of graves, trees and stories. Not just English ones: all sorts of expats, adventurers, drifters and romantics ended up here. So did Henry Fielding, who came to Lisbon for his health, hated it and died. It feels like walking into a secret history of old Europe.

Rua de Sao Jorge, Estrela;
Metro: Rato, or catch tram 28

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