La Gloria claims itself as a gastro bar and had a relatively interesting collection of international-inspired tapas providing a refreshing change to frito. We tried the red de pescadores (fisherman's net) filled with prawns and scallops in leek sauce, mango chicken with aromatic rice and Almadraba tuna cooked in soya sauce - a must-try in Conil, as the beast is fished in its port.

Pascual Junquera 2, 11140 Conil de la Frontera
Google map: bit.ly/PiTYnA

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Los Hermanos was commended by at least two people for its excellent pescaito frito (fried fish). Affordable (€1.50 a tapa, €6 for a 1/2 ration) and clearly popular (it was full to the rafters each time we passed by), meaning that it is advisable to arrive slightly before 'normal' Spanish eating hours (i.e. 1.30pm at lunchtime and 9pm for dinner).

Virgen, 1, Conil de la Frontera
+34 95 644 0403
Google map: bit.ly/QgSH3m

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Historical Cádiz, with its narrow alleyways and charming plazas sits on a peninsula sticking out in the breezy Atlantic Ocean. Spaniards of all ages are out and about until after midnight. The liberal atmosphere survived Franco. Sample the town beach of Playa de la Victoria or the larger ones across the bay. We – a family of five - stayed in Hotel Las Cortes de Cádiz in one room for E 240/night.

www.hotellascortes.com
Calle de San Francisco, 9, 11004 Cádiz, Spain
+34 956 22 04 89
Google map: bit.ly/KEfTkI

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Just inland from the Atlantic coast this sleepy seaside town from where Columbus sailed (see his travels in ‘The Ice House museum’), comes to life in the summer months. Horse racing on the sands, trips across the short stretch of water to seek out the elusive Iberian Lynx in the beautiful Coto Doñana National park (day trip Eu35 per adult).
And the most fabulous fish dishes at the quay side restaurants, washed down with the famous ‘Manzanilla’, a fine, dry local sherry. What more could you ask?

www.sanlucar-de-barrameda.com
Google map: bit.ly/IADW8s

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This little unpretentious bar which also serves good simple seafood is run by a one-time bullfighter. Most of the seating is outside on the street. We paid €29 for starters/mains and two drinks.
Located in the old fishermen's quarter Barrio de La Vina where many of the streets are populated with bars and restaurants.
Not surprisingly considering the previous occupation of the owner, the bar is full of bull fighting memorabilia.

Calle San Félix, 2 Barrio La Viña, Cadiz, Spain
+34 956 220 838

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A really modern restaurant with an abundance of 'tapas de diseño'. In a very minimalist setting, the menu offers something for everyone's taste, pâté, mini salads, meat, fish and finger fancies. Tapas range from €2.75 - €3.75. Entering with a rumbly tummy is dangerous business, as you will want to try everything on the menu! A little pricier than your average tapas bar, but definitely worth every cent!

www.showdetapas.com/home/
There are several in Cádiz, but the one that I visited is:
Calle San Francisco, 3 Cádiz

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
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A fried fish restaurant. There are two parts to the restaurant, separated by a wide pathway. One sells cooked seafood by the kilo, and the other fried fish. You walk in, pick your number and choose from the delights before you. They pack it up for you in a plastic bag, and you make your way to one of the silver tables equipped with a little rubbish bin for you to dispose of the shells and skins. Then the carnage begins ... biting, peeling, sucking and picking at, trying not to waste any of the succulent treats. If you can manage some more, you should then go for some pescaito frito (fried fish).

www.romerijo.com/
C/ J. Antonio Romero Zarazaga, 1
+34 956 542 290
Google map: bit.ly/pmd9ir

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From Cadiz city to Tarifa you will find miles of white sandy beaches with beautiful turquoise ocean backed by pine forests and dotted with laid back fishing villages where you can find bars with the freshest seafood accompanied by chilled sherry from Jerez. Places to check out are Tarifa - the windsurfing capital and gateway to Africa; Bolongia which is a well preserved roman city; Canos de Meca - a hippy hangout since the sixties where little has changed; and Conil a tuna fishing village and summer holiday destination for northern Spanish. Finally you should see the capital Cadiz - old Spain with Spanish colonial vibes. You could be in Havana! It's old Andalucia at its best!

Google map: bit.ly/kvR1cC

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This small beach effectively splits Cadiz in two. Stand on the sandy beach looking at Cadiz with the waves behind you, the old town with its small, wiggly, mazelike streets past the looming cathedral to the left and the new town with its endless rows of high-rise apartments to the right. If the sun is shining you will always find small groups of locals and language students taking in the sun, playing beach football or throwing a Frisbee around. More importantly for some is the surf. The beach has very reliable surf for kids on their sponges (bodyboarders) and of course the very protective local surfers. I learnt to bodysurf here and will return to do it again! Surf tech speak: Exposed beach break, favour lefts, quite reliable surf (tending to flat in summer). Local refreshments are provided by friendly beach sellers, Mickey from Argentina is there all year round, he will even join in with any football, volleyball and even throws a mean Frisbee. Playa Victoria stretches off along the new town, 3+km, and in summer everyone in Spain seems to be here! Finding any spot is nigh on impossible. So I suggest, ‘avoid!’ Visit Cadiz in February for the Carnival or Easter and try not to get stuck there as I did!

Google map: bit.ly/f5Qmdj

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I am almost reluctant to share this secret gem, as its charm lies in its unspoiled nature and totally undeveloped facilities. El Palmar is a deserted stretch of sandy, wind-blasted beach that goes on as far as the eye can see. There are no high rise concrete hotel blocks, no fancy restaurants, no lager louts demanding full English breakfasts. There are a few chiringuitos (shanty-like bars) serving tinto de verano, a refreshing red wine and soda mix, boquerones (delicious deep-fried anchovies) and other tasty snacks. Almost everyone in the bar is a local: either a crusty old fisherman taking a break from putting out the nets to discuss the tide and have a cold beer, surfer dudes or youngsters who come to watch the sunset while listening to local rock bands. It's always very, very windy here and there is little shade from the intense sun, except in the bar!

