Take the commuter ferry for the short trip across the Tejo river to Cacilhas (€0.60). Take a trip up the Elevador Panorâmico da Boca do Vento, a lift built into the cliff face (€1). Go at dusk when it is quiet and you can enjoy views of the sun setting behind the Ponte 25 de Abril and the Cristo Rei (a smaller version of Rio’s Christ statue).

Ferries from Estação Fluvial and Cais do Sodré

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If you go to one stadium in Lisbon, don't go to the preening corporate plastic palaces of the Luz and the Alvalade. Head to the Restelo, home to the perpetually useless Os Belenenses. The view from the West stand is breathtaking: the Bridge, Cristo Rei, the monastery, it's got the lot.

Complexo Desportivo do Belenenses;
tel: 210 341 480

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The best shellfish in the city: try the clams in garlic and parsley. In fact, try everything. The waiters are seriously professional, the tiles are seriously garish, the food is seriously good.

Av. Almirante Reis, 1-H;
tel: 21 885 1024;
Metro: Intendente

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This shop on the edge of the Baixa, near the Sé, sells an excellent range of ceramics, linen, figurines etc from all over Portugal. The hand-painted clay figures from the north are delightful. Not especially cheap, but probably the best place in Lisbon to buy well-chosen handicrafts.

Rua da Madalena, 87;
tel 21 88 72 031;
www.santosoficios-artesanato.pt/index.htm

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Forget hands-on interactive high-tech experiences, this is a museum like they don't make them anymore. A charming and dusty old collection of fossils, rocks, prehistoric tools, etc, it feels like no-one but you has been here for years, which is possibly true. Watch out you don't trip over a dinosaur's tail.

This is a lovely, quiet corner of Lisbon to walk around, between São Bento and Bairro Alto. Ratton, a small gallery/shop selling hand-painted tiles by contemporary artists, including local hero Paula Rego, is at Rua Academia das Ciências 2.

Rua Academia das Ciências, 19; tel 21 346 39 15;
Tram 28 to Calçada do Combro then walk up Rua do Século, turn left into Rua Academia das Ciências;
www.ineti.pt/UO/UO/?UO=10716

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Superb little late summer garage rock festival a short boat journey from Lisbon. Excellent selection of bands and hosted within a vibrant music scene.

To get there take the ferry from the Estação do Sul e Sueste/Terreiro do Paço terminal in Lisbon;
www.barreirorocks.com

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A fabulous, genuinely Portuguese restaurant serving traditional food which is also extremely trendy, glamorous and VERY gay! Right in the middle of the Bairro Alto next to all the action.

Rua da Atalaia 57, Bairro Alto;
Metro: Baixa Chiado;
tel: 21 346 48 11;
Reserve a table as there are only two timetables allowed, 20.30 or 22.30

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No visit to Lisbon can possibly be complete without a trip to the Graça. The Graça has the feel of a small town that is separate from the city. It has lots of cheap restaurants and cafes and two patios that offer spectacular views over Lisbon.

Take the 28 tram from the city centre and travel through the narrow winding streets, past the Cathedral and the magnificent Church of São Vicente de Fora and the steep cobbles Rua Voz do Operário, then get off at the Largo da Graça and make your way to the outdoor cafe on the Miradouro da Graça.

If you're feeling a little more energetic, then take the 10-minute walk up to the Miradoura da Nossa Senhora da Monte - the view is reward in itself. Afterwards, take a leisurely stroll down to one of the many cafes and restaurants for an unbelievably cheap meal.

If you go on a Tuesday or a Saturday, then don't miss the Feira da Ladrã flea market that is held behind the Vicente de Fora church - you can even have a meal at the church's cafe, and eat on the roof with stunning views over the Alfama rooftops and the River Tagus.

www.golisbon.com/sight-seeing/graca.html;
To see photos go to flickr.com/photos/lusobrandane/76608466/

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A delicatessen and cafe on the harbour. Great place for coffee or lunch, and next door to the ubertrendy Lux nightclub.

Av. Infante D. Henrique Armazém B Loja 8;
tel: 218 862 070
www.delidelux.pt/en/default.html
T.: +351 218 862 070

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Go to the Stadium of Light or Estadio da Luz (yes, I am a Benfica fan). From there get the underground to the Estacao do Oriente and check out the art at each stop. Upon arrival you can shop, eat, drink or just enjoy the river front. Go to the Sao Jorge castle for incredible views, from the old to the new, and the girls are pretty too.

Catch the metro from Colegio Militar to Estacao do Oriente;
www.metrolisboa.pt

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A traditional Alentejan joint in Bairro Alto, where diminutive space is inversionally proportional to the food quality. Forget the mercurial service: the gambas ao alho (garlic sauce shrimps) may be the best you´ll ever taste. Nice value, too.

No sign, but it’s on a corner of Rua do Norte (number 46), low Bairro Alto;
tel: 21 346 4265
Open every day except Monday from 7pm

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If you're a fan of the angst-ridden (in the best possible way) Fernando Pessoa, have lunch at the Cafe Martinho da Arcada, one of his favourite haunts. Located on one of the city's grandest squares, Praça do Comércio.

Praça do Comércio 3;
tel: 21 886 6213

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If you want to stay in the hotel room with the best view in Lisbon book room 712 at the Regency Chiado. It's a 4 star hotel in the centre of Lisbon.

Rua Nova do Almada, Nr. 114;
tel: 291 775936 or 764940;
email:reservations@lisboaregencychiado.com;
www.lisboaregencychiado.com

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Right next to the Oceanarium is the Knowledge Museum which is great for kids of all ages - 3 to adult. It's a great day out, especially if the weather's poor (which is unlikely), and it’s easy to get to. It contains loads of hands-on, fun scientific experiments for people to try out like moon-walking, barfly jumping, bubble-blowing and how sounds have shape. Then, in the basement, kids can don hard hats and luminous waistcoats while they build their own house with foam bricks, cranes and trucks.

Parque das Nações, Alameda dos Oceanos, Lote 2.10.01;
Take the metro from Cais de Sodre station to the EXPO site (Parque das Nacoes) at Oriente. It’s also easy to drive to;
tel: 21 891 7100;
www.pavconhecimento.pt

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