A great restaurant chain for tapas and larger raciones. They don't do just ham, as the name might suggest, but all sorts of food. Calamares, Tortilla and gambas al ajillo are excellent. Prices are very reasonable. You can eat at the counter or in the salon (waiter service is a little dearer). They have restaurants in Puerta del Sol and on the Gran Via. They also do excellent three-course menu for under 10 Euro.

La Puerta Del Sol
or La Gran Via

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This tiny and historic tiled bar in a sidestreet near Sol serves up sensational cod croquettes and battered fish pieces fresh from the fryer, as light and fluffy as deep-fried cloud.

Wash them down with glasses of house wine if you can get to the bar. A Madrid institution.

Calle Tetuán, 12
www.casalabra.es

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There are plenty of sidrerias (cider bars) in Madrid, but this one in the gay-friendly Chueca district is a huge stand-out for the quality and, especially, the quantity of the complimentary tapas. 1.50 a 'caña' isn't cheap, but you'll get a steaming pile of piggy, bready delights along with it, and that's every time you take a drink.

Also a great place for vast filled 'bocadillos' (baguette sandwiches), and various other tasty 'raciones'. Just watch out for complimentary paella - myself and others have been laid low by food poisoning for some time after a visit. The fact that I'm still recommending the place tells you just how good it is.

One final thing - get there early if you have any kind of designs on a table.

c/ Infantas, metro Chueca

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A traditional tapas bar in a funny old corner shop.They serve good ham and gulas (funny little eels). It's a cool place to visit because it is on the edge of the red light district and run by a very camp couple. They serve drinks, bitch with customers and chase out drunks and undesirables whilst neatly arranging your ham and goats cheese tapas. We felt welcomed and entertained. Check out the wig shop down the road.

Calle Hortaleza, Chueca

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Near to the Paseo del Prado there are narrow streets with lots of bars and tapas bars. This one was fab. It is full of groups of young people. The decor is scruffy-glass beads dangling in the window, green splodges on the walls and menus on pretend paint palettes. It says "pulperia" on the window and octopus is definitely the best thing to choose. We also had razor clams and green chillies. The service was really friendly and the wine was cheap and good. It didn't seem super happening at 1 on a Sunday morning, but a great place to chill out.

Calle Jesus, Centro

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Wonderful wine and tapas bar that is small enough to get to know the owners well and who may even treat you to a glass of cava gratis! The tapas are amazing and the design of the bar is intimate yet light and airy unlike many tapas bars. Very reasonably priced (for a student!).

Chueca, Calle Pelayo 24
Metro: Chueca. Turn left off Plaza Chueca and Pelayo runs parallel.
Tel:+34 915228441

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Fantastic tapas - a great place to watch the world go by. I go there every time I visit!

metro - sol - plaza santa ana

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James Fraser or Will Leonard will take you on a tour of out-of-the way and non-tourist tapas bars. We had a fantastic Saturday night. Six of us were on the tour. We had Andalusian cider, Sherry, some amazing liquors and great tapas, including several varieties of chorizo, beef tapas and splendid octopus. After James left us (at yet another bar), we finally ended up at Chocolateria San Gines to prevent the hangover. The chocolate and churros is superb. For some it will be expensive, but we 'oldies' would still recommend the experience. And, no, we are not their agents!

www.adventurousappetites.com (James Fraser/Will Leonard) 00 34 639 331073

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