- Barcelona
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Spain
On the other side of the Cathedral, down Carrer de Montjuïc del Bisbe, which is to the right of the small square by the cloisters, you’ll find the Plaça Sant Felip Neri, a most beautiful square with trees and a fountain. The pock marks you can see in the stonework of the church were caused by a bomb dropped by the Italian Air force during the Civil War. All the people, mostly children, sheltering in the church crypt were killed by the concussion. The square is mostly made from buildings moved stone by stone when the Vía Laietana was opened. Across the square you’ll see the terrace of the Beautiful Hotel Neri where you can get a bite to eat and a drink from 10.00 till 23.00 and until midnight at weekends. If the square is not too busy, it’s a fine place to sit. Pop inside the hotel and wonder at the proportions of the stonework.
Sant Sever, 5, 08002 Barcelona
+34 93 304 0655
www.hotelneri.com
Google map: bit.ly/okgP2j
Santa Maria del Pi embodies all the strength, solidity and creativity of the Catalan spirit. The huge single nave transmits a sensation of spirituality, space and mass all at once and its sheer width is striking.
Even the chapels between the buttresses contribute to the expanse instead of chopping it up as they do in some other churches.
The rose window, set in its cliff-like wall of stone, is said to be the largest in the world; seen from inside the church when the afternoon sun falls on it from over the buildings, it is spectacular.
Beneath the rose window and above the door is another outstanding feature and evidence of the great vision and skill of the Catalan architects and builders of the middle ages: the shallow stone arch supporting the choir. It spans the entire width of the church and its rise is so little as to make the arch itself seem an impossibility. It looks far too flat to stand, let alone bear the weight of the choir. Yet its shape is so harmonious and effortlessly elegant it leaves you breathless with admiration.
Building began in 1319 and was completed in 1391 meaning the church was one of the many Gothic buildings started during a period of prosperity but completed during the successive ravages of epidemics, plague and violent unrest.
The tower, finished off flat like most Gothic towers in Barcelona, (Why is the one in the Plaça del Rei different? That story is yet to come…) was probably finished around 1461. Designed by master architect Bartomeu Mas, work began in 1376. It is said that the master builder, desperate to find funds to complete the church, made a pact with the Devil. But the Devil only agreed to provide him with the materials required in exchange for the builder’s soul, to be delivered when the 100th step of the tower was laid. “Right-ho”, said the builder and promptly built up to the 99th and then went on to finish the rest of the church. This took so long he died of old age before getting round to laying the 100th step thus cheating the devil of his dues.
C/ Cardenal Casañas, 16, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
+34 933 18 47 43
www.labasilica.es
Google map: bit.ly/kvEPPm
This fine shop selling knives, cutlery and razors of all kinds is celebrating its 100th anniversary. Ramón Roca learned his trade in Germany and France, came back to Barcelona to open his shop in the plaça de Sant Josep Oriol. Ramón was one of the few craftsmen of his day capable of making fine blades and scalpels to the standards demanded by surgeons and he brought a special anvil from Paris to make them on. You can still see it in the shop in la Plaça del Pi, which dates from 1916.
Nowadays Ganiveteria Roca has a range of over 9,000 cutting tools of all kinds.
One of the things I like to buy for my friends who enjoy cooking is one of Roca’s own branded knives. Made of fine, non-stainless steel the knives hold a keen edge and their rounded wooden handles give them a pleasant feel. They look good too. I bought mine in 1978 and providing I continue to keep it clean and sharp it should last for ever.
Personal preferences apart, Roca has fist class knives from the world’s most prestigious manufacturers of Japan, Finland, France, Germany, Switzerland… collectors will always find something of interest and so will yachtsmen and outdoor enthusiasts. The new range of ceramic knives is attracting a lot of attention.
Catalunya’s finest and most well-known chefs are regular customers at Roca.
There are scissors for every conceivable application, even ones with double eye rings for people who work with the disabled, spring-loaded scissors for people suffering from arthritis and an astonishingly wide range of nail cutters.
The traditional cut-throat razor and its accessories are still one of the best sellers.
