http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34424 This is one of Catalonia’s most popular festivities and people throughout the principality enjoy spending their time browsing the stalls to buy a book and a rose as gifts for their partner or, if they don’t have one, for someone else they love. Traditionally, a man would give a rose to his partner and she would give him a book, but nowadays people give both to their partners and to other loved ones as a token of affection.
Roses for Saint George's Day:
Barcelona’s streets are beautiful on Saint George’s Day; the colourful rose stalls and booksellers’ stands are everywhere, bargains and best-sellers abound –popular authors madly signing copy after copy– and the balconies are decked with the gold and red of the Catalan Flag. If you have a walk around, you’ll probably see rose stalls belonging to NGOs or charities, perhaps you might prefer to buy from these rather than some of the more commercial stalls.
Perhaps you can give a loved one a pleasant surprise as a fond remembrance of your stay in Barcelona.
The tradition of giving a rose on Saint George’s day is said to date from the 15th century Festival of Roses, celebrated on the 23rd of April by which time Saint George was firmly established as an important Saint and when the sculpture you can see on the façade of the Palau de la Generalitat in Carrer Bisbe was made.
The rose bedecked Palau de la Generalitat is open to the public on the 23rd of April, so this is your chance to see Marc Safont’s wonderful Gothic architecture on the Ceremonial Stairs, Gothic Gallery and the Chapel of Saint George, and Pere Mateu’s Pati dels Tarongers, all hidden behind the Neo Classical Façade. The Sardana national dance is widely performed on this day.
Saint George appears in several accounts of battles in Catalunya –naturally, on the winning side– and Jaume I mentions the Saint’s contribution to the conquest of both Mallorca and Valencia.
This may seem strange to some because Saint George –as the first Crusaders discovered to their dismay in the 11th century– was known to the Saracens as the Green Knight and appears several times in the Koran, as well as in many popular legends in which he rescues damsels from dragons.
The name George means farmer or person who cares for the land, the saint has always been connected with the springtime, and he is a protector of the harvest. It is perhaps also for this reason, along with his legendary penchant for rescuing damsels in distress from marauding dragons, (a rose bush is said to have grown from the dragon’s spilt blood) he is associated with the romantic gift of a spring rose. Perhaps also George’s connection with husbandry is the reason the roses all come with an ear of wheat, usually tied to the stem with a little ribbon of Catalan Flag.
The gift of the book on National Book Day is a much more recent tradition, beginning in 1926 throughout Spain. The 23rd of April was chosen because it was the date of Cervante’s death. Although the custom disappeared in many areas of Spain, the practice soon became popular in Catalonia and quickly became part of its Patron Saint’s Day, its origin soon forgotten.
Have a nice day!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34424 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34259 Located in the heart of Barcelona’s Eixample, the Museum of Catalan Modernism occupies the ground floor and basement of a building by one of Barcelona’s most prolific architects, Enric Sagnier. Sagnier built many of Barcelona’s public buildings, including the old Law Courts on Passeig Lluis Companys, the Customs House at the bottom of the Rambla, just across the road from the Gothic Shipyards and the church by Tibidabo funfair. If you’ve seen Woody Allen’s film, Vicky Cristina Barcelona, you’ve
seen one of his many family dwellings, this particular one being built for Manuel Doncel and featuring Plateresque ornamentation.
Back to the Museum.
There is a collection of beautiful furniture and marquetry work by some of the period’s best cabinetmakers and designers: cabinets, sideboards and other pieces by Joan Busquets, chairs, office furniture and other pieces by Gaudí; religious and decorative marquetry by Gaspar Homar.
Eusebi Arnau was a leading sculptor when the Eixample was being built and his superb decorative vase made for the entrance hall of the Garriga I Nogués building (Diputació 250, also by Sagnier) is on display. There are also pieces in terracotta and marble by Enric Clarasó a member of the Quatre Gats and friend of Ramon Casas and Santiago Rusiñol.
There is a large selection of characteristically modernist polychrome terracotta busts by Lambert Escaler.
Josep Llimona, one of modernism’s greatest exponents is also well represented. With Gaudí he founded the Cercle Artistic de Sant Lluc (which is still active) to defend an ideal image of art and preserve a spirit of Christian commitment.
Finally, there are several charming stained glass screens and windows, the one called “Life” by Joaquim Mir is stunning in its vitality. So is the screen and doorway at the entrance.
Modernist painters are of course present, the languid ladies of Gaspar Camps, the elegant Parisian ladies of Joan Cardona, Ramon Casas’ studies of Barcelona characters, the military themes of ex-soldier Josep Cusachs and many more.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34259 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30957 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30957 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30956 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30956 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30954 a wonderful place to visit. Film directors think so too, and the owners work closely with several of them, including Pedro Almodovar. Should you be tempted to buy, Fins de Siecles will be happy to ship your furniture anywhere in the world.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30954 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30721 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30721 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30683 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30683 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30680 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30680 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26877 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26877 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23526
A little research and planning means visitors can save a small fortune while seeing some of the best laid-out museums I've seen anywhere.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23526 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18808 24 hours beforehand, the bull is shut in a dark wooden box, denied food, and weakened and disorientated by having the ends of his horns painfully cut off.

