The thing about Granada is that the people are probably the friendliest on the planet. The tapas is great wherever you go, though it pays to keep a weather eye on where the locals are hanging out (but that is the case wherever you go). As I was travelling on a budget the restaurants in that budget were not the Mae West (I once ordered a lemon sorbet and actually got a lemon milkshake, the fresh lemon juice curdling the milk beautifully) but you can live well on the tapas.

A great cheap breakfast is to have tostada e queso (basically cheese on toast) standing at the bar with your coffee. It is always cheaper to stand at the bar.

The sights are things you will remember all your life. The Alhambra set under skies of impossibly deep Andalucian blue are something that have to be witnessed and make your soul sing when you do. Even flying into the airport with the sun sinking behind the Sierra Nevada was a stunning way to start the holiday.

I don't remember one surly, rude or just plain moody person. And I can meet five on a trip to the shops here. I could enthuse about Granada for hours so I will now stop....

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A wonderful unspoiled village high above Orgiva in La Alpujarra, with fantastic views towards the Mediterranean. The village is on the GR7 route, so walking is terrific.

Stay in one of the local rental apartments mentioned below - they're excellent.

www.alpujarraescape.com

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These are cave houses in the old town (Barrio Sacromonte) - a great place to stay practically overlooking the Alhambra.

Friendly staff. Basic but clean, with good showers!

We stayed in a double but I think there are bigger ones available. They also include small kitchen/dining areas for those who want to self-cater.

The old town is great (lots of bars, restaurants, nice squares) but if you want to go into the main town, it's only a short leisurely walk.

www.el-abanico.com/ingles.html

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Although the majority of natural and historic attractions are outside the town Antequera itself is worth a day trip from Granada or Málaga. The Baroque church of El Carmen has a fine exterior and the views from the ruins of the Alcazaba take in the green and lush Sierra de Ronda.

The locals are really friendly and welcome the few tourists who visit their town. There are plenty of hill walks starting from Antequera and leading to El Chorro gorge and the natural park of El Torcal.

Antequera is one of the most authentic country towns of Andalucía with a comforting village atmosphere.

Antequera lies 55km to the north of Málaga on the main rail line to Granada. There are no buses from either Granada or Málaga to Antequera so you have to take the train from either of these cities. The once daily train from Málaga to Granada stops at Antequera, but 7 trains depart daily from Granada to Seville (calling at Antequera) giving you more time to spend in Antequera.

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The last stronghold of the Moors in Iberia, the Alpujarras is an unspoiled region of hilltop villages spilling down from the Sierra Nevada mountains south of Granada. Up here the mule is still an essential form of transport and tapas are still free when you buy a glass of wine in a village bar. Fabulous area for walking and birdwatching.

We stayed in a lovely, newly reformed holiday let with stunning views in Juvíles, one of the highest and prettiest of the villages, about an hour and a half from Granada city.

casasierra.blogspot.com

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View the Alhambra from the plaza beside Granada's Mosque. This is the only place to truly give a feel of what the Alhambra and Granada were like before the massive and extremely ugly building boom got underway some years ago.


The right time of day is at sunset when the Alhambra is tastefully floodlit. Afterwards casually make your way down through the barrio visiting the numerous Flamenco bars.

Numerous tourist buses go to Sacromonte barrio from the centre of Granada.

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An old 15th century grand house with an open courtyard that overlooks the Alhambra which is floodlit at night. There are inward and outward facing rooms. Very atmospheric and within easy walking distrance of the Albaicin area. Has Ac and central heating. Very cosy in Jan this year 2006. Helpful staff.

Dine at El Huerto de Juan Ranas which over looks the alhambra, tapas at bodega castaneda in calle almireceros.

Cuesta De La ictoria 9m 18010 Granda
Tel +34 958 221 100
info@hotelcasamorisca.com

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