Singapore loves to do champagne brunch on a Sunday, and it has become something of an institution with most of the big hotels serving it. You get a buffet selection that includes seafood, sushi, cooked breakfast, roast dinner, dim sum, cheese and several deserts and the champagne is free-flowing. Set aside at least three hours and make sure you haven’t got anything to do for the rest of the day. I had a fabulous brunch at the Fullerton, which has wonderful views across the river. They serve from 12pm until 3.30pm with unlimited champagne until 3pm and a total cost of about £60 per person.

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If you think that going to dinner in a hotel is tantamount to some kind of defeat, swallow your pride, and go for it in Singapore. Morton’s in the Mandarin Oriental is a genuinely great hotel restaurant. It may be an American chain but, when every guide book tells you that it will be one of the finest dining experiences of your life, they’re not lying. Its atmosphere is vibrant, the beef extraordinary, the service flawless and the wine list award-winning. Steak fans are kept very happy, and the menu also features veal, chicken, seafood and fantastic sides: fresh green asparagus with hollandaise, creamed spinach, sautéed mushrooms, and several versions of the humble potato are all perfectly prepared and plentiful.

Dessert is a must, particularly one of the soufflés or the hot chocolate cake.

Mandarin Oriental, 5 Raffles Avenue, Marina Square, Singapore 039797 Tel: +65 6338 0066 Fax: +65 6339 9537
mandarinoriental.com

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If Japanese is your cuisine of choice, then try Nogawa at Le Meridien on Orchard Road. Named after legendary chef Yoshio Nogawa – who has delivered a production line of talented Japanese chefs on the island – his eatery serves the freshest, scrummiest sushi, sashimi, tempura and teriyaki in the region. The menu varies with the seasons but the quality is consistently high. His other restaurants in the city – Akane and Nogawa at the Sentosa Golf Club – are also brilliant.

Le Meridien, 100 Orchard Road, Singapore 238840
+65 6733 8855
starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien

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For a less mainstream dining experience – and one outside a hotel – try IndoChine Waterfront at the Asian Civilisations Museum. It’s located in the most romantic setting in town, with lovely views of the river; has an amazing décor with oriental antiques and modern furniture; and its Vietnamese-Laotian-Cambodian-French fusion cuisine is just gorgeous. Things to try: seafood galangal soup, black pepper beef, grilled scallops and basil chicken. The service can be slipshod but the food’s good enough to forgive them. After dinner, stop by the adjacent Bar Opiume; a super-stylish spot that's popular for cocktails and celebrity sightings.

Asian Civilisations Museum, The Historic District, 1 Empress Place
65/6339-1720

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Two great Chinese restaurants are Hua Ting – in the Orchard Hotel – and Iggy’s – inside the Regent Hotel. Both have won a host of international awards. The former specialises in rare Cantonese dishes - bird's nest, preserved egg, fish maw and other dried seafood may sound hideous but they’re actually delicious. The latter has a German chef and his mastery of the art of Chinese cooking is impressive – his sea scallop topped with foie gras purée and yuzu juice is divine.

Hua Ting, 442 Orchard Road, Singapore
Iggy's, 1 Cuscaden Road 249715, Singapore

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Singaporeans can be brusque but they will warm to you if you take an interest in their fantastic food. We seemed to be eating round the clock when we were there. Kopi Tiams (coffee shops) open until the wee hours and it's not uncommon to go out for a meal after a midnight film in Singapore.

Singaporeans often greet each other by asking "Have you eaten?" and you will endear yourself to the locals by enquiring if they have had their "makan" (food) as well. We visited a great restaurant called The Rice Table, where Indonesian Dutch rijsttafel was served. There'll be no awkward silences because everyone is too busy stuffing their faces with the never-ending stream of satay, otak, and curries that arrive. The moment one dish is finished, just ask for another at no extra charge. And the price is incredibly reasonable.

The Rice Table. 360 Orchard Rd., #02-09/10 International Building Tel: 65/6835-3783Lunch set S$15 (US$9.80/£5.05); dinner set S$23 (US$15/£7.65)

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It's one of the best places in Singapore to eat crab - chilli pepper, butter, in soup, steamed, in butter and pepper. The last time I went there we also had the fish, which was a great surprise because it was so well cooked.

Ang Mo Kio Ave 1
I can't remember the block number, but taxis and people staying in the area will know it.

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My recommendations are always carry an umbrella, get a Tote a Luxe Guide, visit the Night Safari and to stay at The Scarlet: excellent location and contemporary decor at a value.

Also, eat at the food stalls and buy a Makansutra if you can find it, or read the Calvin Trillin article in the New Yorker to determine which food stalls to visit.

If you're flying in and out of Changi, and just staying overnight, stay at the Changi Village Hotel. Check out the shops on 33 Erskine Road. Treat yourself to a foot massage in Chinatown.

Full trip report with photos at: www.travelmusings.net

www.thescarlethotel.com

www.nightsafari.com.sg

www.changivillage.com.sg

www.makansutra.com/index.php

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A cosy and inviting French restaurant in the art district of Waterloo Street serving excellent food and a good wine selection. Cocktails in the alfresco courtyard and dine in comfort in a private bungalow.

42 Waterloo Street Singapore 187951
Tel: 65-62388682
www.lepontdevie.com.sg

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Excellent new French restaurant - fine cuisine at reasonable prices in a wonderful location and good service too.

Waterloo Street 42, Tel: 6238-8682

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Does the most fantastic pepper crab. Most taxi drivers will have heard of the place or take the MRT to the nearest stop, Aljunied, it's a three minute walk from the station.

50 Stadium Blvd Singapore 397796,
near Aljunied MRT Station

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Excellent value, very traditional Indian restaurant in lovely colonial building. Makes a refreshing change from the squeaky clean eateries located in high traffic areas, this is actually in a nice green spot off Dempsey Road and is really peaceful at nighttime. You will be stuffed for a fiver (sterling) and add drinks to that.

Dempsey Road, just ask a cab driver. Should be less than 8 SGD from anywhere central, only a few minutes from olland village.

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Great Vietnamese restaurant. The owner has expanded so there must be about 20 of them dotted around the island but the original one was the cutest, in an old colonial house in Waterloo Street, though it now seems to have closed down.

www.indochine.com.sg

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