As we walked into the heart of the old town from the railway station, our jaws dragged along the cobbled floor. How could we not have heard of this beautiful city until a few weeks previously?

A large central square opened up, surrounded by ancient, painted houses, churches and the landmark Councillors' tower. Adjoining it, a short step under the tower, is a smaller but no less lovely square. And then stairs and bridges and hardly a Brit in sight.

Get there before the masses arrive and just hope that the German Benny Hill lookalike has moved on and therefore won't plonk himself down at your table!