At the charming Hotel Atalaya in Mundaka, Basque Country, you can open the shutters, step onto your balcony and people watch over the harbour. If you prefer sand there’s a beach at nearby Lekeitio where happy dogs lift their legs on the “no dogs” sign. Place names are a series of randomly jammed typewriter keys: try saying – and definitely visiting - Gaztelugatxe, a tiny island with a narrow winding causeway, twinkling at night with fairy lights. For day trips there’s Guernica, immortalised by Picasso, with its “Junta” headquarters museum where I cricked my neck admiring the stained glass ceilings; and my favourite, the eerie but entrancing painted forest at Oma.
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