Roca is in the building that housed the shopkeepers guild and was probably the first to be decorated in the sgraffito style. The façade bears the date 1613.
Plaça del Pi 3, 08002 Barcelona
+39 933021241
www.ganiveteriaroca.cat/
Google map: bit.ly/lO9zmv
On the eastern side of the Rambla you’ll see one of Barcelona’s most photographed buildings, the Casa Bruno Quadros or, to give it its popular name, the House of Umbrellas. The ground floor of the building –now a savings bank– housed until 1980 a shop selling… umbrellas. The building was redesigned and decorated in its present form in 1883, just before the Universal Exhibition, by Josep Vilaseca, the architect who designed the Arc de Triomf at Passeig Sant Joan. Don’t let the spectacular dragon or charming umbrellas make you overlook the fine sgraffito work or the Egyptian inspiration of the upper floors.
La Rambla, 82
Google map: bit.ly/meWJZX
Spanish Civil War tour in English around Barcelona visiting some of the key sites in the city between 1936-1939. The tour covers themes such as Anarchism, George Orwell, the realities of daily life and bombing. A different way at looking at the city.
iberianature.com/barcelona/history-of-barcelona/spanish-civil-war-tour-in-barcelona/
A map showing sites in Barcelona with some reference to the history of the city. Many of the sites refer to industrial unrest, the civil war and the repression and resistance during the dictatorship. I recommend you have a walk along this route.
I put it together because I wanted to see how they played out on a map. More sites will be added soon.
iberianature.com/barcelona/history-of-barcelona/historical-memory-map-of-barcelona/
Going for a walk on this gorgeous mountain/hill is a great, relaxing experience. Here you'll find beautiful gardens, great restaurants, a castle, a theatre and above all a gorgeous view of Barcelona. There's an open air area with tables where you can have affordable and simple barbecued food and a bottle of wine whilst you enjoy a marvelous view of the mediterranean and the city by night. The place is called 'el mirador del migdia'.
Bus 55 or bus Parc de Montjuïc/funicular de Montjuïc, then 10min walk. Follow signs to Mirador de Montjuïc
An established (since 1827) chocolatiers in the Barri Gotic. My god, talk about mouthwatering....not too sweet. Pierre Marcolini has some serious competition!
A truly original and stylish gift to take back for the descerning chocolate-lover (actually, I can take or leave chocolate, but these are special).
The ladies behind the counter even gift-wrap their cheapest bars of chocolate for you without the sort of attitude one might expaect from such an institution. Shopping the old-fashioned way. Not cheap, but what do you expect?
Carrer del Pi, 16 in the heart of the Barri Gotic
Amazing food, cooked in front of you. All ingredients sourced a few feet away as it is in the heart of the Mercat Bocceria. Quite intimidating having to wait behind someone sitting and eating - you have to 'bags' your seat in this very un-English way! But the food was gorgeous.
The prices are high - we had two beers (on tap, San Miguel) a basket of lovely bread, one plate of gambas in burnt garlic and chilli and four tiny but exquisite croquettas and it came to 25 euros...considering our dismal experience at Les Quinze Nits, worth every penny and the five euro tip! Real Catalan through-and-through.
Mercat Bocceria, just off La Rambla
I'd recommend it because it's a beautiful church designed by Gaudi, an artist. It wasn't finished when I went but it was still beautifully carved, a masterpiece I'd say. It reminded me of an amazing, whacky jungle; there were towers painted incredibly and when you climbed up to the very top you could see all the wonderful sights of Barcelona. It's not like any other church I've ever been in and well worth the effort to climb to the top.
Ella Lazenby (age 9).
Barcelona, metro Sagrada Familia.
Designed by Gaudi, begun in 1883 and still being constructed, the Sagrada Familia radiates a compelling presence in the city, even before you visit it. Maybe it is the fact that it is unfinished, maybe it's the unusual architecture and decoration - which includes broken bottles and ceramics - but there is something so creative about the building that it'll work on your imagination.
From a distance the facade looks like someone has taken a lump of clay, kneaded and moulded it into a mass of spikes, icicles, holes and ridges. Closer up and you begin to pick out elements, even closer and you become overwhelmed by the intricate details. Inside the lines of the stone are clean, elegant, tactile.
