Restaurant in Bairro Alto that gets it right in a pop art, azulejo tiles adorning the walls and mightily tasty arroz de polvo (octopus rice) way.

Should you like your fish, dust off your Portuguese and brave the lusophone only menu.

Rua Marechal Saldanha 23/25; Tel 21 346 47 91

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Cascais, about 50 minutes by train from Lisbon, has fine sandy beaches - where men in wet suits dive for octopus - and an impressive fish market, where all the fish-sellers are elderly women.

There are frequent trains from Lisbon's Estação Cais do Sodre;
Turismo de Cascais: Rua Visconde da Luz, 2750 Cascais;
tel: 21 486 82 04

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The best shellfish in the city: try the clams in garlic and parsley. In fact, try everything. The waiters are seriously professional, the tiles are seriously garish, the food is seriously good.

Av. Almirante Reis, 1-H;
tel: 21 885 1024;
Metro: Intendente

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