- Moscow
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Russia
A relatively new blog from someone who is based in Moscow and has a great 'take' on the city.
Moscow's oddest museum, in a hollowed-out apartment block. Miles away from artefacts in glass cases, the chaotic, agitprop presentation attempts to tell the story of the poet's life while simultaneously create the experience of walking around Mayakovkiy's head in full creative flow.
It is a vegetarian restaurant and health food store in the heart of Moscow. Hidden on Kutznetsky Mostly it provides a hippy breathing space from the glitz and glamour of Tverskaya's high street cuisine. Last time I visited it, there were two options: crusty cafe or refined restaurant dining. Preference is determined by price. I went for the crusty and it was good. Although after spending a year living out in Moscow and missing the chickpeas, any place like this would seem Heaven on Earth. It is well worth checking out though.
Address: 11 Ul. Kuznetsky Most
Metro: Kuznetsky Most
WWW: www.jagannath.ru
This is a local tour company who provide everything from walks around the Kremlin to weekends away at the 'Golden Ring' towns. The guides are knowledgable, English speaking locals and it's a very friendly and reasonably priced service.
Venedikt Yerofeev's brilliant novel weaves drunkenly around Moscow's environs.
Peters walking tours in St Petersburg are fantastic - tour guides are knowledgeable and friendly. They take you off the usual tourist trail, visiting places that aren't in your guide book, visit local cafes and use public transport to get about. These things all add to the experience and give you something that most Brisitsh tourists wouldn't be able to achieve for themselves. The tour guides tailor make the tour to suit customers and give lots of historical and political information as well as answering questions
I stayed at the Comrade hostel in Moscow last April. It's a tiny hostel, but most of them are. I'm led to believe that hostels need to pay fees to the Mafia, so people run really small places that look like apartments with no signs outside. This is no exception and doesn't have a sign outside, just a tiny hostelworld/bookers sticker on the door.
The guy who runs the place is incredibly helpful, however, and booked our train tickets for us - a difficult feat for people who don't speak Russian and was happy to give advice. He even took some of the other guests out for lunch and on a train journey day trip. The place is clean, but basic, the real draw are the staff (really just one guy - terribly I can't remember his name).
The location is fantastic - about five minutes walk from Red Square.
Comrade Hostel - Maroseyka street 11, 3rd floor, 101000
It's offered by lots of restaurants in Russia now and it has no Russian translation - they use the English phrase 'business lunch'. You get three courses - salad, soup and main - served up in less than half an hour. There will be a few choices for each course, so for the main you might choose chicken or beef or fish with rice or potatoes. It's speedy, fresh, light and a new-ish Russian institution.
Popular in restaurants in central Moscow and in other city centres
You can check the Russian rail timetables and book tickets online now. Nice to see some progress - getting tickets used to be a nightmare!
I used this site for my Trans Siberian tickets. You can book any tickets for travel inside Russia or to neighbouring countries.
A restaurant at the central house of journalists. Cosy surroundings, attentive staff and a great menu of food from Russia and CIS with what has got to be a truly delicious dessert: strekoza.
8A Nikitskii Bulvar
921-2222
Metro station: Arbatskaya
Boutique hostel right in the centre of Moscow. Walking distance from all the main sites. In a city with crazy hotel prices, this is a great little option. It's in a converted communal apartment (but with all mod cons) so you feel like you're staying in the 'real' Moscow rather than a soulless chain hotel. V friendly and helpful staff complete the homely experience.
Petrovka Street 17/2, Moscow, www.petrovkaloft.com
It sounds like a romantic way to cross the vast open spaces of Russia, leaving Moscow one evening and awaking to the Romanov's splendid Baroque capital. However the beds are cramped and uncomfortable, the train rattles far too much to get much sleep, and the toilets are disgusting. There was a certain charm to watching snow-covered fields and forests pass by in the half-light, but I suspect the view (particularly of a vast lake at one point) would have been all the more stunning during the day, and I wouldn't have felt like a zombie the day after.
Leningradsky Station, Moscow
All-American diner in the heart of Moscow (several locations). Great value breakfasts with unlimited coffee, free English-language papers and CNN.
Several outlets across the city.
www.starlite.ru/index2.html
This small museum houses a massively worthwhile exhibition. Though it's virtually all in Russian, I would also encourage non Russian-speakers to visit. If you know something about GULAG already, you'll find the artefacts and artworks fascinating. If you are visiting Moscow and don't know anything about GULAG; you need to learn. I was made to feel very welcome and given a personal guided tour.
16, Petrovka St.
museum-gulag.narod.ru/
It's right in front of Bolshoi theatre in Moscow. This hotel is like 100% pure Russia. It's decorated by the famous Russian painter Vrubel, and they also house one of the best restaurants in Moscow. Once this was the place where Rasputin made his famous Moscow's "pir" - big "out of rules' party.