At the moment of the bullfight, the bull is released from the darkness straight into the arena. Blinded and disorientated by the light, he looks for a chance to escape. But here he will be tortured with a 45cm-long spear tipped with a conical blade to cut the muscles at the base of his neck, force him to lower his head, and start the blood loss.

Then, in the same part of his body, ‘banderillas’ (harpoons of 8cm in length) will be thrust in and left there to painfully sever nerves and muscles with every movement the bull makes. Finally, a sword of 80-100cm in length is plunged in, which penetrates the bull’s body, perforating his heart, his lungs, his diaphragm or liver, causing him to die.

The horses too are the victims. Often gored and disemboweled, their wounds are hidden by the long blankets they wear. Their vocal chords are cut, so that you are unable to hear their cries. Do not encourage the torture of animals: Spain has many bloodless festivals that demonstrate it is possible to enjoy yourself without being cruel. 75% of Spaniards are against this practice but it is the financial support of tourists that allows this butchery to continue.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18808 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13377
BCNWEEK, a witty free paper with cultural reviews and listings.

BUTXACA, a small free listings booklet for almost everything in Barcelona, or

MUNDO SONORO (free, comes out first thursday every month) a thick monthly music bible with music reviews and of course, gig listings.

For a good city map, city and beach guide, airport transfer info. and apartments check out:
www.way2stay.com/area-info-Barcelona-en-52.htm]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13377 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12339
They also offer cultural commentary and columns. Sometimes it's better than others, but always interesting.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12339 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12009 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12009 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10962
They publish an online magazine, screen films and run a funk, soul, hip-hop and rare groove session at Apolo. During summer 2006 it proved the ideal venue for Spain vs France in the World Cup. Don't lose heart as you head up Calle Fontrodona, it is there and the cava is at knock down prices.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10962 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10922
Running from Placa de Catalunya down to the port area, La Rambla is a place for people to stroll, meet, pass through, trade, eat, drink, people watch and be entertained. And if you think it's busy wandering down its length at midday return at midnight when it's even livelier.

Entertainment comes in the form of buskers and street performers of the 'living statue' type - give them some coins and they'll perform for you or just admire them as they stand immobile. One favourite was the headless torso with the 'detached' head alive and chatting on a plate of vegetables next to him. There are also stalls selling flowers, sketch artists offering to draw your likeness and booths selling a variety of birds and small animals. Indeed it was quite incongruous seeing pigeons hoping around the ground in front of a booth where others were on sale.

Inevitably in such a busy place there will be pickpockets so be careful with your purse, camera and other valuables. However don't let that put you off, whether it's a morning, afternoon or evening stroll - La Rambla is the place.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10922 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10921
There are 13 geese, each representing one-year of the life of the martyred Santa Eulalia, the patron Saint of Barcelona. One does get the sense that the geese feel they are the real owners of the courtyard; everyone else is just an interloper. And they are probably right.

Inside the beautifully cool interior are some wonderfully ornate side chapels, paintings and gilding. The high ceiling has carved round plagues at each axis and the patches of weathering on the roof rather than detracting from the decoration actually add to the feel of the place, giving a sense of history and continuity.

The choir stalls are handsomely decorated with coats of arms and all through the cathedral are wonderfully rich colours and decorative flourishes. It is an incredibly impressive building, a focal point for the area and community, imposing yet also welcoming and peaceful.

A lift takes you to the roof and a walk along the bouncy steel walkway not only gives you fantastic views over the city but also allows you to see up close the architecture of the cathedral itself.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10921 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10919
From a distance the facade looks like someone has taken a lump of clay, kneaded and moulded it into a mass of spikes, icicles, holes and ridges. Closer up and you begin to pick out elements, even closer and you become overwhelmed by the intricate details. Inside the lines of the stone are clean, elegant, tactile.

The structure and composition of the building is very organic - photographs show how some of the columns were inspired by trees - and it is almost as if the building has developed on its own burgeoning from the earth, expending and blossoming as it grows. I particularly sensed this inside the structure and when climbing around inside the thin towers, the building has such a strong sense of identity, its own identity, separate from the person who designed it and the people building it. Maybe that is in part what makes this a remarkable structure, the way that is both representative of Gaudi's vision but is also somehow independent. This is not just a building it's an ongoing work of art.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10919 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/7232 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/7232 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5276
La Rambla del Raval is definitely very seedy but in a good way. It boasts some of Barcelona's best kebab shops, notably King Donner. The area is becoming more trendy, there are some nice bars up and down the street, including OmBar at the bottom.

It's a nice place to sit out drinking late at night, people watching, and in the summer there are music events staged here. There is a good but pricey market every day but Sunday.

There are occasional demonstrations here too.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5276