The Vias Verdes are "green routes" through Spain. Former railway lines, the gravel tracks are traffic-free and suitable for cycling and walking. They provide a beautiful alternative to on-road cycling, ideal if you have young kids in tow.

Routes are pretty flat or at least nicely graded, even in hilly areas, because they were originally designed for trains. The network is not huge at present but there are plenty of 2-3 day excursions to be enjoyed on the existing Vias. This is a really fun way to explore Spain!

www.viasverdes.es - only in Spanish, I'm afraid, but the map etc. is easy enough to follow and the routes are generally well-signed once you are there

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This fine museum has a large and impressive collection of 5th century BC Iberian sculptures along with horseshoe arches taken from excavated Moorish palaces and houses. There is also a square with a tranquil park across the road from the museum.

29 Paseo de la Estación, Jaén
Entrance is free and the museum is open from 3pm-8pm on a Tuesday and from 9am-8pm between Wednesdays and Saturdays. On Sundays it is open between 9am and 3pm.

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The Baños Arabes are regarded as amongst the finest Moorish hammams in Spain. It feels light and airy because of its horseshoe arches and brickwork ceilings with their famous star-shaped windows. Admittedly it is sometimes hard to appreciate its beauty because of its neglected and ruined appearance in parts, but on the whole it has been wonderfully restored. It's still a good introduction to Moorish social life and architecture.

Palacio de Villardompardo, C/San Andrés, Jaén
The baths are free to visit and are open from 9am-8pm between Tuesdays and Fridays and from 9.30am-2.30pm on Saturdays and Sundays.

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The 17th century Renaissance cathedral in Jaén is the architectural showpiece of the city. It has a dramatic west façade flanked by twin towers. The interior is enormous and has tall Gothic columns supporting an intricately carved vaulted ceiling. The citizens of Jaén are immensely proud of this monument as it was designed by local architect Andrés de Vandelvira. The museum has some well preserved local bishop's clothing and treasured religious artefacts and is worth the 1.80 euro entrance fee.

Plaza San Francisco
The cathedral is free to visit and is open daily from 8.30am-1pm and 5pm-8pm). The museum is open daily from 10am to 1pm.

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