Best paella I have ever had in Madrid. They bring the ingredients every day from the coast and the seafood is fantastic.
The rice needs to be shared (it's for two people and the shellfish paella is about £17/person), if you order a paella they will bring to the table the paella special pan and they will serve you directly from the pan.
The restaurant is located in Huertas street, a beautiful area to walk around and discover the history of Madrid.
Calle de Las Huertas, 15, 28012 Madrid, Spain
+34 914 29 50 44
Google map: bit.ly/1akw9HF
* Esther is our Been there local for Madrid. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/madrid-local-esther-almena.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/madridsensations.jsp
This book fair is very popular among madrileños. The location, in the Retiro Park, is excellent and the atmosphere is perfect for a day with the kids.
In the stalls 203 and 204 you can buy books about Madrid (art, history, old photographies etc) some of them also in English, like the "Illustrated Atlas of the History of Madrid".
Amazing views of the city, for just 3€. You can see almost everything, go at the end of your day and try to spot all the places you have visit, it's so much fun!
Calle de Alcalá, 42, 28014 Madrid, Spain
+34 913 60 54 00
Google map: bit.ly/12NOzec
DON'T whatever you do decide to walk from the coach station or the train station up into Toledo. From the train station there is an easily found bus stop; from the bus station there isn't. When you get off the bus or the train find the taxi rank asap. Ask the driver for Plaza Zocodover. At the station the rank is directly outside; at the bus station it is up the moving stairs, left though glass door, immediately right and keep straight on to the edge of the building. There are not all that many taxis. I say this because the walk up the hill to the city, especially in summer, is awful and when you get to the top is the time to start exploring. You can always walk back down! Cost of taxi 6€ - well worth it! (2013)
Tune in to to the animated chit-chat of day-tripping Madrillenos for an hour or so while you ride the local C8 train from Achota or Chamartin stations to the idyllic Sierra region of Cercedilla, an ideal spot for a couple of hours walk away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Madrid.
You can either walk the 3km from the station to Desehenas, where the trails start or take a bus (every 75 mins or so). I'd recommend the bus as it's an uphill walk along a pretty unattractive main road and you'll want to save your legs for the climb ahead.
There's an excellent information centre where you can get a map that shows you the three or four trails you can follow, depending on how far you want to walk and what kind of challenge you're up for. You don't really need the map because these are some of the best marked routes you'll find in Europe. So long as you can see 30 yards ahead of you all you have to do is follow the circles painted on the trees and you won't go wrong.
These routes take you through some of Spain's most spectacular views of the snow brushed mountains, along shady forest paths that open up on splendid views down the valleys below. Breathtaking in every sense.
Where to start? There are so many exciting and beautiful places to visit within easy travelling distance of Madrid, but I would recommend the World Heritage Site of El Escorial, about 40 minutes by the regular (and cheap) suburban train service from Chamartin station, and site of the vast former palace of the kings of Spain, which contains also a monastery and the magnificent Basilica of San Lorenzo. Guided tours, at around 7€, are well worth it. The magnificence of the state rooms, and especially the opulence of the vast library, are not to be missed, and make El Escorial a visit of prime importance in central Spain. As if that were not enough, close by is the Valle de los Caidos (Valley of the Fallen), the basilica carved into a rocky hillside and built by Franco as a tribute to all those who lost their lives in Spain’s disastrous civil war. Here again, one marvels at the sheer magnitude of the site, which is on the huge scale of the foolishness which it commemorates. To complete a tour of the unforgettable delights of this corner of Madrid’s environs, the city of Segovia – another World Heritage Site – is not to be missed, with its amazing Roman aqueduct at least on the scale of the Pont du Gard and its charming old town dominated by a magnificent cathedral and topped off by its clifftop chateau.
Take the train from Atocha station, Madrid, to El Escorial.
Google map: bit.ly/Yw9vnB
A visit to these sites will provide a day of contrasts. In San Lorenzo de El Escorial is the monastery/palace created by Philip II as the last resting place of his parents, Charles I of Spain (Holy Roman Emperor Charles V) and Isabella of Portugal. Now the mausoleum holds the remains of all but two Spanish kings, their wives, children and near relatives. Enjoy the views of the Sierra de Guadarrama and visit the library, the Hall of Battles, the Art Gallery, the domestic apartments and the gardens. Of particular interest is the royal bedroom, with its window onto the high altar of the Basilica so that Philip could observe mass from his sick bed.
Six miles from El Escorial is the Valle de los Caidos (The Valley of the Fallen). The National Park holds the remains of 40,000 Spaniards who died in the Civil War (1936-39). The basilica built on General Franco’s orders between 1940 and 1959 is in the grandiose style so typical of 20th century totalitarian regimes. The vast cathedral tunnelled into the mountainside, with a 150m. cross above, serves as the tomb for the dictator and José Antonio Primo de Rivera, the founder of the Spanish Falange party, executed by the Republicans in 1936. It remains controversial, with disputes over the working conditions and the number of Franco’s prisoners of war who died during its construction, as well as the location of Franco's tomb. The Basilica was closed in 2009 by the socialist government, only to be reopened in 2012 by the current conservative Popular Party government. A visit will give you plenty to think about.
