Though they originally wanted $90 USD a night, when we showed them that the Lonely Planet 2009 guidebook said they only charge $46, they matched the price. From the moment we walked in the door to the time we left, we felt like they were trying to hussle us. The cable TV they advertise is actually one channel and it wasn’t in English. They advertised Wifi, and it worked, but only sitting behind the reception desk. And every request – from an extra towel to a fan (also advertised) for the room - was a major burden to them. After three months on the road in East Africa, the Okapi gets the award for the worst value.

BP 1775 Kigali, Kigali, Rwanda

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Well-located in the town centre to walk around the markets and museum, and close to the spaciously gardened embassies.

A bit dated but a nice pool and secluded grounds. Service is good and the Panorama restaurant on top has great views over the relatively quiet and modest town centre.

Try to get a garden-facing room as the others are a bit noisy. Inevitably full of challenging history.

In the old town centre on one of the '1000 hills', 30 minutes' taxi from airport. www.millecollines.net/

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As well as the over visited mountain gorillas at Virunga Volcanoes on the Uganda/Congo border, which are magical, there's Africa’s largest unspoilt and beautiful mountain forest at Nyungwe, with gruelling treks with local guides to see all manner of wildlife including marauding chimps.

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1970s Belgian hotel architecture, with a nice garden and pool right in the centre of Kigalli, redolent with its recent history as a refuge in the genocide. The rooftop restaurant has fabulous views of the city, very good food and service and is reasonably priced

www.millecollines.net/

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