The structure and composition of the building is very organic - photographs show how some of the columns were inspired by trees - and it is almost as if the building has developed on its own burgeoning from the earth, expending and blossoming as it grows. I particularly sensed this inside the structure and when climbing around inside the thin towers, the building has such a strong sense of identity, its own identity, separate from the person who designed it and the people building it. Maybe that is in part what makes this a remarkable structure, the way that is both representative of Gaudi's vision but is also somehow independent. This is not just a building it's an ongoing work of art.
Carrer de Mallorca 401
Metro: Line 2 or 5 Station: SagradaFamilia
www.sagradafamilia.org
The Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol in the Gothic Quarter is a beautiful part of Barcelona to stay in. There's a nice fourteenth century Gothic Church (Eglésia de Santa Maria del Pi) in the square and an interesting Artist's market where they sell paintings (just about every morning, as I recall). There are lots of very good cafés around there serving excellent food and wine too. It's also within easy walking distance of La Rambla, and the port.
Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol, Barcelona
This is a city of museums and the Picasso Museum has to be on the list, whether an art lover or not. The setting, in an ancient palace, where much of the original stonework has been preserved, sits well with the multi-language commentaries explaining his life and work, and the formidable number of sketches, etchings and paintings.
The list of museums is endless. Contemporary Art, Modern Art, Erotic Art, Medicine, Geology, Zoology, Biology, Perfume, even a Museum of Chocolate. But really worth a visit is the Museum of the Old City. A lift transports you downwards as an illuminated display counts back the years from the present day to 13 B.C. This is 30 feet under the surface where walkways of plate glass are built over the excavated ruins of the city of Barcino, 2000 years ago. Very atmospheric.
The Cathedral is worth visiting, especially the cloisters where a flock of snow white geese parade or paddle serenely in the water of the fountain along with the goldfish.
Visit the cathedral in the Gothic Quarter, near Via Laietana.
Plaça de la Seu;
tel: 93 315 1554
A two-hour trip outside of Barcelona to the small town of Figueres on the regional train was a pure delight. You can walk from the train station to the museum and the works of Dali opened up a whole new world in art for me.
The thing to miss in Barcelona is paying to go into the Sagrada Familia. It is an architectural wonder to behold but we felt the 20 euros spent to go in and up was a total waste of time and money. It is a construction site inside and totally disappointing.
PL. Gala. Salvador Dali, 5, Figueres;
tel: 972 51 1800;
Open: 9am - 7.45pm (Jul - Sep), 10.30am - 5.45pm (Oct - Jun);
www.salvador-dali.org/eng;
horarios.renfe.es/hir/ingles.html
A square at the seedy end of the old city off the Ramblas in Barcelona, named in memory of George Orwell, author of Homage to Catalonia. Pictures of the square, and of the security camera therein, are part of this photo essay from our trip in 1994: www.netcharles.com/orwell/pics/spain.htm
On Escudellers, east of the Ramblas near the port
Plaza George Orwell aka 'Plaza Trippy'.
Right in the middle of the barrio gotico this square, named after the big brother themed CCTV camera art installation in its centre, has become a meeting point for a diverse proportion of squatters in Barcelona. Head there and grab a bottle of Xibeca to share with the 21st century nomads of all ages of the city, who congregate there to shoot the breeze through to the early hours with their neckerchiefed canine companions.
Nearest metro: Drassanes
Nestled behind the Cathedral, the City History Museum tells the story of Barcelona in a series of buildings that are interesting in their own right. The highlight, though, lies beneath the medieval buildings where the Roman city has been extensively excavated and preserved. It's fascinating and an amazing achievement.
Pl rei 7, Barri Gotic. www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
Barcelona's most romantic square is, somewhat ironically, suffused with a rather sad history. Underneath it lies the city's old cemetery. Barcelona's most famous architect, Antoni Gaudí, was on his way to visit the church there when he was run over by a tram in 1928. The square's ghosts are peaceful ones, however, and in the early evening light of a summer's day there can be no more beautiful spot in the city.
Is this your business?Search Been there
