Ocana is a bar/restaurant/ bocadilleria/pizzeria. It's an interesting place with friendly staff, and away from the main tourist areas.

The thing that made it special when we visited (about 5 years ago) was that it was still serving tapas in the traditional way - with every beer, you get a free snack, each one different. The chef was a bit perplexed when we got up to our ninth beer one night!

Parts of the building are pretty old, and the staff were proud to show us around the areas that weren't in use at the time when they saw we were interested.

The patron is a great supporter of local musicians, and eagerly told us (despite very limited English) about a recital of flamenco guitar and singing that was taking place nearby.

If you don't speak Spanish, take a phrase book and be prepared to use it!

Plaza del Realejo, 1

Tel: 958 25 64 70

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There's no better place to sit for a late lunch, enjoying a bottle of chilled Rueda, than Bar Kiki, just off the Mirador de San Nicolas. Their food is good, the ambiance is great, and you can sample some typical Morisco specialties of the area.

For real foodies, check out the new Mediterranean Cooking School, which offers food market tours and multi-day cooking vacations. The School also has apartment rentals.

Bar Kiki: Mirador de San Nicolas, Albaicin, next to Inglesia San Nicolas

Mediterranean Cooking School - tel: 958 201 557 ;
email: info@alhambratravel.com;
www.alhambratravel.com

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