A very cool district of Barcelona, El Raval, stretches away just to the west of the Ramblas.

Not quite Barcelona's seamy underbelly, but in a decidedly chi-chi town, the next best thing.

In keeping with its working-class roots, there are still plenty of scruffy neighbourhood bars amidst the proliferating clothes shops, hip bars and restaurants.

From Placa Catalunya (north) to La Rambla (east); Ronda Sant Antoni (west) to Ronda Sant Pau (south)

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Wawas Barcelona is a small shop near the Picasso Museum in La Ribera which offers souvenirs, with a twist. Far from your average trinket shop, it is run by two local sisters whose product is a refocused view of the city's architecture and tradition. Their postcards, trays, and mugs bear images of a the less traditional - but still adored - Barcelona.

Most unique is their collaboration with Xocoa - the gourmet chocolatier of Barcelona. Wawas offers chocolate bars wrapped in their images, known as Barcelona Bombons. Without a doubt, the Barcelona souvenir you can find for friends, family, or 'novios'!

Definitely a must go!

WAWAS SHOP
C/ Carders 14
08003 Barcelona

(around the corner from the Picasso Museum)

T (+34) 93 319 79 02

At the time of this post, this shop did not have their own website, however they referred me to the following link to view their images:

flicker.com/search/?q=wawas+barcelona

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Fabulous array of fresh food of every kind, also wine and other drinks, something for everyone. Definitely the place to shop if self catering, but some very good cheap vegetarian hot food outlets associated with the market. On a budget, or want to treat yourself, this is the place! The place buzzes, and is particularly atmospheric after dark. A little art nouveau as well! Open till 8.30pm, closed Sundays.

La Rambla 91 Nearest metro: Liceu

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This is a large open-air market/flea market about five minutes on the Metro from the centre. It's open Mon, Weds, Fri and Sat until about 2.30pm.

Go at lunch and scoop up some great bargains. This is the best market ever for bartering; most vendors start with stupid "tourist" prices but you can talk them down to just a couple of euros for stuff, especially near closing.

Good area guide for Barcelona:
www.way2stay.com/area-info-Barcelona-en-52.htm

Getting to the market: Red line to Metro Glories exit the station and walk around the roundabout with the little monument and go under the underpass.

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The Guardian has a marked price of €3.00 but on Las Ramblas, the paper shops on the middle pedestrianised area all have €5 written in pen on the paper's masthead.

To avoid this rip-off, go to any of the newspaper shops on the pavement side of Las Ramblas, who correctly sell the paper for €3.00.

Las Ramblas

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To call La Rambla a street somehow appears a little demeaning, thoroughfare or boulevard seem much more fitting words, however neither really adequately describe the 'slice of life' that is La Rambla.

Running from Placa de Catalunya down to the port area, La Rambla is a place for people to stroll, meet, pass through, trade, eat, drink, people watch and be entertained. And if you think it's busy wandering down its length at midday return at midnight when it's even livelier.

Entertainment comes in the form of buskers and street performers of the 'living statue' type - give them some coins and they'll perform for you or just admire them as they stand immobile. One favourite was the headless torso with the 'detached' head alive and chatting on a plate of vegetables next to him. There are also stalls selling flowers, sketch artists offering to draw your likeness and booths selling a variety of birds and small animals. Indeed it was quite incongruous seeing pigeons hoping around the ground in front of a booth where others were on sale.

Inevitably in such a busy place there will be pickpockets so be careful with your purse, camera and other valuables. However don't let that put you off, whether it's a morning, afternoon or evening stroll - La Rambla is the place.

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This is one of the loveliest places in Barcelona to hang out and daydream. Strictly speaking, the Bar del Pi is just off Placa del Pi in Placa Sant Josep Oriol. Bar del Pi features art donated by locals over the years and has always been a bohemian hangout popular with an over-25 crowd.

On Sundays in the square, there are often art fairs and you can buy yourself a comic from the legendary Makoki comic shops - I recommend 'El Bueno de Cuttlass', a hilarious stick cowboy who has a girlfriend called Mabel and an obsession with Kraftwerk.

