It's a guide to vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Barcelona. It has information about shops, restaurants, bars, cafes - what to buy and where to buy it. Very user friendly. Indispensible for vegetarians living in and visiting Barcelona

www.sincarne.net

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Behind the bars and cafes that front Barcelona's marina in the redeveloped old port, the five and six storey blocks, once home to seamen and dockers in the nineteenth century, now house a mix of workers, students and a few self-catering tourists, like us.

Vaguely uneasy on our first evening in the dark narrow streets, we heard the jazz from "el fil Ferr" and went for a beer in the lively bar. Run by an energetic young trio, it offers light meals - meat if you want it, but try the deliciously varied vegetarian plate.

The wall posters speak of leftish politics; the clientele seemed to be doing the same, but exchanged smiles and a few friendly words in English in return for our attempts at Catalan. No other Brits in sight.

Two minutes from Barceloneta beach; closed Mondays; el fil Ferr, carrer Sant Carles 29, Barceloneta; Tel 93 221 98 36

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Best veggie candlelit dinner in Spain. Hidden down a medieval alley in the Born, this intimate modest restaurant is 100% innovative and organic.

Carrer Banys Vells 18, 08003, 00 34 93 268 46 94, Metro: Jaume I

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Cooperatively run vegetarian restaurant handy for the Picasso Museum and the lively bars of the Born area. It's based in a former sweetie warehouse and is a lively, informal restaurant, free of much of the worthiness that so often goes with veggie restaurants.

Choose soups, pasties or innovative pasta dishes from daily changing blackboards or pick more hearty dishes from the restaurant's menu. And do try to leave room for the fab cakes and puddings.

c Dels Flassaders 30 bis; tel 93 319 9866; Metro Jaume I; Open 1pm to midnight, Tuesday to Saturday

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Addictive haunt for exchange students, locals and other bagelistas. Along with a different vegetarian special every day, diverse tea flavours and American brunch served on Sunday mornings, the infinite selection of bagels provides an essential accompaniment to Barcelona snacking.

As a bonus, up and coming artists exhibit their work while an eclectic musical mix provides the aural background to your bagel-infused conversations. Known to insiders as the Bagel Club, it’s a must on the exchange student circuit.

Place de la Vila de Madrid; nearest metro: Placa Catalunya

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