This small hotel is a 10 minute tough slog from the Place de l'Unite National in what is actually a middle class neighbourhood, despite the dusty look. The young staff, led by John, are really friendly while John himself is a bit of a star with his links to the likes of Amahoro Tours for gorilla trekking etc. The food takes a while but is decent and the views across the valley are lovely. All this for $55 a night!

step-town.com/
Kiyovu, Kigali, Rwanda near St Famille
(+250) 252 500 042
Google map: bit.ly/oh0yA7

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Though they originally wanted $90 USD a night, when we showed them that the Lonely Planet 2009 guidebook said they only charge $46, they matched the price. From the moment we walked in the door to the time we left, we felt like they were trying to hussle us. The cable TV they advertise is actually one channel and it wasn’t in English. They advertised Wifi, and it worked, but only sitting behind the reception desk. And every request – from an extra towel to a fan (also advertised) for the room - was a major burden to them. After three months on the road in East Africa, the Okapi gets the award for the worst value.

BP 1775 Kigali, Kigali, Rwanda

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Well-located in the town centre to walk around the markets and museum, and close to the spaciously gardened embassies.

A bit dated but a nice pool and secluded grounds. Service is good and the Panorama restaurant on top has great views over the relatively quiet and modest town centre.

Try to get a garden-facing room as the others are a bit noisy. Inevitably full of challenging history.

In the old town centre on one of the '1000 hills', 30 minutes' taxi from airport. www.millecollines.net/

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