People pass through Malaga, but do they know that it has two fabulous museums, an impressive cathedral, an Arab fortress and palace as good as any outside Granada, clear blue seas and miles of sandy beaches lined with chiringuitos serving fresh sardines. And in this top spot the top street is Calle Granada, running crookedly from the Plaza del Independencia to the Plaza de la Merced. It is where the Malaguenos go, especially at night, to visit their favourite tapas bars. There are many, but chief among them are La Campana - tiny, crowded and noisy - which serves superb fresh fish at knock-down prices; Piyayo, across the road, more up-market with seats outside; and the renowned El Pimpi, a vast rambling place full of different sized rooms, full of Spanish character and Spanish people. Try them all.

La Campana
Calle Granada nº35, 29015 Malaga, Spain
+34 952 219 202
Google map: bit.ly/l47dDm

Piyayo
Calle Granada 36, Malaga, Spain
+34 952 220 096
Google map: bit.ly/kz1yug

El Pimpi
Calle Granada, 62, 29015 Malaga, Spain
+34 952 228 990
Google map: bit.ly/lMOrco

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Having left behind the red hills and olive groves of rural Andalucia where the only sound was the deep dong of sheep bells across the valley, the prospect of an eight hour wait for my plane in Malaga was not appealing. I thought "concrete, high rise, tourist capital of the Costa del Sol." So imagine the delight of finding the old town centre – a maze of narrow streets with traditional tall houses covered in roses and wisteria reaching to the sky. After a delightful few hours in the Picasso Museum, it was time for a drink and some tapas. Wandering around the alleyways I was intrigued to find an entrance to a Tapas Bar up a steep flight of steps. At the top of the steps huge wrought iron gates opened on to a white painted courtyard where hundreds of blue flower pots strewn with ferns and creeping plants hung on the walls. A sculptural antique sink provided a focus. The tapas menu was typical – I had ‘Tostas Pimpi’ – a satisfying array of salt cod, jamon, egg, olives, salmon and anchovies on little pieces of toast. I ate and drank watching the (mostly Spanish) people from my spot in front of a pile of huge wine barrels. Well satisfied, spiritually as well as having a full tummy, I walked about 10 minutes through the passages out on to the busy main street to my bus which took me to the airport.

62 y Jardines de Alcazabilla
With the Picasso Museum on your right, walk to the next alleyway and turn right - the bar is on the right.

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