Portugal
I am one of the old-fashioned music lovers, who loves to hang around in record stores. V-records stocks vinyl, from Sixties funk to modern electronica. Find out here what's on in Lisbon - by carefully examining flyers and quizzing discerning staff. Shop is run by a local DJ. Monday to Saturday 1pm-midnight.
Rua do Diario de Noticias 69
It's a chain of shops selling books, CDs, software, computers and other stuff. They also do photo processing, ticket sales for concerts and events, hold photo/art exhibitions, and have a juice bar.
I think it's French but you'll see them in the big shopping areas in Lisbon. Open until late. It's a sort of modern-funky Ikea.
Colombo shopping centre, and at other locations around the city;
Metro: Colegio Militar (the station is inside the shopping centre);
www.fnac.pt (in Portuguese)
A modern(ish) shopping centre that looks like it's straight out of Blade Runner. It's black inside, grimey, very 'low rent' and people carry giant sacks of stuff about.
Great for exotic fruit and African fabrics and the like. It's not a usual tourist destination.
Metro: Martim Moniz, which is actually inside the shopping centre
An Azulejo shop and factory. They will make tiles to order and ship them anywhere. Less expensive than you might expect. Well worth a browse, at the least.
Rua do Alecrim 95-97 (up the hill from Cais do Sodre or down the hill from the square at the end of Rua Garrett). The factory, which you can visit to see the painters working, is out towards Belem, up a street at the side of the big hospital, Calcada do Boa-Hora. Its several minutes' walk up this road, on the right.
A trip back in time: a small shop where two (very) old ladies spend the day packing cans with vintage 1950s labels. What´s inside? Almost anything you can figure out from the sea, with sauces ranging from mild oils to Thai-hot spicy stuff. A treasure.
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 34, close to the waterfront at Praça do Comércio;
tel: 21 887 1058
Beyond Estrela lies the smart, chic and self-contained district of Campo de Ourique: a grid of tree-lined streets with an almost Parisian feel, with plenty of small shops, cafes and a fresh produce market. Off the beaten track, but a pleasant (and mercifully flat) area for a stroll. South-west of here is the huge Prazeres ('Pleasures') cemetery, which has great views across the Ponte 25 de Abril.
At the western end of the 28 tram route: some trams end their journey at Estrela, so make sure the sign on the front of the tram says 'Prazeres'.
Gorgeous shoe shop masquerading as a boudoir, complete with chaise longue and piano.
60 Rua do Norte, Bairro Alto;
tel: 213 421 015
This shop on the edge of the Baixa, near the Sé, sells an excellent range of ceramics, linen, figurines etc from all over Portugal. The hand-painted clay figures from the north are delightful. Not especially cheap, but probably the best place in Lisbon to buy well-chosen handicrafts.
Rua da Madalena, 87;
tel 21 88 72 031;
www.santosoficios-artesanato.pt/index.htm
Forget hands-on interactive high-tech experiences, this is a museum like they don't make them anymore. A charming and dusty old collection of fossils, rocks, prehistoric tools, etc, it feels like no-one but you has been here for years, which is possibly true. Watch out you don't trip over a dinosaur's tail.
This is a lovely, quiet corner of Lisbon to walk around, between São Bento and Bairro Alto. Ratton, a small gallery/shop selling hand-painted tiles by contemporary artists, including local hero Paula Rego, is at Rua Academia das Ciências 2.
Rua Academia das Ciências, 19; tel 21 346 39 15;
Tram 28 to Calçada do Combro then walk up Rua do Século, turn left into Rua Academia das Ciências;
www.ineti.pt/UO/UO/?UO=10716
A delicatessen and cafe on the harbour. Great place for coffee or lunch, and next door to the ubertrendy Lux nightclub.
Av. Infante D. Henrique Armazém B Loja 8;
tel: 218 862 070
www.delidelux.pt/en/default.html
T.: +351 218 862 070
This broad boulevard with a pedestrianised centre in the middle is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees. Some cheap but good restaurants lie either on or near to this avenue.
In the heart of Lisbon, stretching up from the Praca de Comercio to the statue of the Marques de Pombal.
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