If you are curious to see this bloody tourist show, please consider that:
24 hours beforehand, the bull is shut in a dark wooden box, denied food, and weakened and disorientated by having the ends of his horns painfully cut off.

At the moment of the bullfight, the bull is released from the darkness straight into the arena. Blinded and disorientated by the light, he looks for a chance to escape. But here he will be tortured with a 45cm-long spear tipped with a conical blade to cut the muscles at the base of his neck, force him to lower his head, and start the blood loss.

Then, in the same part of his body, ‘banderillas’ (harpoons of 8cm in length) will be thrust in and left there to painfully sever nerves and muscles with every movement the bull makes. Finally, a sword of 80-100cm in length is plunged in, which penetrates the bull’s body, perforating his heart, his lungs, his diaphragm or liver, causing him to die.

The horses too are the victims. Often gored and disemboweled, their wounds are hidden by the long blankets they wear. Their vocal chords are cut, so that you are unable to hear their cries. Do not encourage the torture of animals: Spain has many bloodless festivals that demonstrate it is possible to enjoy yourself without being cruel. 75% of Spaniards are against this practice but it is the financial support of tourists that allows this butchery to continue.

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For Barcelona events, gigs, news, art and clubs grab any of the following three:

BCNWEEK, a witty free paper with cultural reviews and listings.

BUTXACA, a small free listings booklet for almost everything in Barcelona, or

MUNDO SONORO (free, comes out first thursday every month) a thick monthly music bible with music reviews and of course, gig listings.

For a good city map, city and beach guide, airport transfer info. and apartments check out:
www.way2stay.com/area-info-Barcelona-en-52.htm

These publications are found lurking in the doorway of any given Barcelona bar, record or clothing store in the centre of town (most likely in Raval or Gotico).

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This is a 'cultural weekly' put together by expats living in the city. It was in print, and I think they'll be going back into print for the summer, but they've got a website which is always great to find unique places to eat or alternative events in the city.

They also offer cultural commentary and columns. Sometimes it's better than others, but always interesting.

www.bcnweek.com

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I never realised Catalonia was different from Spain. It has its own language, culture and traditions and some of the most incredible festivals I have ever seen. One of the most authentic I saw was in the Pyrenees Mountains in July. 150 locals ran down the mountain side carrying enormous flaming logs to ward off evil nature spirits. From the valley we saw a red snaking line, and when the log bearers reached the village music started and everything went haywire! There are so many other awesome festivals, with Human Castles, Devil Fire Runs and Giants. Definitely try to see one as these are authentic real life rituals, some of which are 1000 years old. Pagan traditions are definitely alive in Catalonia, so if you're a Travel Troll like me - head out of Barcelona into the rural Catalan villages.

Catalonia, especially in the summer months. There is a company that organizes small group trips to Catalan festivals for English and Spanish speakers: www.cultourabcn.com

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Discreetly hidden away in a quiet backstreet is this cultural centre and lounge club built into an old warehouse.

They publish an online magazine, screen films and run a funk, soul, hip-hop & rare groove session at Apolo. During summer 2006 it proved the ideal venue for Spain vs France in the World Cup. Don't lose heart as you head up Calle Fontrodona, it is there and the cava is at knock down prices.

Calle Fontrodona 33; Metro: Parallel L3; www.maumaunderground.com

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To call La Rambla a street somehow appears a little demeaning, thoroughfare or boulevard seem much more fitting words, however neither really adequately describe the 'slice of life' that is La Rambla.

Running from Placa de Catalunya down to the port area, La Rambla is a place for people to stroll, meet, pass through, trade, eat, drink, people watch and be entertained. And if you think it's busy wandering down its length at midday return at midnight when it's even livelier.

Entertainment comes in the form of buskers and street performers of the 'living statue' type - give them some coins and they'll perform for you or just admire them as they stand immobile. One favourite was the headless torso with the 'detached' head alive and chatting on a plate of vegetables next to him. There are also stalls selling flowers, sketch artists offering to draw your likeness and booths selling a variety of birds and small animals. Indeed it was quite incongruous seeing pigeons hoping around the ground in front of a booth where others were on sale.