Both are about 50 kms from Madrid. A suburban rail line from Atocha station or the 664 from Moncloa bus station both take about an hour to reach El Escorial, though the bus drops you much closer to the monastery. Public transport to The Valley of the Fallen is more difficult. Buses leave from El Escorial but often leave you with a long walk to the monument. Check before you travel. Organised guided tours are available and may ease travel issues.
Google map: bit.ly/Yw9vnB
Start early and take a 30 minute train journey to Segovia for a day bursting with history. The first view of the vast Roman aqueduct, built with 25,000 granite blocks with no mortar, is breathtaking. The Alcazar with its towers, throne room and Hall of Kings, has a superb location and views to match; no wonder it became a favourite residence of Castilian monarchs. Visit the cathedral, other fine churches, the Jewish quarter, or just explore the streets to soak up the medieval atmosphere and take in a museum. Don't ignore the temptation to have a drink/tapas in a bar or enjoy a meal in one of the restaurants serving regional specialities, such as suckling pig.
AVANT train: Madrid - Segovia, 12.50 Euros.
Google map: Google map: bit.ly/XMhZMe
The Romans knew a thing or two about locating cities and never more than in selecting the most specular site in Spain for Segovia.
Getting there is simple, a quick journey on Madrid’s excellent metro, a late breakfast at Chamartin station and take a frequent train to Segovia.
A short bus ride takes you to the foot of the Roman aqueduct which was still in use until the end of the 19th century. A short walk through the walled city gates will take you past the 16th century city cathedral and on to the fairy tale Alcazar. Swallow your disbelief for the 19th century reconstruction and take in the amazing view.
This still leaves plenty of time to dawdle on the way back, be awed by the aqueduct again and get back to Madrid in time for a gentle stroll to decide on tapas venues.
Google map: Google map: bit.ly/XMhZMe
Manzanares el Real is a village located 50km to the north of Madrid by the Pedriza protected park, amid a stunning landscape. The village has lots to see including the Mendoza Castle, one of the best preserved medieval fortresses in Spain. You will also enjoy the old castle ruins (Castillo Viejo), the Cañada Real Bridge, the church of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, founded in the early 14th century and the first paper factory in Spain.
Manzanares el Real offers a wide variety of local cuisine and leisure activities such as Medieval Weekends, a Tapas Fair and all the annual local festivities.
Bus No.724 from Plaza de Castilla (50 minutes journey approx)
The castle is open from October to May (10am to 17pm) and from June to September (10am to 18pm). Mondays closed.
Google map: bit.ly/ZxKlUV
Easy 50 minute bus ride from Madrid. Go to see the unique cobbled Plaza Mayor with its whitewashed houses and wooden balconies then stroll through the narrow streets perhaps up to the Iglesia de la Asuncion to see a Goya painting. Or else sit under the arches of the plaza and enjoy a glass of anis in its ancestral home, before lunch in one of the many restaurants. Recommended are the Meson Cuevas de Vino with its own bodega or the more reasonably priced Meson del Duende. There is also a very attractive parador nearby housed in a sixteenth century monastery with a good restaurant.
Chinchon. 30 miles south east of Madrid. Easily accessible by bus. Frequent and regular service.
Google map: bit.ly/12j9JCW
With its fairy tale castle and abundant historic churches the small town of Segovia is a pleasant day trip from Madrid. The real star of the show however is the world's largest and best-preserved Roman aqueduct towering over the town centre. With typical Spanish nonchalance there is very little fanfare just an incredible sense of history as you admire this amazing ancient structure nestling cheek-by-jowl next to unassuming cafe bars. A word of warning. The mountain setting is beautiful in the winter but beware the biting cold wind.
Google map: bit.ly/XMhZMe
An enjoyable day trip from Madrid famous for it's monastery. Walk past the monastery and into the park beyond, stopping to buy a 'limon granizado' from the mobile refreshment cart on the way. Keep walking and go up the mountain towards 'La Silla de Filipe 11'. Fantastic views of the monastery and surrounding countryside. You'll hear cuckoos and woodpeckers. There's a cafe at the top for cold drinks.
Take the bus, 661 or 664, stand 11 from the bus station at Moncloa. An enjoyable ride that takes about 50 mins and costs €4.20
Google map: bit.ly/YrpinI
Just an hour's drive north-west of Madrid is the ancient city of Segovia, which stands proudly beneath its splendid cathedral. Nestled under the city's imposing roman aqueduct sits Meson de Candido, a family owned restaurant attracting food-lovers from far afield. Upon the recommendation of our local friends we dined, like everybody else that afternoon, or so it seemed, on the house's speciality, "cochinillo" or roast whole suckling pig. The waiters and chefs alike are proud of this dish, and so they should be. Cooked in vast, traditional ovens (ask nicely and you may get treated to a tour of the kitchen, as we did), the pork is a delight. Start with Granja, a local white bean soup, and savour the surprise "sorpresa" pudding, a gorgeous cakey, eggy, ice-creamy affair. If you're in Madrid and have a spare day, then Segovia is a glorious city of romance that you must visit, especially in late summer: potter, enjoy the sun and most importantly, make the most of what Meson de Candido has to offer. You won't regret it! Food and wine all in for around 35 euros.
