http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34506 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34506 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34424 This is one of Catalonia’s most popular festivities and people throughout the principality enjoy spending their time browsing the stalls to buy a book and a rose as gifts for their partner or, if they don’t have one, for someone else they love. Traditionally, a man would give a rose to his partner and she would give him a book, but nowadays people give both to their partners and to other loved ones as a token of affection.
Roses for Saint George's Day:
Barcelona’s streets are beautiful on Saint George’s Day; the colourful rose stalls and booksellers’ stands are everywhere, bargains and best-sellers abound –popular authors madly signing copy after copy– and the balconies are decked with the gold and red of the Catalan Flag. If you have a walk around, you’ll probably see rose stalls belonging to NGOs or charities, perhaps you might prefer to buy from these rather than some of the more commercial stalls.
Perhaps you can give a loved one a pleasant surprise as a fond remembrance of your stay in Barcelona.
The tradition of giving a rose on Saint George’s day is said to date from the 15th century Festival of Roses, celebrated on the 23rd of April by which time Saint George was firmly established as an important Saint and when the sculpture you can see on the façade of the Palau de la Generalitat in Carrer Bisbe was made.
The rose bedecked Palau de la Generalitat is open to the public on the 23rd of April, so this is your chance to see Marc Safont’s wonderful Gothic architecture on the Ceremonial Stairs, Gothic Gallery and the Chapel of Saint George, and Pere Mateu’s Pati dels Tarongers, all hidden behind the Neo Classical Façade. The Sardana national dance is widely performed on this day.
Saint George appears in several accounts of battles in Catalunya –naturally, on the winning side– and Jaume I mentions the Saint’s contribution to the conquest of both Mallorca and Valencia.
This may seem strange to some because Saint George –as the first Crusaders discovered to their dismay in the 11th century– was known to the Saracens as the Green Knight and appears several times in the Koran, as well as in many popular legends in which he rescues damsels from dragons.
The name George means farmer or person who cares for the land, the saint has always been connected with the springtime, and he is a protector of the harvest. It is perhaps also for this reason, along with his legendary penchant for rescuing damsels in distress from marauding dragons, (a rose bush is said to have grown from the dragon’s spilt blood) he is associated with the romantic gift of a spring rose. Perhaps also George’s connection with husbandry is the reason the roses all come with an ear of wheat, usually tied to the stem with a little ribbon of Catalan Flag.
The gift of the book on National Book Day is a much more recent tradition, beginning in 1926 throughout Spain. The 23rd of April was chosen because it was the date of Cervante’s death. Although the custom disappeared in many areas of Spain, the practice soon became popular in Catalonia and quickly became part of its Patron Saint’s Day, its origin soon forgotten.
Have a nice day!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34424 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34259 Located in the heart of Barcelona’s Eixample, the Museum of Catalan Modernism occupies the ground floor and basement of a building by one of Barcelona’s most prolific architects, Enric Sagnier. Sagnier built many of Barcelona’s public buildings, including the old Law Courts on Passeig Lluis Companys, the Customs House at the bottom of the Rambla, just across the road from the Gothic Shipyards and the church by Tibidabo funfair. If you’ve seen Woody Allen’s film, Vicky Cristina Barcelona, you’ve
seen one of his many family dwellings, this particular one being built for Manuel Doncel and featuring Plateresque ornamentation.
Back to the Museum.
There is a collection of beautiful furniture and marquetry work by some of the period’s best cabinetmakers and designers: cabinets, sideboards and other pieces by Joan Busquets, chairs, office furniture and other pieces by Gaudí; religious and decorative marquetry by Gaspar Homar.
Eusebi Arnau was a leading sculptor when the Eixample was being built and his superb decorative vase made for the entrance hall of the Garriga I Nogués building (Diputació 250, also by Sagnier) is on display. There are also pieces in terracotta and marble by Enric Clarasó a member of the Quatre Gats and friend of Ramon Casas and Santiago Rusiñol.
There is a large selection of characteristically modernist polychrome terracotta busts by Lambert Escaler.
Josep Llimona, one of modernism’s greatest exponents is also well represented. With Gaudí he founded the Cercle Artistic de Sant Lluc (which is still active) to defend an ideal image of art and preserve a spirit of Christian commitment.
Finally, there are several charming stained glass screens and windows, the one called “Life” by Joaquim Mir is stunning in its vitality. So is the screen and doorway at the entrance.
