One of Barcelona’s several traditional candle shops and located at number 5 since 1826. There are the traditional votary candles, fancy ones for baptisms and communions, candles you have personalised with your loved-ones names, anti-mosquito candles and modern designs to tempt the traveller. Gallisa also sells religious figurines and the traditional Christmas statuettes.

Cardenal Casañas, 5, 08002, Barcelona
+39(0)93 302 69 87
www.gallissa.com/
+39 93 302 69 87

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This gallery has some very interesting work at reasonable prices. In fact, there’s almost always something I fancy in there. A lot of the work has Barcelona as a theme, so, if you’re looking for a piece of artwork to take home as a reminder of your trip, this is a good place to stop in. Pieces by Joan Farré show the city in a different light, in a way reminiscent of the old hand-tinted photos you used to see years ago but at the same time, absolutely modern. The Gallery also has old prints, books and a great collection of small pieces on Barcelona scenes, ideal for a gift or as a token of your trip.

www.sennacheribbo.es/
Enrique Granados, 106 (e/ parís y córcega), 08008 Barcelona
+3493 368 87 78
Google map: bit.ly/iuZh1P

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After spending two weeks in arty, alternative Gràcia it’s now my favourite Barcelona barrio. Predominantly a working class area, its residents are largely university students, artists, musicians, and designers, which explains the abundance of art galleries, boutiques, ateliers, and music stores that line the narrow lanes. It’s a living breathing neighbourhood with plenty to do if you like eating, drinking, shopping, and hanging out in cafés, bars, and sunny squares. It’s a good fifteen-minute walk to Plaça de Catalunya, although you can catch the underground train and it’s faster, but this means you’ll rarely see a tourist in Gràcia, which is what I like most about it. It’s not far from posh L’Eixample, where there are chic shops and some of Barcelona’s best restaurants, and it’s close to Park Güell, which is a short hike (or bus ride) up the hill.

Google map: bit.ly/jjAPGY

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Most guidebooks will tell you to avoid certain parts of Barcelona during afternoon siesta when everything is closed, but for me this is the best time to wander around the neighbourhoods of Ribera-El Born, Barrio Gótico (Gothic Quarter), Raval, and Gràcia, when the shops and bars are closed and their shutters have been pulled down, because many are decorated with striking street art. While some view street art as graffiti, it’s actually not at all in this case – the owners of the stores actually commission Barcelona’s street artists to paint their shutters and garage doors. If you like what you see, head to the Montana Gallery and shop to learn more about the scene.

Carrer Comerç, 6 08003 Barcelona
(+34) 932 680 191
www.montanagallerybarcelona.com/
Google map: bit.ly/msG2DH

A good site on Barcelona's street art: www.bcngraffiti.com/

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I recommend these summer courses as a great way to study creative art and design subjects in Europe, across two of the most exciting and dynamic cities, offered by Central Saint Martins and Elisava - two of the most prestigious schools.

www.london-barcelona-courses.com

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Superb one to one tuition from artist and ceramicist Colin Bloom. His veggie food is delicious, the setting picturesque and rates are very reasonable. I loved the trips into Barcelona to the art museums. Recommended.

Vilafranca direct train 40 minutes to Barcelona.
0034 938 980 324
colinblm@gmail.com

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Discreetly hidden away in a quiet backstreet is this cultural centre and lounge club built into an old warehouse.

They publish an online magazine, screen films and run a funk, soul, hip-hop and rare groove session at Apolo. During summer 2006 it proved the ideal venue for Spain vs France in the World Cup. Don't lose heart as you head up Calle Fontrodona, it is there and the cava is at knock down prices.

Calle Fontrodona 33; Metro: Parallel L3; www.maumaunderground.com

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One of the entrances to Cathedral La seu is through the cloistered courtyard. It’s a wonderful space, stone flagged floors, arched recesses, gothic columns and lush green foliage. One can easily imagine walking slowly around the cloisters in quiet contemplation. Ah, except for the interruptions of the geese which share the space.

There are 13 geese, each representing one-year of the life of the martyred Santa Eulalia, the patron Saint of Barcelona. One does get the sense that the geese feel they are the real owners of the courtyard; everyone else is just an interloper. And they are probably right.

Inside the beautifully cool interior are some wonderfully ornate side chapels, paintings and gilding. The high ceiling has carved round plagues at each axis and the patches of weathering on the roof rather than detracting from the decoration actually add to the feel of the place, giving a sense of history and continuity.

The choir stalls are handsomely decorated with coats of arms and all through the cathedral are wonderfully rich colours and decorative flourishes. It is an incredibly impressive building, a focal point for the area and community, imposing yet also welcoming and peaceful.

A lift takes you to the roof and a walk along the bouncy steel walkway not only gives you fantastic views over the city but also allows you to see up close the architecture of the cathedral itself.

Plaça de la Seu
Barri Gotic. Metro: Lines 1 and 3 (Catalunya Station) and Lines 2 and 4 (Urquinaona Station.)
www.catedralbcn.org

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Designed by Gaudi, begun in 1883 and still being constructed, the Sagrada Familia radiates a compelling presence in the city, even before you visit it. Maybe it is the fact that it is unfinished, maybe it's the unusual architecture and decoration - which includes broken bottles and ceramics - but there is something so creative about the building that it'll work on your imagination.

From a distance the facade looks like someone has taken a lump of clay, kneaded and moulded it into a mass of spikes, icicles, holes and ridges. Closer up and you begin to pick out elements, even closer and you become overwhelmed by the intricate details. Inside the lines of the stone are clean, elegant, tactile.

