There are almost no Germans left in Transylvania now - Chancellor Kohl saw to that - but their villages all have fortified churches which are not only lovely and evocative in themselves, but whose stories will leave you brimming with tears. Where once a thriving congregation worshipped, now a sole guardian will battle age and local indifference to keep the sites clean and flower strewn. Perhaps, and this is rare, only tourists can keep the places intact. Go there.

Take a trip out of Sibiu

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