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Learn the basics at Poiana Brasov ski-school. Situated deep within the Carpathian mountains. There’s plenty of scope for intermediates too. Bargain breaks are available throughout the season. Enjoy authentic Rumanian food. Apres includes cosy bars with gypsy music, attractive restaurants, massages, sauna, skating, swimming or night skiing.
Venture further afield and explore traditional villages taking in Dracula’s home Bran castle on the way. An enchanting horse-drawn sleigh ride through spectacular scenery remains a treasured memory.
www.poiana-brasov.com/
Google map: bit.ly/wxS4Un
We visited the Pestera Ursilor (cave with cave bear skeletons) at Chiscau and came across the Ethnographic Museum of Mr and Mrs Flutur. They have been collecting farming and household objects for several decades and the place is a treasure trove of everything associated with a rural way of life long since gone in most of Europe. Mr Flutur is a wonderful guide. This was one of many highlights during a month driving through Romania.
From Oradea travel south on the E79 to Beius, then continue south on the E79, turning left to Chiscau.
Google map: bit.ly/qFbWlM
The most stunning road trip in Europe is found in the centre of Romania, stretching from the flat meadows of Cartisoara, across the snow-capped Fagaras mountain peaks, through a spooky 887-metre tunnel, past gushing waterfalls, mountain lakes and that's all before you get to the best bit: the unbelievable snaking descent with more u-turns, corners, cambers, twists and turns than seems humanly possible. The grand finale passes Poenari, the ruined castle on a crag belonging to Vlad the Impaler, the 13th century inspiration for Dracula. The road was constructed by the Romanian army who took five years to complete Nicolae Ceausescu's demonic plan. The Transfagarasan Highway, the second highest in Europe, opened in 1974 and is legendary among bikers for being the best route on the Continent, if not Planet Earth! Ceausescu must be spinning in his grave!
Route 7C
Turn off the E68 Sibiu to Brasov main road just after Scoreiu. The turning is marked for the village of Cartisoara.
The road stretches from Cartisoara in the north to Curtea de Arges and is only open June to October.
Google map: bit.ly/kTU7Wn
It is what it says, and doesn't seem to have a name. Its claim to be included here is that, although most of the books were in Romanian, or (in fact a majority) Hungarian, I found a Broons album there!
Up some steps in a courtyard off the Calea Repubblica, the main (pedestrian) shopping street in Oradea.
because there is a huge but blistered and blemished and fading mural on the brick wall, crying out in its neglect to be documented but there's a nasty little man in a blue 'security' suit who'll jump out and shout at you if you do and tell you to wipe that smile and those photos off of your chip but he's stupid as well as small so just agree and pretend and look compliant and submissive and go away and when you ask the hotel manager are there any restrictions on taking photos in markets he'll say "No"..."that's funny 'cos i got shouted at in Obor market" "ah Obor market yes no photos allowed in Obor market".
Nearby there is a great warren of stalls selling plumbing bits and bobs and stuff. Very relaxing.
Sos Colentina.
Nearest metro - Obor
Google map: bit.ly/b46obu
A town in Romania that is easily accessible by train and then lets you travel to Hunedoara and Densus and to the Dacian and Roman ruins.
If you do nothing else then visit Densus Church. This is a church built out of ruins with real purpose and out of this has come something fantastic and moving. The man (priest?) in the house next door to the church will let you inside.
I stayed at Hotel Deva and ate at the Restaurant Castelo by the Citadel.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deva,_Romania
Google map: tinyurl.com/34kd49n
Sibiu, while attractive, is actually the largest town in the area. To get a real feel for the region you must stay at Copsamare Guesthouses in Copsamare, two km from Biertan (UNESCO Site) and 45 from Sibiu. This charming guesthouse opened last year and has a combo that's hard to find in this region: good clean service in a B&B that has been built fully respecting local traditions of handicraft and architecture. By staying there you are also contributing to the revival of building techniques handed down through generations of local craftsmen which had almost died out under Ceaucescu. It's also a great spot to relax while walking to other villages in the area, each one has a fortified church with a different unique feature, the door in Biertan, the icon in Malancrav and the sprawling museum in Mosna. The guesthouse is very well run, a welcome relief in Romania, and each guest feels well cared for. Indulge in delicious meals made with homegrown vegetables guilt-free as then you can walk them off in the rolling hills between the villages.
www.copsamare.ro
+40746046200
copsamare@gmail.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/yjl3kba
At this fantastic festival you can combine a few days of watching feature films and documentaries on outdoor and indoor screens with sunbathing on the Black Sea beaches or boat trips on the beautiful delta. Watch out for the pelicans and other bird life. Whether in a chalets or camping, insect repellant essential. Previous festivals have been opened by Ken Loach and Peter Greenaway. The Stufstock Rock festival usually happens immediately after and further along the coast so doing two festivals is possible.
The village of Sfantu Gheorghe(Saint George) in the Danube Delta, accessible only by boat.
www.festival-anonimul.ro/festival_info_en
www.stufstock.com
Near Cluj-Napoca, the village of Negreni ('Fekete to' in Hungarian) transforms into a vast open-air market on the second weekend of October. People arrive from far and wide to eat spicy sausages, drink lethal fruit brandies and catch up with gossip. It's a great place to find ancient musical instruments, crafts, antiques and local colourful characters.