The structure and composition of the building is very organic - photographs show how some of the columns were inspired by trees - and it is almost as if the building has developed on its own burgeoning from the earth, expending and blossoming as it grows. I particularly sensed this inside the structure and when climbing around inside the thin towers, the building has such a strong sense of identity, its own identity, separate from the person who designed it and the people building it. Maybe that is in part what makes this a remarkable structure, the way that is both representative of Gaudi's vision but is also somehow independent. This is not just a building it's an ongoing work of art.

Carrer de Mallorca 401
Metro: Line 2 or 5 Station: SagradaFamilia
www.sagradafamilia.org

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This is one of the loveliest places in Barcelona to hang out and daydream. Strictly speaking, the Bar del Pi is just off Placa del Pi in Placa Sant Josep Oriol. Bar del Pi features art donated by locals over the years and has always been a bohemian hangout popular with an over-25 crowd.

On Sundays in the square, there are often art fairs and you can buy yourself a comic from the legendary Makoki comic shops - I recommend 'El Bueno de Cuttlass', a hilarious stick cowboy who has a girlfriend called Mabel and an obsession with Kraftwerk.

The old town to the left of the Ramblas. If you stand at the entrance to Liceu Metro station, facing the Colon statue, and turn left down the nearest side street, you'll find the Placa del Pi. Otherwise, it's reachable from the other end from the Cathedral.

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This is a city of museums and the Picasso Museum has to be on the list, whether an art lover or not. The setting, in an ancient palace, where much of the original stonework has been preserved, sits well with the multi-language commentaries explaining his life and work, and the formidable number of sketches, etchings and paintings.

The list of museums is endless. Contemporary Art, Modern Art, Erotic Art, Medicine, Geology, Zoology, Biology, Perfume, even a Museum of Chocolate. But really worth a visit is the Museum of the Old City. A lift transports you downwards as an illuminated display counts back the years from the present day to 13 B.C. This is 30 feet under the surface where walkways of plate glass are built over the excavated ruins of the city of Barcino, 2000 years ago. Very atmospheric.

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In the middle of Barcelona Cathedral, stands the chorus. This construction was built in the 16th-century, on the orders of Carlos I of Spain, master of the order of the golden Fleece to meet with his fellow knights. Among which were 40 kings and dukes of Europe. The coat of arms of them all are engraved on the wooden chairs and nowadays are objects of study for chivalry scholars.

When the knights finally met, Carlos gave a phrase to history: "I would rather be Count of Barcelona than Emperor of Germany".

Barcelona Cathedral, Plaça Nova

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This gallery is devoted to the work of the 82-year-old Catalan painter Antoni Tàpies. A rich experience not to be missed.

Aragó 255, 08007 Barcelona; tel: 34 934 870 315; nearest metro: Passeig de Gràcia;
www.fundaciotapies.org/site/article.php3?id_article=2931

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Quite apart from the permanent collection of Catalan, Spanish and other European contemporary art, and the special exhibitions, the museum is itself a work of art (architect Richard Meier). Just walking around its spaces is an uplifting experience.

5 minutes walk from Las Ramblas;
Plaça dels Àngels, Barcelona 08001;
tel: 93 412 0810;
www.macba.es

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This elaborately decorated, art nouveau (modernista in Catalan) concert hall is an absolute must see. It's exciting enough looking at it outside, but the whole of the inside is exhilarating with a riot of sparkling stained glass and swirling forms. There’s a huge expression of colour and light, especially in the auditorium itself with its stunning, golden-brown, stained-glass ceiling - a highlight in every sense. Guided tours only, some in English, last just under an hour, and it's best to book in advance. Don't be put off - this is really one to remember.

Calle Sant Francesc de Paula, 2; tel: 902 442 882; nearest metro: Urquinaona

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Perfect for a rainy afternoon, this gallery (Fundacio Joan Miro) has enough stuff in it to keep you occupied until the sun comes out again. He worked in all sorts of different media, so apart from the paintings, you’ll be seeing sculpture in wood, metal and stone, fabrics splayed across the walls and ceramics dotted about all over. The Spanish modernist artists often seem to have a rather hard edge, but also a sense of humour and Miro is no exception. There are also guest exhibitions which change fairly regularly.

Parc de Montjuic - a reasonable stroll from Pl. Espanya;
www.bcn.fjmiro.es/

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Groundbreaking architectural delight, it is located in a secluded part of Montjuic ideal for contemplating the colourful sculptures on the rooftop terrace with the Med in the background. The museum is basically a deconstruction of Miro’s creative DNA with temporary exhibitions by other artists.

Marques de Comillas, nearest metro: Paral.lel

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The art scene’s new toy in town – a converted Modernista factory sponsored by the Catalan bank La Caixa, it hosts excellent temporary exhibitions and also features an auditorium.

Casaramona, Avinguda Marquès de Comillas; nearest metro: Paral.lel

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White-hot contemporary art museum in the Raval. A landmark which proved the turning point for the infamous barrio – it is the focal point for a whole host of activities.

Plaça dels Angels 1; nearest metro: Universitat; Closed on Tuesdays

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There are no words to describe this Modernist fantasy – Gaudi’s creative DNA deconstructed in front of your eyes and overlooking the Catalan capital. From the largest balcony-bench in the world to the adorned ceramic animals via the mosaic, don’t bother going to the Universal Studios down the Catalan coast, this is the theme park of the future.

Carrer Olot, Metro: Lesseps

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