This amazing festival and fiesta is a cacophony of light and sound for a week as Barcelona celebrates its Patron saint. A run of fire, dragons, giants, fireworks and the study of Cava are accompanied by numerous free music festivals.

There is more information at www.barcelonaflats.co.uk/whats-on-guide-la-merce-festival.htm

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I never realised Catalonia was different from Spain. It has its own language, culture and traditions and some of the most incredible festivals I have ever seen. One of the most authentic I saw was in the Pyrenees Mountains in July. 150 locals ran down the mountain side carrying enormous flaming logs to ward off evil nature spirits. From the valley we saw a red snaking line, and when the log bearers reached the village music started and everything went haywire! There are so many other awesome festivals, with human castles, devil fire runs and giants. Definitely try to see one as these are authentic real life rituals, some of which are 1000 years old. Pagan traditions are definitely alive in Catalonia, so if you're a Travel Troll like me - head out of Barcelona into the rural Catalan villages.

There is a company that organizes small group trips to Catalan festivals for English and Spanish speakers: www.cultourabcn.com

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Anti-Sonar is an alternative to Sonar which runs in Barcelona at the same time. It's free and much more fun.

Whereas Sonar attracts a moneyed, trendy, international crowd, Anti-Sonar is an anarchic impromptu festival for the scruffier inhabitants of Barcelona who can't afford or simply resent the festival and the hordes of techno tourists that take over the city for the weekend. Don't expect any big name DJs. Expect unrelenting hard techno, and bring your own water, beer, absinthe, and suncream, as you'll be dancing through into the morning.

Usually located on the outskirts of the city near to the Sonar by Night festival site, follow the crowds or ask around

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Merce is the city's patron saint and this festival falls around her feast day in late September. Though its roots are religious, it's a celebration of all that's best about Catalan and Spanish culture.

The most thrilling event is the Fire Run, a Catalan tradition held on the Friday night of the weekend festivities. The people of the city pour into the streets, while mischievous devils dressed in red come running along, brandishing tall poles that spew forth fireworks.

The aim is for the people to defend the city from the invading devils - amid the hilarious chaos, you find yourself gathering with others to ambush a devil, then jump up and down a few times chanting something (I was doing that "rhubarb rhubarb" thing), and finally pinning the devil down on the ground. Then everyone gets up and does it all over again - many times. The closer you get to the devils, the less chance you have of getting hit by the fireworks. Meanwhile, duelling bands of drummers come in waves down the street playing very dance-able Brazilian-style beats.

The quality of entertainment at Merce is outstanding. Among the performers playing free concerts last year were Ben Lee (at a small, out-of-the-way square) and a trio of Spain's most prominent flamenco musicians.

All over Barcelona
www.bcn.es/merce/

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It's a festival in mid-September in homage to the patron saint of Barcelona. There are several traditional Catalan cultural features, including Sardanes (dancing in circles), Castellers (human castles) and parades of Gigants (papier mache dolls two storeys high). Apart from that, there is usually a parallel cultural programme involving live music on stages in the city and/or club events. Apart from celebrating La Virgen de La Merce, it is the first major event after most Catalans come back into town after the traditional exodus to the coast or the mountains in August, a hellishly hot month when locals usually leave the city to tourists who don't know better.

September in Barcelona - all over the place

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Electronic media and music festival in Barcelona every June. It has two elements, Sonar by day is centred on MACBA and is a perfect way to spend time in between eating and drinking. Sonar by night is not for the faint-hearted, situated out in the suburbs, its an all-night party on a grand scale.

www.sonar.es

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Ten-storey-high castles made from humans are built upwards into the blue hot skies. A little five year old shimmies up the concentrated mass of bodies, straddles the top section and raises one hand in the air while a massive burst of cheering and applause breaks free from the Catalan crowd. This is one of the stunning traditions celebrated regularly in Catalonia. The company, culTOURa, runs tours to these events from Barcelona centre.

tel: (+34) 93 473 1731; email: info@cultourabcn.com;
www.cultourabcn.com

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