Negreni (Fekete to)
25km west of Huedin on route 1/E60.
Buses and trains from Cluj-Napoca will be packed at fair time. Try hiring a car.
Built in the 18th century by General Buccow and given to the Brukenthal family, it was their summer residence for many years. The Brukenthal Foundation are trying to restore the palace and most easterly Baroque garden in Europe and it's possible to visit the grounds.
Located on the busy E68 Sibiu-Brasov highway.
Open Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, admission free but donations towards restoration welcome
If the Dracula hysteria of the main square in Sighisoara's citadel gets a bit overwhelming (which it can do when the tourists hit the 'Dracula cafe' in summer) nip along a back street towards the Covered Stairway and you'll find the excellent, peaceful terrace of the Casa Cositorarului. Good juices, coffee, cakes and sandwiches. A bit more pricey than some in the lower town but worth it.
Casa Cositorarului
Str. Cositorarilor 9
Sept-May open daily 9am--10pm
June-Aug open daily 9am--midnight
This friendly cyber cafe recently moved location but it is still conveniently situated in the centre of Brasov and continues to provide a great selection of hot and alcoholic drinks. The staff are always on hand to assist customers with xerox, CD burner, card reader, colour printer etc). The internet costs 3RON per hour which is great value.
Cyber Cafe
Str. Republicii 58
Brasov
mobile 0729 589 618
open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 12.30pm-9pm
Danut Marin leads tour groups around the stunning region located by the Piatra Craiului National Park (near Brasov). He is an incredibly knowledgable guide (and won Wanderlust mag's guide of the year 2007) and points out bear tracks, wolf prints and birds soaring high above the mountain forests. Dan's wife prepares delicious home cooked meals with jams and herbal teas and it's possible to stay in elegant, renovated guest rooms.
A real gem.
Danut & Luminita's guesthouse is in Zarnesti, Brasov County, Romania.
www.transylvanianwolf.ro
Brasov is a good base for accomodation, offering more than 200 places for budget level, a good nightlife special on weekends and good restaurants with affordable prices. A beer is 1 pound, a meal is less than 10 pounds, accomodation 10 pounds a night a person, a ski day 20 pounds, including equipment rental and lift passes.
Brasov, Romania
Brasov is a good base for accomodation, offering more than 200 places for budget level, a good nightlife special on weekends and good restaurants with affordable prices. A beer is 1 pound, a meal is less than 10 pounds, accomodation 10 pounds a night a person, a ski day 20 pounds, including equipment rental and lift passes.
GARLICIA TRAVEL AGENCY, Brasov, Romania
E:office.garlicia@yahoo.com
M: 004(0)-0722.542.581
This is the medieval castle, often referred to as Dracula's Castle. But it is not only interesting for horror fans; built in 1377 it’s a true art treasure.
Built to protect from invaders it became a royal residence in 1920.
Take your time and enjoy the view of the castle; it sits high on top of a tall rock, overlooking the picturesque village. Inside you can have a look at a rich collection of Romanian and foreign furniture and art items from the 14th-19th centuries.
Location: the village of Bran, 16 miles southwest of Brasov.
Open: Tuesday through Sunday, from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
In the 19th century French architecture was very envogue. The city features a lot of large neoclassical buildings, parks and its own Arch de Triomphe.
It was built in 1922 to honour the bravery of Romanian soldiers who fought in World War I. In 1936 it was finished in granite. It’s 85 feet high and there is an interior staircase allowing you to climb upstairs and enjoy a phenomenal view of the city.
Piata Arcul de Triumf
Be aware that Sighisoara train station does not have a sign so you need to have counted the stops and/or noticed Dumbraveni at the prior stop. Short walk to the citadel. Go out of the station turn right onto the main street and then left down the first junction. Keep on walking down here to the bottom past the Russian War Memorial and through the flats. Then across the footbridge over the river.
You can now turn right and walk up the steps - steep. Or turn left and walk into the old town and enter the citadel through the easier main entrance at the clock tower.
Nice bar, old, that shows the sports channels and serves a very fine burger - real mince and wholemeal roll. And a half-litre bottle of beer at 5 LEI.
Bottom of the old citadel, on past Jo Bar in the direction of the river. On your left just before your turn right for the bank of shops that includes the CFR.
Just a tip about buying a ticket and recognising the train. This site is ace for planning times reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/e.
Worth writing down the journey details and the Romanian for 'first-class ticket' and handing it over - no English spoken at the train station when I was there. But the Lonely Planet guide came to the rescue.
Once you have found the platform watch out. The noticeboard flagged two separate trains - one to Targa Mures and one to Bucharest. The Bucharest train stops at Sighisoara.
But the trains appear to arrive joined as one - late. So it can be confusing.
What seems to happen is that the first-class carriage is always carriage three.
If you are on the same train as me be prepared for 50 year-old rolling stock in first class.
The scenery is fantastic. Ranging from the awesome pollution of Copsa Mica to shepherds and their flocks.
Str. Garii 1-3
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