Currently being revamped and due to open in the spring of 2006, this boutique hotel is right on the Plaza de Santa Ana. It has traditionally been the bullfighters' hotel, so expect to bump into men in tight trousers and sequins during the season at Las Ventas.

Plaza de Santa Ana, 14; Tel: 91 5314500; Metro: Puerta del Sol; www.hardrock.com/locations/hotels2/madrid/

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On Calle Santiago, 9, between the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de Oriente. No booking, so get there early. This is Madrid, so early means 8.30pm. Fusion of Mediterranean and Eastern cooking. Ask for the cherry gazpacho.

Calle de Santiago, 9; Tel: 91 5422460

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Experimental cooking in a basement near the big parks. Take a dictionary, and try the chilli chocolate cake and the acorn bread. Expensive, but worth it, particularly as you won't spend much if you stick to tapas on every other night.

Calle Juan de Mena, 14, 28014 Madrid; tel: 91523 44 78 or 91531 10 39; www.restauranteviridiana.com/

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