Arriving in hot, sandy El Rocío in the early afternoon one could think this is a deserted Mexican village with no life apart from stray dogs and neighing behind stable doors. Towards 6pm grown-ups and children ride through town on their horses and families stroll the riverfront promenade. The enchanting cathedral, the town’s nature visitors’ centre and nearby walks in the Coto Doñana all are a must – watch storks and other birds.
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