This Spanish TV series about a family in the late 60s and 70s gives a great idea of how life in Madrid was at that time under Franco. Spaniards agree that all the details, from decor and furniture to footage of actual events, are spot on and a real nostalgia-fest, but the characters of the family themselves are also a real pull. If you speak some Spanish this is well worth watching.

Within Spain you may be able to track the series down in Fnac or the Corte Ingles, otherwise try the internet.

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A museum with fascinating artefacts from every era of Spain's history - starting with prehistory.

Amazing Moorish and Visigoth exhibits. There are reproductions of the famous Altamira cave paintings in a specially constructed grotto outside.

The museum is also right by the Jardines de Descubrimiento with impressive modern fountains and sculptures celebrating Colombus' discovery of the new world. More famously this is where the Giant Flag flies - a Spanish national flag the size of a tennis court.

Just behind Jardines de Descubramiento, to the right.
M. Colon.

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Centro Cultural Conde Duque, on Calle Conde Duque, is a very little known permanent museum, temporary exhibition and concert venue. The 18th-century building is impressive in scale, and the area around is quiet and relaxed. Full of bars, restaurants and some beautiful shops, it is difficult to believe that you are in the centre of town, surrounded by Calle Princesa, San Bernardo etc.

Take a stroll to Plaza Comendadoras for a drink in one of the many "terrazas" while you look at children playing in the playground. On the same plaza there's a "Sauna" (a brothel); opposite you'll see the also impressive building of the Convento de las Comendadoras. The area has the air of a small village about it; it's a mix of bizarre, genuine and unique Madrid.

Zona Conde Duque, nearest tube is San Bernardo or Noviciado

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Beautifully kept and little known ornamental gardens behind the Royal Palace. A total respite from the hustle and bustle outside. Frequented at weekends by swarms of meringue clad brides and their grooms posing for the album in the lush elegant surroundings. When tired of the peace and solitude it is just a stone's throw from the large converted Estación del Norte shopping centre, and when you are sick of that pop straight down to the Goya frescos nearby, right next door to Casa Mingo where you can eat there yummy chicken for lunch washed down with real Asturian cider.

Take the C circular bus or go to Principe Pio metro station. For the frescoes in the chapel where Goya is buried and which he painted himself walk straight down the Paseo de San Antonio de la Florida to the twin chapels of San Antonio - only one has the breathtaking frescoes, recently restored.

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The museum not to miss while in Madrid is the Thyssen-Bornemisza. This private art collection housed right accross from the infinitely more famous Museo del Prado, features paintings from the 16th through the 20th centuries by some of the world's most prominent artists, including Caravaggio, Monet, Degas, Gaugin, Van Gogh, Picasso, O'Keefe and Hopper, among others. The quality an diversity of the collection is uncomparable, yet it is a size that is manageable and won't cause 'museum-fatigue'. So you'll have enough time and energy after your visit to get out and see the rest of what Madrid has to offer!

Paseo del Prado, 8
www.museothyssen.org/Ingles/index.htm

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Goya and Velázquez are reason enough.

Paseo del Prado; Tel: +34 91 330 28 00; Closed Monday; Admission: €6; museoprado.mcu.es/

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I have just done Victory Over The Sun in the San Cristobal de Los Angeles metro station, 15.06.06. This is a club with no dancing, which is a refreshing change from the formulaic local clubs.

For a cover charge of 60 euros you can drink as much Cava as you wish (the bar only serve Cava) and watch/participate in performance art (much blood letting). Live Electronic music was the order of the day, which allowed easy communication between the sexes unlike the Madrid dance clubs.

Many of Madrid’s club elite were in attendance, including many club owners and promoters, which may indicate that change is coming on the scene. Victory Over the Sun is based in Dublin and will not return to Madrid until November 06. I believe that it will trigger a sea change in Madrid’s nightlife that will bring it into the 21st century.

San Cristobal de Los Angeles metro station among other venues;
tel: +44 7901 853 216

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Goya painted the fresco on the dome/ceiling. It is stunning and now restored it looks fresh with brilliant colour. Entry is free.

Metro Principe Pio at Station Norte. Walk down Florida past aprtments on right,shops on left to cross roads. At the moment massive construction works are blighting the area, walk back by the river path or back along Florida to stop at Horno Antonio for excellent coffee and pastry with the locals.

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Alcalá de Henares, a city just a short, and cheap, rail ride from Atocha on the local train ("cercanias"), is well worth a visit. You will find few tourists, the ancient university, the archbishop's palace, the "cradle" of Cervantes, the Cistercian Monastery of St Bernardo, and more storks on the roof tops than the average maternity hospital! Lots of good bars and restaurants and much less pricey than central Madrid.

If you speak spanish, www.guiarte.com/alcaladehenares/

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Take a window seat in the cafeteria of the Circulo de Bellas Artes, the huge cultural centre at the beginning of Calle Alcalá. Look down at the passers-by and traffic madness at one of the city's busiest spots. You'll be charged once at the door and then again for your drink.

Calle Alcalá, 42; Tel: 91 360 54 00; Metro: Banco de Espana; Admission: €1;
www.circulobellasartes.com/

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