The old town to the left of the Ramblas. If you stand at the entrance to Liceu Metro station, facing the Colon statue, and turn left down the nearest side street, you'll find the Placa del Pi. Otherwise, it's reachable from the other end from the Cathedral.

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This market just off La Rambla is under an enormous lofty wrought iron roof resembling a Victorian railway station. Here can be bought just about every fruit and vegetable that can be thought of – and more. And everything fresh, every day – and unbelievably cheap. A kilo of tomatoes, ripe and bursting with flavour, for 39 cents.

Being a Mediterranean port, this is where fish reigns supreme. Every sort of fish – whole, gutted, filleted, dried, smoked, cooked, salted. Fresh and glistening in beds of glittering ice. From the lowly mackerel and sardine – unbelievable grilled over a hot barbecue, to octopus and langoustine. There can be no smell that is more evocative of the Mediterranean than that of shells of giant prawns roasting over charcoal. This gigantic market of food covers an area the size of a football pitch and is packed every day with shoppers till early evening.

www.boqueria.info

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Wine is so cheap. And not just those Spanish wines that everyone knows. There is a wine shop near the Picasso Museum that sells every conceivable wine up to expensive ones. But best of all is the wine that comes from several huge barrels in the cavern at the back of the shop. Here, Senora Duran, whose grandfather opened the shop after the Spanish Civil War, will fill empty litre bottles that the customer brings in, for a Euro.

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Carry on past MACBA into deepest, but not necessarily darkest, Ravel and you’ll come across Calle de Joaquin Costa and surrounding streets. Low rent bars/galleries/shops, old Barcelona and new Moroccan immigrants go about their daily businesses. Wander around and you’ll find some thing that that will get the better of your curiosity, you can even go to Benidorm.

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A lively, exciting part of town, where the trendy Catalans hang out and without the Brits abroad found chugging back cans of San Miguel as you will find on the Ramblas.

El Born has amazing bars and restaurants. Calle Banys Vells houses a great Cuban called Vieja Havana, and a cosy, romantic wine bar called Va da Vie. During the daytime El Born is home to great boutique clothes and shoe shops, although be warned, they close on Mondays.

Nearest metro station: Jaume II; main roads: Calle Argenteria, Calle Banys Vells and Passeig del Born

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The café is gone but the unusually flavoured chocolates thankfully remain. The chocolates are the stars, but the pastries are also gorgeous and the chocolate-themed gifts a lot of fun - chocolate beer anyone?

C Petritxol 11-13, 08003; tel: 93 3011197

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You know those instantly recognisable T-shirts (a colourful mishmash of patterns, textures and fabrics) that cost a bomb in Harvey Nichols? Buy them cheaper in this new flagship store.

Ferran, 36; tel: 933 426 698

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I spent a long time wandering through this market. Throngs of chilli, piles of fruit, ripe tomatoes, peppers. It is a truly mesmeric place. A great place to take photos or just soak up the atmosphere.

www.boqueria.info

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The best record shop in Spain. Yards and yards of rare and wonderful jazz, rock, funk, soul, and soundtracks on vinyl. And a cat called Marcel.

Riera Baixa 14, deep in the heart of El Raval; tel: 93 442 37 03;
www.wah-wahsupersonic.com

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Alongside the amazing array of food stalls you have a range of restaurants and tapas bar including an excellent sushi bar.

L'illa shopping centre (underneath it), on Diagonal although it's such a long street I can't remember where-head up near the hospital.

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This menswear shop stocks some real gems and is just the place for you if your style is cool and urban. The staff are helpful and unpretentious.

C. Del Pi, 16; tel: 93 318 25 31

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This little shop boasts a slightly funkier and cheaper selection of Camper shoes and super friendly staff. Take your kids - for once they will be encouraged to draw on the walls.

Corner C/ Elisabets with Plaza dels Angels

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An art gallery and souvenir shop. I bought some paintings there and love them. The staff were very friendly and the prices much cheaper than in London. Beware the cost of shipping a large piece home though.

Boters 4, Final Portaferrisa; tel: 93 301 13 25; www.montfalcon.com

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Amazing sweet shop on c/Ample, off the bottom of the Ramblas. Watch them make "old style" sweets, and stock up for great gifts to take home.

c/Ample; nearest metro: Drassanes or Barceloneta

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