Inevitably in such a busy place there will be pickpockets so be careful with your purse, camera and other valuables. However don't let that put you off, whether it's a morning, afternoon or evening stroll - La Rambla is the place.

La Rambla

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One of the entrances to Cathedral La seu is through the cloistered courtyard. It’s a wonderful space, stone flagged floors, arched recesses, gothic columns and lush green foliage. One can easily imagine walking slowly around the cloisters in quiet contemplation. Ah, except for the interruptions of the geese which share the space.

There are 13 geese, each representing one-year of the life of the martyred Santa Eulalia, the patron Saint of Barcelona. One does get the sense that the geese feel they are the real owners of the courtyard; everyone else is just an interloper. And they are probably right.

Inside the beautifully cool interior are some wonderfully ornate side chapels, paintings and gilding. The high ceiling has carved round plagues at each axis and the patches of weathering on the roof rather than detracting from the decoration actually add to the feel of the place, giving a sense of history and continuity.

The choir stalls are handsomely decorated with coats of arms and all through the cathedral are wonderfully rich colours and decorative flourishes. It is an incredibly impressive building, a focal point for the area and community, imposing yet also welcoming and peaceful.

A lift takes you to the roof and a walk along the bouncy steel walkway not only gives you fantastic views over the city but also allows you to see up close the architecture of the cathedral itself.

Plaça de la Seu
Barri Gotic. Metro: Lines 1 and 3 (Catalunya Station) and Lines 2 and 4 (Urquinaona Station.)
www.catedralbcn.org

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Designed by Gaudi, begun in 1883 and still being constructed, the Sagrada Familia radiates a compelling presence in the city, even before you visit it. Maybe it is the fact that it is unfinished, maybe it's the unusual architecture and decoration - which includes broken bottles and ceramics - but there is something so creative about the building that it'll work on your imagination.

From a distance the facade looks like someone has taken a lump of clay, kneaded and moulded it into a mass of spikes, icicles, holes and ridges. Closer up and you begin to pick out elements, even closer and you become overwhelmed by the intricate details. Inside the lines of the stone are clean, elegant, tactile.

The structure and composition of the building is very organic - photographs show how some of the columns were inspired by trees - and it is almost as if the building has developed on its own burgeoning from the earth, expending and blossoming as it grows. I particularly sensed this inside the structure and when climbing around inside the thin towers, the building has such a strong sense of identity, its own identity, separate from the person who designed it and the people building it. Maybe that is in part what makes this a remarkable structure, the way that is both representative of Gaudi's vision but is also somehow independent. This is not just a building it's an ongoing work of art.

Carrer de Mallorca 401
Metro: Line 2 or 5 Station: SagradaFamilia
www.sagradafamilia.org

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Parallel to the Ramblas, but miles away from the crowds, La Rambla del Raval is the result of the demolition of a section of slum housing in Raval to create an open street. There are plenty of benches where you can sit and watch hippies juggling fire and men clandestinely selling beer cans.

La Rambla del Raval is definitely very seedy but in a good way. It boasts some of Barcelona's best kebab shops, notably King Donner. The area is becoming more trendy, there are some nice bars up and down the street, including OmBar at the bottom.

It's a nice place to sit out drinking late at night, people watching, and in the summer there are music events staged here. There is a good but pricey market every day but Sunday.

There are occasional demonstrations here too.

Nearest metro: Sant Antoni

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I live in Barcelona, and when I arrived I thought it would be a good idea to learn a bit of Spanish. Two-and-a-half years done the line, I now realise that although that´s a great start, it´s even more appreciated by the locals if you speak their own language, Catalan. So just try "Gracies" said like "gra-si-ess" or "bon dia" (good day) or bona nit (good night - like the Geordie "neet") and remember that the majority of the people here don´t feel Spanish so don´t wear a "torro" t-shirt (the famous bull logo).

Instead, buy something with the now famous Catalan donkey logo - and you will make lots of friends in this beautiful city.

