The Slovak tourist board is based in Banska Bystrica, one of the most fun towns in Slovakia, and has lots of information on campsites all over the undiscovered countryside.

www.sacr.sk

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The museum of the Slovak National Uprising is a very haunting and moving record of a particularly brave time, put down mercilessly and brutally during late 1944. Banska Bystrica is an attractive town, liberated on March 26 1945, and has decent food, cheap hotels, and excellent beer, and a number of attractions both near and in surrounding communities. Strongly recommended. Just off the main square, through the arch, and turn left past the aeroplanes and military equipment.

Bargain your hotel rates locally, rather than booking in advance. Passable German helps, though some English is spoken.

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Banska Bystrica is right in the heart of the Slovak countryside. Trains depart from Bratislava or Budapest (www.busy.sk or www.elvira.hu). Flights to Sliac airport nearby.

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The SNP museum is unique architecturally (it looks a bit like a deep pan pizza sliced down the middle!) and the exhibits are fascinating.

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