Well-located in the town centre to walk around the markets and museum, and close to the spaciously gardened embassies.
A bit dated but a nice pool and secluded grounds. Service is good and the Panorama restaurant on top has great views over the relatively quiet and modest town centre.
Try to get a garden-facing room as the others are a bit noisy. Inevitably full of challenging history.
In the old town centre on one of the '1000 hills', 30 minutes' taxi from airport. www.millecollines.net/
As well as the over visited mountain gorillas at Virunga Volcanoes on the Uganda/Congo border, which are magical, there's Africa’s largest unspoilt and beautiful mountain forest at Nyungwe, with gruelling treks with local guides to see all manner of wildlife including marauding chimps.
1970s Belgian hotel architecture, with a nice garden and pool right in the centre of Kigalli, redolent with its recent history as a refuge in the genocide. The rooftop restaurant has fabulous views of the city, very good food and service and is reasonably priced
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