1/4 Teatralny proezd, Moscow, Russia,
www.city-of-hotels.com/168/legendary-hotels-en/metropol-moscow-en.html
metropol-moscow.ru/en/
Assuming you can get a flight, there is still some cheap accommodation in Moscow.
The Voschod Hotel say they have doubles available for 2,400 rubles per night (about £25 each). Be prepared for a very basic facility though. The Hotel Sovietsky (a deliciously kitsch venue just north of the Garden Ring) have rooms for 7,200 rubles - £156. The Warsaw Hotel has singles for 4,300 rubles (about £94) and doubles for 6,250 (about £135 or £68 each). Like Home Apartments have flats available before and after the match.
And if you need a visa try Real Russia: they’re among the cheapest, and you’ll be able to track progress of your application online.
voschod.ru/en/
www.sovietsky.ru
Warsaw Hotel - tel: 495 238 7701
www.likehome.ru
www.realrussia.co.uk
Fantastic hostel in an unbeatable location within a stone's throw of the Kremlin and Red Square. Experience the decidedly un-Chinese Kitay-Gorod (Chinatown) area of Moscow for only 700рб per night. Can issue visa invitations too.
Maliy Zlatoustinskiy, Moscow 101000
+74956286695
www.napoleonhostel.com
It's a five star hotel which has a bar called the Conservatory on the top floor. The service is excellent and the atmosphere is very relaxed. The cosmopolitans are some of the best in Moscow.
4 Ulitsa Neglinnaya
It's quirky decorated, but very small and cosy. Stayed there on my last trip to Moscow. Only two rooms, but very central and cheap. Great alternative to hotels as much cheaper. Nice staff and great location.
www.flamingobed.com
metro: mayakovskaya
Me and my girlfriend (we are a lesbian couple) traveled from Moscow to Ekaterinburg, and on to Volgograd. The trip was amazing. We were a bit worried about traveling without male company, but I must say Russia is one of the friendliest and untouristy places I've ever been.
It is a big advantage to know some Russian. Outside of Moscow we met nobody who spoke English. I found Moscow very stressful and expensive. It was the least pleasant city we visited. Our next stop was Kazan, the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan. I highly recommend Kazan. It's an old, beautiful and exotic city with a mix of Tatars and Russes living there. The atmosphere was far more relaxed than in Moscow.
Kazan offers great mosques, and is the Muslim centre of Russia. It's a great place to relax and stroll about. This city has some stunning sights, including the UNESCO listed Kreml.
Our next stop was Ekaterinburg. We were told that it was situated in the Ural mountains, but we never saw a glimpse of them. Nevertheless; Ekaterinburg is a very pleasant and chilled city. It has a very western feeling to it. It's easy to find western food, as there's plenty of Irish pubs there. I recommend going to the Altay building. There you can take a lift and see the city from the rooftop. It's quite stunning. There's plenty of theatres all around the city, and even though you don't understand Russian, don't miss the opportunity to catch local theatre-troops.
A great place (although hard to find) to stay is the guesthouse called Academy of Geology. It's peaceful and has beautiful rooms.
From Ekaterinburg we went south to Ufa. Ufa is the capital of the Republic of Bashkortostan. Ufa was quite hard to get around, but it is still worth a visit. You can visit one of Lenin's homes and spot some unique architecture. The atmosphere in Ufa is, like in Kazan, very different from the Russian cities. I highly recommend the Azimut hotel (Bus stop Gore Moskva). It's a business hotel with great standards and a friendly staff.
On to Volgograd. Volgograd is probably one of the most beautiful cities I've been to. Situated on the banks of the Volga river with an almost tropical climate, it almost feels like you're in Greece. This is a city of history. The name Stalingrad might ring a bell. The most stunning thing to see in Volgograd is the huge Mother Russia statue. It's the highest statue in the world (72 m). It's an unbelievable sight when you compare it to a church that stands beside it. It looks more like a doll's church.
I also recommend the Stalingrad Battle museum, and the Volga river cruises. There are plenty of offers. Volgograd was really easy to get around in. The city centre is quite small, and it's easy to navigate because of the river. The Volgograd Hotel is cheap and amazing.
We had a wonderful time in Russia. My girlfriend knows some Russian and that came in extremely handy. We got quite used to people looking at us, but we never felt threatened or harassed. The most common comment we got from other women was that we were brave to travel by ourselves.
One thing that is difficult however, is buying train tickets. You will need to write down the information for the train you are going on, how many tickets you need, and what kind of cupee you want. And prepare for long lines. It might take hours to get your tickets. We always went in a 4-people compartment. It was a great way to travel. We shared compartments with so many different people, and it was a great way to get to know Russians. It's important to bring some food or beverage to share.
Girls; go to Russia. It is a fascinating place....
Is this your business?Search Been there
