The 16th century cathedral in Almeria is unique because of its appearance as a fortress built to defend the city against raiding Turkish and North African pirates. Its corner towers once held cannons. The interior is just like the inside of any other cathedral though - but is no less disappointing for that.

Plaza de la Catedral
Entry fee is 2 euros.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm

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The fortress (or Alcazaba) is a tremendous triumph of Moorish architecture which towers over the once independant kingdom of Almeria. The old city walls can be clearly seen branching across the mountain down to the suburbs of modern Almeria. It is much better than the Alcazaba at Málaga - with three huge walled enclosures, in the second of which are the remains of a mosque. The views down to the coast are amazing.

Plaza de Joaquin Santisteban
Entry is free to EU citizens (passport needed), otherwise 1.50 euros.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 9am-8.30pm (Oct-March closes 6.30pm)

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Alta Mar is right on the harbour front at AguaDulce, 20 minutes from Almeria, nestled among interesting bars (Free Amigos with Peter) and other more touristy ice cream parlours and noisy cafes, it is easy to see the class and quality of its owners and meals.

It's worth a trip for the fantastic mediterranean cuisine, 70 euros for two, the finest Spanish wine, amazing mozzarella salad starter, freshest sea bass which would give Gordon Ramsay a run for his money (and no F-word) and the finest chocolate pudding cooked specially in the oven for 12 minutes.

My mouth waters at returning there, oh, and the most charming Dutch/English owner and free drinks to follow. A find.

Puerto deportive de Aguadulce tel:950347740

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