One of the best views in Lisbon. The newly renovated gardens have two levels with views across to Castelo de Sao Jorge, the Tagus, Alfama, Rossio, Avenida de Liberdade etc. It's an oasis of calm which is lit up by the sunset each evening.

An azulejo (tile) map shows you what's what.

Rua Sao Pedro de Alcantara (at the top of the Elavador da Gloria)

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If you want an authentic economic and tourist-free experience, take the catamaran from Cais do Sodre to Seixal on the south bank of the Tejo estuary. It's cheap and fast.

When you get there, walk for about ten minutes past the shipyard and into old Seixal. There are numerous places to eat the little snails (Caracois) or slices of cuttlefish (Chocos) washed down with a couple of glasses of beer. The cheapest and best however, is the headquarters of the local communist party, which is friendly and open to all!

Take in the traditional boats that used to work the river and maybe the old cork factory just up the road. If you are desperate for internet contact there is free broadband and wireless access in the local library.

Ferries: www.transtejo.pt;
Local council: www.cm-seixal.pt

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What is happening to Parque Mayer? This atmospheric hodge-podge of theatres, music halls, restaurants and cinemas just off the Avenide da Liberdade has been slowly crumbling away for years, and plans were announced to tear down the lot and replace it with a Frank Gehry-designed complex. Those plans seem to have been abandoned and the beautiful art deco Teatro Capitólio, despite a local campaign and listing by World Monuments Watch, is still being left to rot. Go for a wander around while you can: it's like being on a David Lynch film set.

Parque Mayer, Travessa do Salitre;
Metro: Avenida
www.wmf.org/resources/sitepages/portugal_teatro_capitolio.html

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Beyond Estrela lies the smart, chic and self-contained district of Campo de Ourique: a grid of tree-lined streets with an almost Parisian feel, with plenty of small shops, cafes and a fresh produce market. Off the beaten track, but a pleasant (and mercifully flat) area for a stroll. South-west of here is the huge Prazeres ('Pleasures') cemetery, which has great views across the Ponte 25 de Abril.

At the western end of the 28 tram route: some trams end their journey at Estrela, so make sure the sign on the front of the tram says 'Prazeres'.

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Between the Baixa and Castelo is the sloping maze of Mouraria - the Alfama without the tourists and the chi-chi boutiques. Mainly African, it hums with life day and night. Walk up through the narrow streets and wind up in Graca - Lisbon's highest hill - then head for the rooftop bar of the Albergaria Senhora do Monte. It has the finest view over the Castelo and the city.

Metro: Martim Moniz, then head uphill. Albergaria Senhora do Monte is at Calçada do Monte, 39.

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The Castelo de Sao Jorge is one of the most peaceful spots in Lisbon and has fine views over the city. It's a great place from where to watch the sunset.

When we were there, the Emperor Hirohito's son and heir were filming the amazing sunset.

Follow up with an evening meal in the Alfama district below the castle at the Esquina de Alfama for good value Portuguese food (tasty sardines!)
 

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Get lost in the Alfama district. It is the real Lisbon, as it is the only district not to have been flattened by the great earthquake of 1850. The maze of confusing cobbled streets leading to the Castelo de São Jorge contain houses showing examples of azulejo tiling. Look out for the viewpoint with a beautiful mosiac of the city and a pond, looking out over the Tejo river and Ponte 25 de Abril.

A 5 minute walk to the east of the Praca de Comercio. The metro doesn't cover the Alfama area, but it's better to walk anyway.

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Check out the pedestrianised streets of the Baixa district which is the comercial core of Lisbon. All the great fashion chain stores are here, and a wealth of cafes and restaurants. It comes alive at night as people meet to dine or go clubbing.

North of Praca de Comercio;
Nearest metro: Rossio or Restauradores

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These districts are some of the friendliest and oldest parts of Lisbon. Some of the houses are superb. Markets often take place in the winding streets which contain small cafes and shops. Avoid the Lapa district after dark though.

A 20-25 minute walk to the west of the Praca de Comercio, or there are plenty of trams from here to Estrela and Chiado if you don't want to walk.

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This broad boulevard with a pedestrianised centre in the middle is the Portuguese equivalent of the Champs Elysees. Some cheap but good restaurants lie either on or near to this avenue.

In the heart of Lisbon, stretching up from the Praca de Comercio to the statue of the Marques de Pombal.

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Forget hands-on interactive high-tech experiences, this is a museum like they don't make them anymore. A charming and dusty old collection of fossils, rocks, prehistoric tools, etc, it feels like no-one but you has been here for years, which is possibly true. Watch out you don't trip over a dinosaur's tail.

This is a lovely, quiet corner of Lisbon to walk around, between São Bento and Bairro Alto. Ratton, a small gallery/shop selling hand-painted tiles by contemporary artists, including local hero Paula Rego, is at Rua Academia das Ciências 2.

Rua Academia das Ciências, 19; tel 21 346 39 15;
Tram 28 to Calçada do Combro then walk up Rua do Século, turn left into Rua Academia das Ciências;
www.ineti.pt/UO/UO/?UO=10716

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No visit to Lisbon can possibly be complete without a trip to the Graça. The Graça has the feel of a small town that is separate from the city. It has lots of cheap restaurants and cafes and two patios that offer spectacular views over Lisbon.

Take the 28 tram from the city centre and travel through the narrow winding streets, past the Cathedral and the magnificent Church of São Vicente de Fora and the steep cobbles Rua Voz do Operário, then get off at the Largo da Graça and make your way to the outdoor cafe on the Miradouro da Graça.

If you're feeling a little more energetic, then take the 10-minute walk up to the Miradoura da Nossa Senhora da Monte - the view is reward in itself. Afterwards, take a leisurely stroll down to one of the many cafes and restaurants for an unbelievably cheap meal.

If you go on a Tuesday or a Saturday, then don't miss the Feira da Ladrã flea market that is held behind the Vicente de Fora church - you can even have a meal at the church's cafe, and eat on the roof with stunning views over the Alfama rooftops and the River Tagus.

www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/graca.html;
To see photos go to flickr.com/photos/lusobrandane/76608466/

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