How the Rwandan people and government come to terms with the continuing legacy of the brutality of its genocide, I can't begin to understand, but this is a beautiful country working hard to respectfully move on, and deserves visiting.

Land reforms mean that much of the countryside is cleared and parcelled up into small subsistence plots even high on the hillsides and there is schooling and a fair health service. Many people still have to walk miles for clean water on a daily basis. The schools and missions will welcome any low-tech articles or equipment you can manage to bring.

The main attractions are the huge swathes of majestic protected temperate mountain rain forest around Nyungwe that are ideal for trekking and wildlife, with small government guest houses for tourists providing simple but delightful stays, and the chance to hire enthusiastic and knowledgeable local guides to see the best of them.

More famous are the Mountain Gorillas in the north, which despite the cost are truly amazing to meet being so close to humans in all they do.

Kigali itself is a modest and attractive capital spread over several hills. There are plenty of areas of poor housing, but vibrant markets, a few good museums and a pretty safe and pleasant atmosphere. It's central to most of the places to visit being a small nation, and there are good tour companies who can organise outings of however many days and to which parts you want.

Before leaving spend an hour at the genocide museum to add perspective to its colonial roots and comparisons with the many similar events worldwide. Rwanda isn't alone.