The most stunning road trip in Europe is found in the centre of Romania, stretching from the flat meadows of Cartisoara, across the snow-capped Fagaras mountain peaks, through a spooky 887-metre tunnel, past gushing waterfalls, mountain lakes and that's all before you get to the best bit: the unbelievable snaking descent with more u-turns, corners, cambers, twists and turns than seems humanly possible. The grand finale passes Poenari, the ruined castle on a crag belonging to Vlad the Impaler, the 13th century inspiration for Dracula. The road was constructed by the Romanian army who took five years to complete Nicolae Ceausescu's demonic plan. The Transfagarasan Highway, the second highest in Europe, opened in 1974 and is legendary among bikers for being the best route on the Continent, if not Planet Earth! Ceausescu must be spinning in his grave!

Route 7C
Turn off the E68 Sibiu to Brasov main road just after Scoreiu. The turning is marked for the village of Cartisoara.
The road stretches from Cartisoara in the north to Curtea de Arges and is only open June to October.
Google map: bit.ly/kTU7Wn

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Sibiu, while attractive, is actually the largest town in the area. To get a real feel for the region you must stay at Copsamare Guesthouses in Copsamare, two km from Biertan (UNESCO Site) and 45 from Sibiu. This charming guesthouse opened last year and has a combo that's hard to find in this region: good clean service in a B&B that has been built fully respecting local traditions of handicraft and architecture. By staying there you are also contributing to the revival of building techniques handed down through generations of local craftsmen which had almost died out under Ceaucescu. It's also a great spot to relax while walking to other villages in the area, each one has a fortified church with a different unique feature, the door in Biertan, the icon in Malancrav and the sprawling museum in Mosna. The guesthouse is very well run, a welcome relief in Romania, and each guest feels well cared for. Indulge in delicious meals made with homegrown vegetables guilt-free as then you can walk them off in the rolling hills between the villages.

www.copsamare.ro
+40746046200
copsamare@gmail.com

Google map: tinyurl.com/yjl3kba

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Built in the 18th century by General Buccow and given to the Brukenthal family, it was their summer residence for many years. The Brukenthal Foundation are trying to restore the palace and most easterly Baroque garden in Europe and it's possible to visit the grounds.

Located on the busy E68 Sibiu-Brasov highway.
Open Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, admission free but donations towards restoration welcome

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It's a museum of traditional folk civilization. It is like a very big park with a forest and a lake and it's
amazing... you can find all the old houses from every part of Romania there, from windmills to old fisherman's house from the Danube Delta to the old house in the mountains, in Bucovina, Maramures and many other places.

Dumbrava Sibiului (Sibiu's Forest);
www.muzeulastra.ro

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