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The Prado, Madrid
Photo: GU

Up all night
“Madrid me mata” ... Madrid kills me. A 1980s slogan that sums up Madrid's exhausting and life-endangering nightlife.

Madrid is a different time zone in more than just the "remember to put your watch forward an hour" sense. The rhythm of life is different and if, like me, you are a stay-up-late-and-let-the-day-drag-on person, then Madrid is your city. Lunch may be eaten at any time between two and four. Dinner is available between nine and midnight (or later). Breakfast (meaning a cafe con leche and a croissant or pastry) can be found in any bar at any time.

If you have children, and you do not mind letting them off the "in-bed-by-seven pm-with-your-teeth-brushed-young-lady" leash, then this is also your city. Restaurants love them. Barmen love them. People love them. Going out, in Madrid, does not mean leaving the smaller members of the family behind (unless you want to).

A Madrileño's social life takes place outside his home - in bars, restaurants and cafes. So joining in is the easiest thing in the world. Spain is said to have 130,000 plus bars. The capital city is doing its bit to keep up the numbers.

Do not come for the architecture. Madrid is not an ancient city. But do look at the art. A stretch of just a few hundred yards along the Paseo del Prado and Recoletos contains three museums - the Prado, the Reina Sofa and the Thyssen. You won't get such a concentration of painting and sculpture - ancient and modern - anywhere else.
Best view
Las Vistillas
On the edge of the Austrias district, the café tables here look out over the Casa de Campo park into the far distance. Order a whole tortilla de patatas for two or more of you.

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Where to watch the world go by
Circulo de Bellas Artes
Take a window seat in the cafeteria of the Circulo de Bellas Artes, the huge cultural centre at the beginning of Calle Alcalá. Look down at the passers-by and traffic madness at one of the city's busiest spots. You'll be charged once at the door and then again for your drink.

Calle Alcalá, 42; Tel: 91 360 54 00; Metro: Banco de Espana; Admission: €1;

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Nighttime hangout
Le Cock
For a bit of arty sophistication, high ceilings, cigarette smoke and some decent cocktails. Gentlemen once met prostitutes here, which, they say, is why the blinds go down as soon as it gets dark (so no one can look in).

Calle Reina, 16; Tel: 91 532 28 26

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Cultural highlight
The Prado Museum
Goya and Velázquez are reason enough.

Paseo del Prado; Tel: +34 91 330 28 00; Closed Monday; Admission: €6; museoprado.mcu.es/

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Bring back
Flamenco CD
Bring back a flamenco CD featuring the late, great Camarön de la Isla.

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Leave there
Bullfighter's hat with the Mickey Mouse ears
You really do not need those.

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Time for love
Casa Pueblo
Nursing an Irish coffee in the small hours of the morning in the old-fashioned (polished bar and wooden tables) surroundings of Casa Pueblo, when the lights go out and they play Singing in The Rain.

Calle León, 3

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Best-kept secret (till now)
Hotel Emperador swimming pool
The swimming pool on the roof of the Hotel Emperador is open to non-guests. It is expensive, but divine, with great views and has its own snack bar.

Gran Vía, 53; Tel: 91 547 28 00; Mon-Fri: €25, Sat-Sun: €35; www.emperadorhotel.com/

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The thing to eat
Chocolate con churros
Cure that hangover by dipping strips of battered dough into thick chocolate.

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Green space
El Retiro park
Don't look at the greenery (there's not much of it in this parched city, except in the spring). Look at the people instead.

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Best ride
Cable car
Use your feet. Madrid isn't that big. Otherwise try the cable car to the Casa de Campo from Calle Pintor Rosales for great views of Madrid (and the M30 ring-road).

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Keep the kids happy
Let the kids stay up late
Scrap their normal bedtime. Let them stay up late, like Spanish kids. Take them to a restaurant at midnight. The waiters will love them and there will be other four to eight year olds running around.

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Escape the crowds
Hide inside a church
If peace is what you want, you've come to the wrong city. Your only hope is to try El Retiro in the early morning or hide inside a church.

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... and the novel to read
Arturo Barea's The Forge
Arturo Barea's The Forge is not a novel, but it takes you to the heart of Madrid in the first half of the 20th century as the author grows up on both the rich and the poor sides of the tracks.

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Where to eat (budget)
Casa Mingo
Eat chicken and cider at Casa Mingo for 16 euros between two.

Paseo de la Florida, 34; Tel: 91 547 79 18; Metro: Principe Pio; www.casamingo.com/

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Where to eat (moderate)
Champaneria Gala
Paella deluxe or fideua (basically a paella with noodles) at the Champaneria Gala on near the Plaza Santa Ana. Book ahead and try to get a table in the conservatory greenhouse area. Great for lunch. Second lunch-time sitting is at 3.45pm at the weekend (really).

Calle Moratin, 22; Tel: 91 429 25 62; Metro: Anton Martin

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Where to eat (posh)
Taberneros
On Calle Santiago, 9, between the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de Oriente. No booking, so get there early. This is Madrid, so early means 8.30pm. Fusion of Mediterranean and Eastern cooking. Ask for the cherry gazpacho.

Calle de Santiago, 9; Tel: 91 5422460

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Where to stay (budget)
Cat's Hostel
At 14-19 euros the night, it is certainly cheap. Morisco style, chill-out, weekly parties and 24 hour opening make this a desireable spot in the centre. Two to 14 beds per room.

Calle Cañizares, 6; Tel: 91 369 28 07; Metro: Anton Martin; www.catshostel.com/

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Where to stay (posh)
Hard Rock Hotel Madrid
Currently being revamped and due to open in the spring of 2006, this boutique hotel is right on the Plaza de Santa Ana. It has traditionally been the bullfighters' hotel, so expect to bump into men in tight trousers and sequins during the season at Las Ventas.

Plaza de Santa Ana, 14; Tel: 91 5314500; Metro: Puerta del Sol; www.hardrock.com/locations/hotels2/madrid/

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Find out what's on
Guía del Ocio
If you speak Spanish, pick up Guía del Ocio (weekly at the kiosks, newsagents or 24-hour stores) or try madrid.lanetro.com/.

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Get there from the airport
Airport transfer: Metro
The Barajas Metro Line (number 8) takes only fifteen minutes to deposit passengers in the centre of Madrid's financial district (Nuevos Ministerios). Taxis are available from the airport, but be sure not to accept offers made inside the terminals.

www.aena.es

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