A traditional bar that is still going strong and has resisted being turned into one of the omnipresent kebab joints or pseudo-chic spots that have become so popular in recent years. Probably the only place in Granada where you pay extra for the tapas, but well worth it: pickled aubergines, potato omelette or small rolls with an infinite variety of fillings, washed down with a glass of Jumilla wine from their vats.

It's in Joaquin Costa St., just off Plaza Nueva. Take your phrase book.

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Come to Granada in May and experience music, art, culture and sunshine in the beautiful Andalucian mountains. May 16 - 18 2008.

www.rocketfestival.com

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A great tapas bar/store on the edge of Elvira (so it is convenient for late nights). A deli by day, you can sample local wines by the glass, each with free tapas- carefully made by the young team.

Order a tabla mixta and you won't need to eat any more, all night! If you want foodie souvenirs they also sell a wide range of local specialities, fresh and dried as well as wines and liqueurs. It is a surprisingly buzzy and friendly place and very popular with locals.

Calle Elvira 150
www.alsurdegranada.net
Tel: 958 270 245

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Ocana is a bar/restaurant/ bocadilleria/pizzeria. It's an interesting place with friendly staff, and away from the main tourist areas.

The thing that made it special when we visited (about 5 years ago) was that it was still serving tapas in the traditional way - with every beer, you get a free snack, each one different. The chef was a bit perplexed when we got up to our ninth beer one night!

Parts of the building are pretty old, and the staff were proud to show us around the areas that weren't in use at the time when they saw we were interested.

The patron is a great supporter of local musicians, and eagerly told us (despite very limited English) about a recital of flamenco guitar and singing that was taking place nearby.

If you don't speak Spanish, take a phrase book and be prepared to use it!

Plaza del Realejo, 1

Tel: 958 25 64 70

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There's no better place to sit for a late lunch, enjoying a bottle of chilled Rueda, than Bar Kiki, just off the Mirador de San Nicolas. Their food is good, the ambiance is great, and you can sample some typical Morisco specialties of the area.

For real foodies, check out the new Mediterranean Cooking School, which offers food market tours and multi-day cooking vacations. The School also has apartment rentals.

Bar Kiki: Mirador de San Nicolas, Albaicin, next to Inglesia San Nicolas

Mediterranean Cooking School - tel: 958 201 557 ;
email: info@alhambratravel.com;
www.alhambratravel.com

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View the Alhambra from the plaza beside Granada's Mosque. This is the only place to truly give a feel of what the Alhambra and Granada were like before the massive and extremely ugly building boom got underway some years ago.


The right time of day is at sunset when the Alhambra is tastefully floodlit. Afterwards casually make your way down through the barrio visiting the numerous Flamenco bars.

Numerous tourist buses go to Sacromonte barrio from the centre of Granada.

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