In 1798, the remains of Lisbon's Roman amphitheatre were discovered dug into the side of the hill, in what must once have been a very dramatic location just uphill from the Sé. It's been excavated and turned into a simple but very attractive museum.

Pátio do Aljube, 5 (off Rua Augusto Rosa) or Rua da Saudade; tel: 21 75 13 200;
Tram 28.

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Nothing defines Lisbon better than its miradouros, the lovely belvederes from which to sit and gaze at the view. The Castelo de São Jorge is the best-known, but there are many more.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara:
At the top of the Elevador da Gloria, looking out across to Graça and the Castelo, it has a tiled panel detailing the view.

Miradouro de Santa Catarina:
Near the Bica funicular, this hidden-away viewpoint is worth seeking out: it has a little cafe, popular with late-night clubbers. Wonderful views over the Tagus.

Miradouro das Portas do Sol:
The 28 tram sweeps past here before plunging away towards Graça. Probably the best view over the Alfama.

Miradouro Santa Luzia:
Perhaps the loveliest one of all, round the back of the Igreja de Santa Luzia, just before you get to Largo das Portas do Sol. A pretty terrace of azulejos, hung with flowers, you'll want to sit here and gaze across the Tagus for hours.

Wherever there's a hill, go up it and you'll come to one.

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What is happening to Parque Mayer? This atmospheric hodge-podge of theatres, music halls, restaurants and cinemas just off the Avenide da Liberdade has been slowly crumbling away for years, and plans were announced to tear down the lot and replace it with a Frank Gehry-designed complex. Those plans seem to have been abandoned and the beautiful art deco Teatro Capitólio, despite a local campaign and listing by World Monuments Watch, is still being left to rot. Go for a wander around while you can: it's like being on a David Lynch film set.

Parque Mayer, Travessa do Salitre;
Metro: Avenida
www.wmf.org/resources/sitepages/portugal_teatro_capitolio.html

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This place, in the Estrela area of the city, should be on the itinerary of any tourist. I love it because it is wonderful just to go for a walk around and feel at peace in the midst of the city. It is utterly beautiful, very peaceful and extremely well-kept. If you are able to, go into the church, because it is gorgeous as well.

Henry Fielding the novelist and Philip Doddridge the writer of hymns, are among those buried in the cemetery. If you visit when there is a service on you will be made very welcome by the expat community. There are also some decent and relatively cheap eating places in the area.

Rua de Sao Jorge, Estrela;
Metro: Rato, or catch tram 28;
Walk straight through the gardens until you see a large wall opposite. Cross the zebra crossing, bear left and half way up the hill is the church gate. For more information, or to arrange a visit, see www.lisbonanglicans.org

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Beyond Estrela lies the smart, chic and self-contained district of Campo de Ourique: a grid of tree-lined streets with an almost Parisian feel, with plenty of small shops, cafes and a fresh produce market. Off the beaten track, but a pleasant (and mercifully flat) area for a stroll. South-west of here is the huge Prazeres ('Pleasures') cemetery, which has great views across the Ponte 25 de Abril.

At the western end of the 28 tram route: some trams end their journey at Estrela, so make sure the sign on the front of the tram says 'Prazeres'.

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Lisbon's botanical gardens are - like most things in Lisbon - on a precipitous slope; they're also lush, tropical, usually empty and feel like they've been there a million years. A beautiful, cool oasis right in the heart of the city.

Rua Escola Politécnica, Principe Real;
Open every day from 9am - 7pm

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This vast neoclassical monument has a huge dome and a façade with twin bell towers decorated with an array of statues of saints and allegorical figures. The spacious marble interior contains an elaborate tomb of Queen Maria I, and a life-size Christmas manger composed of more than 500 figures. Free entry.

Praça da Estrela (tram 28 stops right outside);
tel: 21-396-0915;
Open daily 7:30am-1pm, 3pm-8pm

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Check out the pedestrianised streets of the Baixa district which is the comercial core of Lisbon. All the great fashion chain stores are here, and a wealth of cafes and restaurants. It comes alive at night as people meet to dine or go clubbing.

North of Praca de Comercio;
Nearest metro: Rossio or Restauradores

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A small square where the locals of the Estrela and Chiado districts meet. It features a statue of Portugal's most famous poet - Luis de Camoes.

Tram 28 takes you from the Praca de Comercio to the Basilica da Estrela. From there it is a 5 minute walk;
Metro: Baixa-Chiado, exit to Chiado (upper) and walk up to Camões, it's straight ahead;
www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/camoes-square.html

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