The capital town of the Transylvania region, Brasov is a step back in time. You have to constantly remind yourself that you are still in Europe. If you venture this far east, things start to change; the trains slow, the cars mould into the same make, horsedrawn carts patrol the roads.

Try arriving by train at night - Brasov illuminates through the gloom and appears to be the only conurbation in the area to have electricity. And what a gloom! This is what Transylvania is famous for - the evening draws in quickly, the surrounding densely forested mountains overhang to block out the light, the locals are understandably surprised to see outsiders as an eerie stillness stagnates the air.

But do not be put off; the whole region is stunning. At night, the howls you may hear are not packs of wolves, but stray cats and dogs - which are everywhere in Brasov - and the only thing lurking in the mountains is the Brown Bear, which apparently has not attacked a human in the town since the seventies, so relax.

After a good night sleep, awake to find snow capped alpine hills, quaint streets, friendly people, dirt cheap prices, and well-organised tours taking in Dracula's Castle (actually the real legend, Vlad The Impaler), bear watching and some of the opulent palaces in the surrounding hills. Brasov is still slightly off the radars of most independent travellers, and certainly most tour operators, so beat the crowds and tread your own path.