Modernist painters are of course present, the languid ladies of Gaspar Camps, the elegant Parisian ladies of Joan Cardona, Ramon Casas’ studies of Barcelona characters, the military themes of ex-soldier Josep Cusachs and many more.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34259 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34017 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34017 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33308 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33308 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32839 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32839 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31554 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31554 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31553 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31553 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31552 Across the square from the Cathedral is the entrance to the Museu Marès. Inside this wonderful Gothic courtyard, tucked into a far corner among Roman columns and behind the orange trees and fountain is the Summer Café: a delightful spot to sit and restore depleted energies, write that postcard and get outside something long and cool.
Open from ten till ten, April to September.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31552 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31551 As a curiosity, there’s a bronze statue of Rovira i Trias, one of Cerdà’s competitors in the tender for designing Barcelona’s Eixample; his plans, based on concentric developments around the old town, lie discarded at his feet.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31551 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31550 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31550 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31549 Back to business. The Bar Virreina has a good selection of imported beers and does a tasty sandwich.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31549 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31545 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31545 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31544 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31544 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31543 It’s a very pleasant place for a snack during the day, though not cheap, and there is live music on Wednesdays and Sundays in summer.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31543 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31542 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31542 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31541 Part of the gardens is given over to the hotel restaurant and bar terrace. You can enjoy a meal or drink here in peace and quiet surrounded by greenery and the curious interior architecture of L’Eixample.
If the gates to the jardins happen to be closed –after about eight in the evening– just walk through the hotel and out the back doors onto the terrace.
However, avoid this place at all costs around five in the afternoon in term time. It quickly becomes a hell-hole of screaming brats who, freed from the tyranny of their teachers, burn off their accumulated frustrations and blast your tranquility to jagged bits.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31541 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31353 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31353 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30962 Even the chapels between the buttresses contribute to the expanse instead of chopping it up as they do in some other churches.
The rose window, set in its cliff-like wall of stone, is said to be the largest in the world; seen from inside the church when the afternoon sun falls on it from over the buildings, it is spectacular.
Beneath the rose window and above the door is another outstanding feature and evidence of the great vision and skill of the Catalan architects and builders of the middle ages: the shallow stone arch supporting the choir. It spans the entire width of the church and its rise is so little as to make the arch itself seem an impossibility. It looks far too flat to stand, let alone bear the weight of the choir. Yet its shape is so harmonious and effortlessly elegant it leaves you breathless with admiration.
Building began in 1319 and was completed in 1391 meaning the church was one of the many Gothic buildings started during a period of prosperity but completed during the successive ravages of epidemics, plague and violent unrest.
The tower, finished off flat like most Gothic towers in Barcelona, (Why is the one in the Plaça del Rei different? That story is yet to come…) was probably finished around 1461. Designed by master architect Bartomeu Mas, work began in 1376. It is said that the master builder, desperate to find funds to complete the church, made a pact with the Devil. But the Devil only agreed to provide him with the materials required in exchange for the builder’s soul, to be delivered when the 100th step of the tower was laid. “Right-ho”, said the builder and promptly built up to the 99th and then went on to finish the rest of the church. This took so long he died of old age before getting round to laying the 100th step thus cheating the devil of his dues.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30962 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30961 Nowadays Ganiveteria Roca has a range of over 9,000 cutting tools of all kinds.
One of the things I like to buy for my friends who enjoy cooking is one of Roca’s own branded knives. Made of fine, non-stainless steel the knives hold a keen edge and their rounded wooden handles give them a pleasant feel. They look good too. I bought mine in 1978 and providing I continue to keep it clean and sharp it should last for ever.
Personal preferences apart, Roca has fist class knives from the world’s most prestigious manufacturers of Japan, Finland, France, Germany, Switzerland… collectors will always find something of interest and so will yachtsmen and outdoor enthusiasts. The new range of ceramic knives is attracting a lot of attention.
Catalunya’s finest and most well-known chefs are regular customers at Roca.
There are scissors for every conceivable application, even ones with double eye rings for people who work with the disabled, spring-loaded scissors for people suffering from arthritis and an astonishingly wide range of nail cutters.
The traditional cut-throat razor and its accessories are still one of the best sellers.
Roca is in the building that housed the shopkeepers guild and was probably the first to be decorated in the sgraffito style. The façade bears the date 1613.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30961