Located about half-way from Tarifa to Cadiz on the Atlantic coast.
Only reached by car on route A-48 (autovia de la Costa de la Luz)
Google map:bit.ly/hKiw7w

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This is a small fishermen village, famous for the ancient fishing method called "almadraba" (net), which offers stunning beaches, natural surroundings and world-class gastronomy. If you fancy a laid-back, off the beaten track place, chosen mostly by locals, this is where to go. The beach is wide, clean and endless. You can stroll the seaside up to Atlanterra, a more developed holiday spot. It's suitable for families and young people alike. Away from the village you can even find nudist beaches. I recommend staying at Camping Bahia de la Plata, a camping site just one km from town, where you can rent wooden bungalows or parcels for the caravan/tent, overlooking the sea. The place is very clean, offers a supermarket, hot water showers, laundry service and it has a nice restaurant where you can get budget breakfasts and enjoy a superb "mojama" (salt-cured tuna) with a chilled beer after a day in the beach. Or if you prefer, just relax in one of the many rustic "chiringuitos" on the beach.

Zahara is half way from Cadiz to Tarifa. The easiest way to reach it is taking a bus to Barbate from Cadiz (www.tgcomes.es) which stops in all the small coastal beaches. You can also reach the place from Jerez de la Frontera, Seville and Gibraltar. For budget accommodation www.campingbahiadelaplata.com/servicios.htm.

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Early on in the day it is great for chicharrones (ask for a quarter - un cuarto) and a cool beer from the bar. Then later in the afternoon sample some of the tapas (it is pretty economically priced as it is a public bar.) Try arranque (tomato, bread, garlic dip typical of Rota) and orteguillas (fried seaweed) and enjoy the sunshine or sit in the shade of La Merced tower. About 5 tapas and one 1/2 ración came to 20€ (feeding three hungry people).

Mercado Publico, c/Libertad, Rota
Google map: bit.ly/eifvXv

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Cádiz has one of the oldest Carnivals in the world thanks to its historical port that saw its sailors return home from afar with fashions and trinkets that would be worn during street parties. Groups continue this tradition by dressing as today's celebrities while singing songs about current news topics. They are surrounded by other revelers, who are also dressed up, resembling a massive British stag do party. The atmosphere, however, is far more jubilant and set within this beautiful city with its narrow cobbled alleys and tiny bars serving delicious Andalucian food, make this a free and democratic street party that cannot be missed.

www.andalucia.com/festival/carnival-cadiz.htm
Google map: bit.ly/gccNiN

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If you enjoy a carnival atmosphere, but Brazil is too far to go, I recommend taking a trip to Cadiz in the Costa de la Luz area of Spain as the town goes carnival crazy and is host to one of the most spectacular and famous carnivals in the whole of Spain. People flock here from all over the country to enjoy this four day event packed full of music, parades and street theatre. Be prepared for late nights and lots of refuelling at one of the many tapas bars. What makes it so special, this is true Spanish culture and as far removed from the other Costa's diluted tourist traps as possible. Vámonos.

www.carnavaldecadiz.com/
Google map: bit.ly/fZ5ENg

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Here you can chose from a range of sit down meals and enjoy a fantastic view of the surrounding slopes. If it is a bit nippy, warm up with Sopa de Grazalema (Grazalema soup, a broth with chorizo and pieces of bread). Next, my favourite paté de perdiz (Partridge paté) and then if you really want a feast a revuelto (scrambled egg) with seasonal veg (mushroom, asparagus, etc) and a meat of your choice (we opted for the beast of a leg of lamb, which could feed an army, not just two people!)

Avenida Juan de la Rosa, S/N, 11610 Grazalema, Spain
+34 956 13 21 86
www.eltajo.com/
Google map: bit.ly/efz4pU

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Nothing beats a massage or spa session after a long hike in the mountains. A 30 minute therapeutic massage is a bargain at €20.
Paco, the owner, would go out of his way to ensure that you go away knot-free! He even stayed after hours to make sure that my friends and I were all seen to.

C/ Laguneta, Nº 32
11610 Grazalema (Cádiz) España
+34956 132016
Google map: bit.ly/eKCh0l
www.spagrazalema.com

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The whole town stops for days to join in the fun. Parades, singers, food, drink, fancy dress, fireworks. Its all there.

www.carnavaldecadiz.com/Carnaval2011/Welcome.php
Google map: bit.ly/fZ5ENg

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Take a deep breath. Look between the keen, pricked ears of your Andalucian horse and check out the peaks and troughs of the undulating sandy track that stretches ahead. Don't linger too long ... exhale, sit deep, let your horse go and enjoy the aptly named roller coaster ride because it feels like seconds before you're slowing to join up with the rest of the whooping riders. Did you remember though to smile for the camera ? And then of course there's the gallops on miles of golden sandy Atlantic beaches, splashing through lakes and exploring the beautiful forests in the countryside near Cape Traflagar on the Costa de la Luz - the coast of light. As well as riding, there's superb little bars and restaurants on the agenda and a comfortable villa run by very welcoming English hosts. Not forgetting the lovely, proud and photogenic Spanish horses. You'll want to take one home to relive the experiences. I did !

www.losalamosriding.co.uk
La Zarzadilla 23, San Ambrosio, 11160 Barbate
Cadiz
(0034) 956 431 047

Google map: bit.ly/cdt00I

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