Spain
To fully appreciate the beauty of Baeza there is a short but illuminating walk to be done. Walk through the Puerta de Jaén off the Plaza de Leones, go along the Paseo Muralles (following the route of the old city walls) around the edge of Baeza. From this street there are fantastic views of the surrounding plains and the mountains of Cazorla national park. Cut back to the Plaza Mayor via the stone-walled arched alleyways which hide behind the Cathedral.
This grand palace (now a seminary) is a monumental mansion famed for it's "Isabelline" façade which contains a Moorish influence. The patio is a great place to rest.
A 15 min walk from the Plaza Mayor in Baeza. It is clearly signposted from there. Entry is free (tip recommended)
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 10am-1pm and 4-6pm
Baeza's cathedral is probably the most under-appreciated in
Andalucía, which in a way is a shame as the façade is so intricately designed. Inside the building itself are brillianely painted 16th century rejas (iron screens) created by Maestro Bartolomé - the master of this craft. Part of the old mosque over which the cathedral was built can be seen in the cloister.
Plaza Mayor, Baeza
Entry is free (a tip is optional)
Opening hours: daily from 10.30am-1pm and 4-6pm (April-Sept closes 7pm)
The Plaza Mayor and the nearby Plaza de Leones is the heart of the town and the point for showing off the stunning Renaissance buildings which surround the renowned cobbled square. Eighteenth century fountains add a calm air to the square as well.
The Plaza Mayor and Plaza de Leones is a mere 10 min walk from Baeza's bus station. Both are clearly signposted.
Baeza is a tiny treasure jewel a mere 30 mins from Jaén buried in the hills of the Cazorla national park. It is crammed full of Renaissance masterpieces and is definitely my second most favourite of Andalucía's sleepy little towns (after Alcalá la Real). The most beautiful sights to see are: Plaza Mayor/Plaza de Leones, Palacio de Jabalquinto and the Cathedral. The best thing is that all of Baeza's great monuments are free to get into (although a tip to the guardian is recommended) and the spectacular views cost nothing!. It is basically a great town to get lost in and absorb it's splendour.
Baeza is situated 28km to the east of Jaén and is served by 14 daily buses from Jaén. There is also the combined train station of Linares-Baeza (14km from Baeza) which is served by frequent trains from Seville, Córdoba and Granada, there is a connecting bus to Baeza for most trains, (except on Sun) or it's 14 euros in a taxi.
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