Well-located in the town centre to walk around the markets and museum, and close to the spaciously gardened embassies.

A bit dated but a nice pool and secluded grounds. Service is good and the Panorama restaurant on top has great views over the relatively quiet and modest town centre.

Try to get a garden-facing room as the others are a bit noisy. Inevitably full of challenging history.

In the old town centre on one of the '1000 hills', 30 minutes' taxi from airport. www.millecollines.net/

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As well as the over visited mountain gorillas at Virunga Volcanoes on the Uganda/Congo border, which are magical, there's Africa’s largest unspoilt and beautiful mountain forest at Nyungwe, with gruelling treks with local guides to see all manner of wildlife including marauding chimps.

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