Granada, Cordoba, Sevilla? Of course. But try Almeria, a city with friendly people, wide avenues, an impressive alcazaba, a fortified cathedral and a long beach.

And, if you don't know where to stay or eat, look no further than the Plaza de las Flores, a Torreluz hegemony. In this tiny square (no flowers I'm afraid) Torreluz gives its name to a four-star hotel, a two-star hotel (which we thought very good value for money, but try and get a room overlooking the square), a separate block of apartments, an upmarket restaurant, a very acceptable modern cafeteria where guests of the two-star hotel take their breakfasts (which were very good) and, best of all, a traditional bodega full of atmosphere and people, who spilled out onto the square, serving good value and good quality dishes. All you want in one square right in the centre of town.

Plaza de las Torres, near Puerta de Purchena, the main square, Almeria. Torreluz enterprises etc

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This Natural Park is superb in spring. Good weather, no cars and good roads. Accommodation easy and staggeringly cheap to find on line.

Keep 20k south of Mojacar and explore along the coast. www.holiday-rentals.com and www.typicalish.com are good sites.
Maps for any trip from Stanfords in Long Acre - can't beat them.

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The 16th century cathedral in Almeria is unique because of its appearance as a fortress built to defend the city against raiding Turkish and North African pirates. Its corner towers once held cannons. The interior is just like the inside of any other cathedral though - but is no less disappointing for that.

Plaza de la Catedral
Entry fee is 2 euros.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm

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The fortress (or Alcazaba) is a tremendous triumph of Moorish architecture which towers over the once independant kingdom of Almeria. The old city walls can be clearly seen branching across the mountain down to the suburbs of modern Almeria. It is much better than the Alcazaba at Málaga - with three huge walled enclosures, in the second of which are the remains of a mosque. The views down to the coast are amazing.

Plaza de Joaquin Santisteban
Entry is free to EU citizens (passport needed), otherwise 1.50 euros.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 9am-8.30pm (Oct-March closes 6.30pm)

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Alta Mar is right on the harbour front at AguaDulce, 20 minutes from Almeria, nestled among interesting bars (Free Amigos with Peter) and other more touristy ice cream parlours and noisy cafes, it is easy to see the class and quality of its owners and meals.

It's worth a trip for the fantastic mediterranean cuisine, 70 euros for two, the finest Spanish wine, amazing mozzarella salad starter, freshest sea bass which would give Gordon Ramsay a run for his money (and no F-word) and the finest chocolate pudding cooked specially in the oven for 12 minutes.

My mouth waters at returning there, oh, and the most charming Dutch/English owner and free drinks to follow. A find.

Puerto deportive de Aguadulce tel:950347740

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