A day trip to Alcala de Henares. An alternative to religious Spain but with plenty of culture and history. It is both the birthplace to Spain's Shakespeare (Cervantes) and home to one of Europe's oldest universities. South of the station is the interesting old town with a couple of museums dedicated to Cervantes, the charming University of Alcala and the oldest surviving theatre in Europe, recently renovated. It is very well served by rail from Atocha (every 15 minutes or so) and is close enough to round off a trip to Alcala de Henares by returning to Atocha and heading in to the Retiro Park for a relaxing drink and tapas alfresco in one of the many outdoor cafes. While perhaps not as pretty as Segovia it is more manageable and interesting.
Alcala de Henares is about 30 km west from Madrid. Nearest train station - Alcala de Henares
Google map: bit.ly/16Xmcxi
I lived in Madrid for three years and frequently took family and friends to visit Toledo, Segovia and El Escorial. All three are rightly popular but if you want to escape the tourist crowds head to Avila on a week day. A beautiful walled city, with nesting storks and an imposing cathedral. It takes about an hour and half to reach but the views from the train make it a picturesque journey. Once there Avila is replete with cute bars and restaurants serving the delicious local speciality cordero asado (roast lamb, Spanish style). Sip a vino tinto in the Plaza Victoria after seeing the sights - the convent of Santa Teresa and the Romanesque cathedral. You can also walk round part of the city's walls which offer views far beyond the city.
Get the train from Chamartin in Madrid to Avila then jump on a local bus, ten minutes into the centre.
Google map: bit.ly/135ObbZ
This town, 45km from Madrid, is recognizable in the distance by its houses clustered together on hilltops. Chinchón has much to offer for a day out and lots of sightseeing.
Chinchón has a beautiful medieval square formed by houses of two and three floors with running balconies, which has been the scene of a great many events, presentations and even movies. The square turns into a bullring during the town fiestas. It hosts nice mesones where you can taste typical tapas including “Chorizo al Infierno” (grilled chorizo).
As well as its characteristic Plaza Mayor, with its wooden balconies and flat galleries, you should also visit the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (1534-1626), which was sacked and burned by Napoleonic troops in 1808 and which hosts the magnificent painting of La Asunción de la Virgen, painted by Goya (Goya’s brother was a priest in this church). The old Convent of the Augustine nuns (from the 18th Century) has a beautiful cloister and has now been turned into a Parador where you can go for lunch or dinner or even stay the night.
Other buildings of interest are: the convent of the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare, from the 17th century; the clock tower, belonging to the old parish church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia and the remains of a 15th century castle, rebuilt between 1590 and 1598 by the third Count of Chinchón and also burned in 1808 by Napoleonic forces.
The Train de la Fresa (Strawberry Train) is a historical, cultural and gastronomic route between Madrid and Aranjuez which runs from the end of June until mid- July and from the 1st of September until the end of October. This journey, which started in 1851, transports you to an old age of train travel on an early 20th Century coal engine train trough scenic countryside. Ideal for families or for an interesting day out to Aranjuez.
It leaves from the Museo del Ferrocarril (Train Museum) at Atocha Station (Paseo de las Delicias 61) and takes about an hour to arrive into Aranjuez. During the trip, stewardesses dressed in period costume go round the train distributing boxes of strawberries for passengers to taste. The views from the train are of the beautiful countryside outside Madrid. Travellers are then taken by coach to Aranjuez for a guided visit to the Royal Palace, its beautiful gardens and the Museo de Faluas. Travellers can choose to remain in Aranjuez and return back to Madrid on a normal service train using the same ticket.
Aranjuez has many interesting sights, including the Royal Palace with its Royal gardens and the "Casita del Labrador" (Farmer’s House) a Royal pavilion built by King Charles IV.
Tren de la Fresa (return) tickets are around €29 for adults and €21 for children between 4 and 12 years old. Children under 4 years old travel free if they sit on their parents’ lap. The ticket includes the free guided tour of the palace and museum.
Controversial but astonishing underground basilica set at the end of a breathtakingly peaceful valley of pine trees. Originally conceived as a memorial to those who died in the civil war this huge edifice houses General Franco's remains. Built with the conscripted labour of political prisoners this is an uncomfortable but awe-inspiring and unforgettable experience. Combine it with a trip to the altogether more mainstream royal palace at El Escorial about 10 miles to the south.
About 50km NW of Madrid off the AP6 motorway just south of Guadarrama.
Google map: bit.ly/10WxVZ3
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