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Perfect for a rainy afternoon, this gallery (Fundacio Joan Miro) has enough stuff in it to keep you occupied until the sun comes out again. He worked in all sorts of different media, so apart from the paintings, you’ll be seeing sculpture in wood, metal and stone, fabrics splayed across the walls and ceramics dotted about all over. The Spanish modernist artists often seem to have a rather hard edge, but also a sense of humour and Miro is no exception. There are also guest exhibitions which change fairly regularly.

Parc de Montjuic - a reasonable stroll from Pl. Espanya;
www.bcn.fjmiro.es/

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Ten-storey-high castles made from humans are built upwards into the blue hot skies. A little five year old shimmies up the concentrated mass of bodies, straddles the top section and raises one hand in the air while a massive burst of cheering and applause breaks free from the Catalan crowd. This is one of the stunning traditions celebrated regularly in Catalonia. The company, culTOURa, runs tours to these events from Barcelona centre.

tel: (+34) 93 473 1731; email: info@cultourabcn.com;
www.cultourabcn.com

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This is a traditional Catalan dance. It is performed in the Cathedral Square on Sundays from 12-2, and provides an opportunity to hear traditional Catalan instruments.

Place de la Seu, outside the Cathedral, in the Gothic Quarter

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Merce is the city's patron saint and this festival falls around her feast day in late September. Though its roots are religious, it's a celebration of all that's best about Catalan and Spanish culture.

The most thrilling event is the Fire Run, a Catalan tradition held on the Friday night of the weekend festivities. The people of the city pour into the streets, while mischievous devils dressed in red come running along, brandishing tall poles that spew forth fireworks.

The aim is for the people to defend the city from the invading devils - amid the hilarious chaos, you find yourself gathering with others to ambush a devil, then jump up and down a few times chanting something (I was doing that "rhubarb rhubarb" thing), and finally pinning the devil down on the ground. Then everyone gets up and does it all over again - many times. The closer you get to the devils, the less chance you have of getting hit by the fireworks. Meanwhile, duelling bands of drummers come in waves down the street playing very dance-able Brazilian-style beats.

The quality of entertainment at Merce is outstanding. Among the performers playing free concerts last year were Ben Lee (at a small, out-of-the-way square) and a trio of Spain's most prominent flamenco musicians.

All over Barcelona
www.bcn.es/merce/

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It's the place where Barcelona fans gather after big victories. It is good fun after any major win but delightful chaos after they reach any final, win any trophy or beat Real Madrid or Espanyol.

Top of the Ramblas, at the entrance to the Placa Catalunya metro station

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Plaza George Orwell aka 'Plaza Trippy'.

Right in the middle of the barrio gotico this square, named after the big brother themed CCTV camera art installation in its centre, has become a meeting point for a diverse proportion of squatters in Barcelona. Head there and grab a bottle of Xibeca to share with the 21st century nomads of all ages of the city, who congregate there to shoot the breeze through to the early hours with their neckerchiefed canine companions.

Nearest metro: Drassanes

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In the heart of the little streets that criss-cross the old town is a small museum to Picasso and contains much of his early work, donated by the artist himself in 1970. It’s fascinating to see the sketches and paintings he made in conventional styles, before he discovered cubism, and indeed how accomplished some of them are. The painting in particular of his sister’s first communion is quite superb.

Carrer Montcada 15 - 23; www.museupicasso.bcn.es

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Two hours by train, north of Barcelona, is the town of Figueres. In Figueres is the Salvador Dali Theatre-Museum. No trip to Catalonia is complete without a visit to Dali’s self-constructed museum which is a work of art in itself. His idea was to give the visitor an experience of the truly surreal (the word seems to be often misused these days) and the visitor is not disappointed.

The building itself is wonderfully outrageous, and the exhibits give a good insight into Dali’s way of working and sense of humour and you can even see the crypt where the man is now buried. This museum has nearly a million visitors a year, so join the queue and be entertained by the exterior and its adornments while you wait.

Figueres

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It's a palace of music and concerts are held here, but it also attracts visitors for its modernist tilework and stained glass. The interior of the building is beautiful and crowned by a fantastic (and huge) inverted dome of stained glass in the main auditorium. Guided tours are every 30 minutes during the day - just wait outside the door until they let you in - it's worth it.

Carrer de Sant Pere Mes Alt

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